Terrible flame cutting problem

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Busterbugs

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43C8246B-D93F-4475-BB92-93187FFEB5E5.jpeg E308956C-B925-49D9-A17D-4AFE221F04B3.jpeg 8EF1E4F8-888E-43D0-A22C-59A4589C1145.png 93D370FF-0F41-4E95-8C10-9C40B2913208.jpeg Hello first post here,
I noticed this flame cutting on the top strap of my uberti cattleman 45 colt and it seems pretty bad,
All the other pictures I can find of it online seem to show a neat little line lightly “sandblasted” across the top strap, nothing like this yawning chasm. I read that it is self limiting and will cut to a certain point then stop, just wondering if anyone has seen one this bad, and showing no signs of stopping, Will this continue to wear?

The gun I bought new 6 months ago and have shot about 300 smokeless cowboy loads and around 800 black powder loads.
My black powder loads are around 35 grains goex or 33 grains swiss with a 250 grain big lube bullet or lyman #454190 45 bullet sized to .452 and lubed with spg.

My best measurement puts the depth of the flame cut at .035
Cylinder gap is .002 with the cylinder pushed all the way forward and .004 pushed rearward. Also you can see in one picture the cylinder gap does appear to be noticeably wider at the top. It is like the cylinder pin holes were drilled at an angle because it lines up good side to side. I have not modified the cylinder or gap with any shims or anything.

I realize there may be no solution other than sending it back to uberti, I just don’t want them to send back a different new gun because other than the flame cutting this gun shoots like a dream, dead on accurate, perfect timing, crisp feeling action and superb trigger pull, it would be a shame for this to be the fatal flaw, since I have put money into a new hammer without a “safety” new trigger, and timing it just right.
Although if this is a bent frame that may be the only answer.
I don’t want to water down my loads with cream of wheat filler or any of that, already dialed them back a hair but still I like a full case of powder and should be able to shoot them that way for years without issue as many others do.

Just sharing my problem and wondering if anyone had seen it this bad before, keep in mind this is just over 1000 rounds.

Is there a good gunsmith that could fix this so I don’t have to risk getting a different gun back from uberti? Maybe the “fix my gun” option from VTI gun parts where they fix it for a flat fee of $250? I like this gun and would like to shoot it for many more years.
Thank you.
 
It’s there and your concerned enough to take a decent picture and post, so I suspect it is going to eat at you knowing that it’s there. I see 2 options... send it back, or get a dovetailed slot cut to put in a sacrificial piece. It’s a new gun, with no sentimental value, so my suggestion is to send it back. Seems to be questionable metallurgy, so the slot would remove additional material making it more questionable. Then of course there is he option of leaving it alone, but I expect the knowledge of the issue to bother you and ruin an otherwise enjoyable experience.
 
Yes I suppose it would be best to send it back, with as deep as it’s gotten it seems like it could eat into the metal more and become a bigger problem. Thanks for the replies
 
Im pretty sure that most all revolvers show a bit of flame cutting eventually. If it was mine I would continue to shoot it as long as it didn't get out of control and become unsafe. Your cylinder gap sounds ok so other than returning it to the factory you probably don't have many options.
Welcome to THR. Lots of good people here and a vast wealth of knowledge. Best gun forum on the net.
 
I suggest you open the b/c. I have shot black powder and smokeless powder 45 Colt loads in Ruger Vaqueros for many years in CAS and Cowboy Mounted Shooting. I had a gunsmith open the b/c to .008”. I believe the wider gap reduces flame cutting. It certainly improves reliability as the gun gets dirty.

I think the b/c gap on most revolvers is too tight. For reference the thickness of a average sheet of paper is .003”. A business card is about .008”.
 
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This does not appear to me to be significant flame cutting. Some revolvers come from the factory with relief cuts much deeper than what appears in the photos. Realize that as flame cutting progresses it slows significantly since the distance to the bottom of the cut increases, reducing flame velocity and temperature. $250!! Watch it, but don’t worry about it.

Flame cutting depends on pressure and temperature. My .45 LCs show little if any cutting, my .357s showed much more.



