Taper vs Roll Crimp in .357mag & .38spl

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roo_ster

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Howdy:

I just stumbled across & bought a .38/.357 Lee taper crimp die.

Anybody use such in their revo reloads?

Will it hold hot .357mag loads (158gr LSWC & 2400 @ 1400fps) or let them pull out the case & tie up the cylander?
 
I have never had any problems with either...A properly applied crimp of any kind will hold the bullet in place. That means that all cases are within +/- .002 of each other for the best results...

And here come the ones that NEVER trim .357 magnum...:D
 
That cartridge is designed to headspace on...

the rim. Either crimp will work but most crimp groves in the bullets work best with a roll crimp.....chris3
 
You nornally use a taper crimp for pistol rounds w/o a crimping groove(cannelure) and a roll crimp on a revolver round with a cannelure. The idea is to roll the case mouth into the crimping groove to prevent bullet movement in recoil. As the others have said you may use style to crimp revolver rounds. Just make sure they are heavy and check the first several rounds to make sure they don't jump their crimp. You may roll crimp directly into the bullet; just be careful you don't over do it the crimp and tear the bullet jacket.
 
In my reloading I've found a taper crimp works fine on a round nose bullet, RNFP or a SWC with a narrow front driving band but the SWCs with a wide front band have to be roll crimped because the taper crimp die hangs on the driving band. My only experience is with Lee dies though.
 
Roll, Roll, Roll your crimp. Now having said that, since it is what is strongly recommended, I have swapped over to the Lee factory crimp die for most of my crimps. Works great on jacketed as well as lead bullets.
 
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