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Taper crimp vs roll crimp for 44's

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Roll crimp is for bullets with a canullar or crimp groove, usually for revolvers. Tapper crimp for auto ammo.:)
 
Revolvers need crimping to keep bullets from moving forward during recoil and a roll crimp is better for that. Autos use taper crimps since most headspace on the case mouth. The only way I'd taper crimp a revolver load would be for very light loads and I'm not sure it'd be better even in that case.
 
And, I put a slight roll crimp (not much) on my .45ACP and it works fine. Of course, the lead bullets have lube grooves to crimp into and the Speer bullets I've been using have a cannelure.

If you roll crimp an auto too much, it won't properly head space, so you can't get carried away. I taper crimp all my 9mms.
 
How do you know if you're getting a roll or a taper crimp? Or are all the dies made so you are getting the proper crimp with that certain die?
 
MCgunner> quote "I put a slight roll crimp (not much) on my .45ACP and it works fine"
I used to know a lot of older guys that used a roll crimp die on .45ACP loads, just pushin the case in tight against the bullet. In fact at one time you could order RCBS dies either type of crimp die.
Although I use a roll crimp on all SWC bulles, I use the Lee Taper crimp die on .45 Colt loads with the LRNFP over 8.5 grs of either Unique or Universal Clays and it works fine. I do sit on it a bit. Don't see why it wouldn't work on cowboy or other light loads in the .44s with the same style bullet from 850 to up to close to 1000 fps. Supposed to be a bit easier on the brass. I got the idea from I think it was Dick Metcalf but not sure in one of the gun rag articles.
 
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I'm loading up 44 mags for my Marlin. I just got some Laser-cast round nose and I'm having a problem with the roll crimp. To get the proper LOA I can't seat the bullet all the way down to the crimp groove. I use the RCBS dies which seats the bullet and crimps with the same die. After adjusting the seat depth I turn back a few turns on the seating adjustment then screw in the die a bit more to get the proper crimp. When I crimp the round it shoves the bullet in deeper.
So I tried seating the bullet a little shallower to adjust for the bullet getting shoved down a bit with the crimp. This appeared to work....or so I thought. Once I had achieved proper crimp and LOL I adjusted the seater back down on the now properly crimped and sized round. I loaded in a round to seat and crimp, the round crumpled. ARGH!

Should I get a set of Dillon dies that taper crimp and solve this problem?
 
HC: It goes a bit beyond roll crimp is for revolvers, taper crimp is for autoloading cartridges. REDDING makes the profile crimp die and it does both. A roll crimp is needed for heavy loads for bullet "pull", but many who load light target loads prefer a taper crimp and some who use cast bullets for light loads: no crimp at all. As the roll crimp is applied the brass is being displaced outward to the dimension allowable by the seating die. Taper crimping helps ensure concentric tension which roll crimping does not do as well since there is no/little taper in a seating die designed for roll crimping only. REDDING recognized this and created a die that gives you the best of both worlds. They cost a tad more, but for someone wanting the best possible accuracy for full magnum loads, there is proof in the pudding. Wiley Clapp did a test several years ago because he was a bit suspicious. Today, he and a good many others that do reloading articles for magnum revolvers will tell you their rounds were crimped with a REDDING Profile Crimp Die. Especially where extreme accuracy is the goal!;)
 
I've used a taper crimp die for my 45 Schofield because the seater/crimp die ran out of adjustment so I improvised and used a 45acp taper crimp die. I use a profile crimp on my 357 mag,44 mag 45 Colt,40/65 win and 45/70 Taper crimp on 9mm,40 S&W and 45 acp. The roll crimp will keep bullets from being forced into cases in a lever action rifle
 
For my hot .357 mag loads w/ 180 grainer's I use a heavy roll crimp and clean it up with the sizing die minus the primer punch. This would be for bullets w/canalure.
 
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