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Ok I was on the fence about returning it for this one problem with the rest of the gun being so good. I will see how it looks after another 1000 rounds, if it is not much different I’ll just not worry about it. And thanks for the info about the cylinder gap I’ll look into opening that up a hair, and making it even all the way around, I think the way it is closed up at the bottom is directing all that hot gas at the top strap making it cut worse than usual.
Glad I decided to post on here I have been reading here a lot the last few months as I get more into shooting and reloading with these cowboy guns.
 
The title of your thread tells it all. You have a discomfort level with that situation ; I would too - especially given the newness of the revolver. If it were an older piece and the cutting had long since leveled off I might feel different about it. As is , I would not want that developing flame cutting distracting and annoying me when I shoot.
If I were in your shoes I would be calling Uberti for a shipping label.

Have you taken the issue up with the manufacturer?
 
Maybe its just me but your forcing cone looks a little etched also. But maybe the lighting is playing a trick on me.
 
you are not going to cut through the frame, so shoot that accurate little gun.

luck,

murf
 
I think what I’m going to do is have the gap widened evenly and try another 1000 rounds, if the cut stays like this that is fine what worries me is it continuing at the rate it’s gone.
 
Maybe its just me but your forcing cone looks a little etched also. But maybe the lighting is playing a trick on me.
Yes that is etching wear on the forcing cone, I don’t think that’s as big a problem, although I don’t have years of experience with these guns.
 
I would take a couple more photos and send the photos to Uberti and ask them about it. They built it. They should know.
If you can remember the brands of ammo you fired that may help indicate to them you weren’t firing too hot a load.
 
View attachment 844093 View attachment 844094 View attachment 844095 View attachment 844096 Hello first post here,
other than the flame cutting this gun shoots like a dream, dead on accurate, perfect timing, crisp feeling action and superb trigger pull, it would be a shame for this to be the fatal flaw, since I have put money into a new hammer without a “safety” new trigger, and timing it just right.
Thank you.

It's not a fatal flaw, revolvers get flame cutting… If everything else is good to go there's no reason to fix something that's not really a problem. What if they replace the gun and it shoots worse, but has a slightly wider B/C gap? You'd be kicking yourself for sending it in. Most likely they'll just say it's in spec.
 
Quick update I said in the original post that I thought the cylinder was crooked and that’s what I thought was the reason the b/c gap was uneven, some quick feeler gauge measurements between cylinder and frame proved that false and it appears to be just an unevenly cut forcing cone. With the top more open is blowing most of the hot gas up at the top strap.
I will look into evening that out properly (no not with a file) I’m glad for everyones replies, as I do tend to go overboard obsessing about minor problems!
 
Most revolvers have flame cutting, though typically more in magnum cartridges, so I’m surprised to see this in ‘cowboy’ loads. Flame cutting is self terminating, meaning eventually the cut will get far enough away to where the pressure and heat are not high enough at that distance to make a cut. It’s only a distance of thousandths, but makes a big difference. Just like how you need to be close with an O/A torch to cut, and when you move further it doesn’t do anything but heat the metal.

I wouldn’t worry but does seem like the metal is not the best.
 
Ok got an update, I was able to have the cylinder gap evened up, it did get widened just a hair in the process, and now sits at 0.006 with cylinder pushed back 0.004 forward. I took it to the range and shot 186 black powder rounds through it without cleaning so it looks like the gap is still good for black powder, after that it was a bit gummy as you can imagine but cylinder and action still functioned just fine. Accuracy is still good and the flame cutting didn’t seem to change so it looks like I may have solved it!
 
I don't see much wrong with the gun in your pics. I don't see anything abnormal.

It may have more to do with your powder than the gun.

Unless the cylinder is rubbing on the rear of the barrel I'd keep and eye on it and leave it be. It'll widen out on it's own over time.

This, at present, appears to fall under the heading of..."The more I use my gun the more it looks like a used gun, what should I do?"
 
I don't see much wrong with the gun in your pics. I don't see anything abnormal.

It may have more to do with your powder than the gun.

Unless the cylinder is rubbing on the rear of the barrel I'd keep and eye on it and leave it be. It'll widen out on it's own over time.

This, at present, appears to fall under the heading of..."The more I use my gun the more it looks like a used gun, what should I do?"
After searching flame cutting online nothing looked as deep and jagged as mine so I was concerned at first. Glad I posted here though and got some good ideas that helped.
 
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