Taper crimp die.
- Thread starter Jack B.
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anothernewb
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Yes. Redding makes them. maybe others too. I used to have one, but sold it when I went to a progressive press. Dillon's 38/357 dies work with plated bullets well.
Thanks
.38s and (especially) .357s need to be roll crimped to keep the bullets from being pulled out with recoil, worst case being they come so far out that they tie up the cylinder.
9mm headspaces off the rim, so they need to be taper crimped, with enough mouth edge left to catch the ridge at the front of the chamber.
9mm headspaces off the rim, so they need to be taper crimped, with enough mouth edge left to catch the ridge at the front of the chamber.
The reason I ask. I'm thinking about using plated bullets with no cannelure for 38 special light plinking loads.
i use the lee taper crimp die for berrys in a j frame and they are pretty stout loads too and no issues with setback. as far as the plated goes i had a fcd for (9mm extreme 124gr) setup per directions with maybe a turn outwards and when i pulled about 40 of them a lot of them had cut marks where it was cutting into the plating. i would assume the roll crimp would cut into them as well.
check midway for the lee taper die as i got one on sale for like $12.
beag_nut
Member
To the OP: Why would you want a taper crimp die, when the proper crimp is a roll crimp???
anothernewb
Member
plated bullets will strip the coating if a roll crimp is used. Necessitating the use of a taper crimp die. Setback is generally not an issue as they are generally target velocity rounds. Although I have loaded many a heavy plated bullet over 16 grains of 296 and had narry an issue..
Sunray
Member
A 9mm taper crimp die will be too short. Everybody and his brother makes a .38/.357 taper crimp/seating die. RCBS' runs $20.99 at Midway.
Lee's is a taper crimp only die. $13.99 at Midway. Redding's is crimp only too. $28.49.
Shop around.
Lee's is a taper crimp only die. $13.99 at Midway. Redding's is crimp only too. $28.49.
Shop around.
Yes, there are three or more options in a taper crimp die for .38 Spl/.357 Mag. RCBS/Lee/Redding. C&H(?)
A 9MM would work unless it runs out of threads, so, dunno.
I use a light to medium taper crimp on light to medium plated bullet loads in .38 and .357 cases. Works great.
A 9MM would work unless it runs out of threads, so, dunno.
I use a light to medium taper crimp on light to medium plated bullet loads in .38 and .357 cases. Works great.
The reason I ask. I'm thinking about using plated bullets with no cannelure for 38 special light plinking loads.
I seat and (roll) crimp on separate stations, with no stripping of the coating. Narry an issue on five hole Blue.
ymmv
There is really no reason for a taper crimp. You can use the standard roll crimp and just do not over apply it. You will form a slight cannelure in the plating but not brake it.
Try a few and then pull the bullet you will see.
Cannibul
Member
I have to wonder how hard it would be to go to say Midway and see if there are any taper crimp dies?
Why TC the .38 spl? I do it on all my flush seated wadcutters.
I'm also moving to the Redding profile crimp die for heavier loads. It provides an excellent crimp and works the case mouth a bit less.
Why TC the .38 spl? I do it on all my flush seated wadcutters.
I'm also moving to the Redding profile crimp die for heavier loads. It provides an excellent crimp and works the case mouth a bit less.
USSR
Member
I have the Lyman .38/.357 taper crimp die that I use to load hollowbase wadcutters. Works well.
Don
beag_nut
Member
Wrong. The plating will not be stripped if one uses the proper amount of roll crimp. I use Berry's plated bullets all the time and they never have their plating stripped.
A roll crimp is a lot touchier to do with plated than a taper crimp where there is a lot more "wiggle" room. With a roll crimp the cases need to be all the same length and the roll crimp adjusted just exactly right.
Getting a taper crimp die and doing it that way is a lot better IMHO.
Getting a taper crimp die and doing it that way is a lot better IMHO.
DaveTNC
Member
Been reloading for less than a year and I've been looking at the Lee Taper Crimp Die for 38 Special for use with plated bullets, too. But I'm a little confused by the statement on Lee's web site that says
"Lee 38SPL Taper Crimp Die, overcomes crimp problems caused by poor die design. Offers little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp."
I think this may just be some boilerplate language that doesn't apply to this particular die, but I'm not sure. My understanding is that the standard seating/crimping die included in the 38 Special die set is a roll crimp, so this die is truly a taper crimp die for 38 Special, and is different from the one that came in my set, correct?
Thanks,
Dave
"Lee 38SPL Taper Crimp Die, overcomes crimp problems caused by poor die design. Offers little or no advantage when used with 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already a modified taper crimp."
I think this may just be some boilerplate language that doesn't apply to this particular die, but I'm not sure. My understanding is that the standard seating/crimping die included in the 38 Special die set is a roll crimp, so this die is truly a taper crimp die for 38 Special, and is different from the one that came in my set, correct?
Thanks,
Dave
Yes, a taper crimp only die vs the standard seater/crimper in the .38 Spl die set which has a roll crimp built into it.
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