The 20 gauge shotgun, deceptively powerful for it's size

[MacTech]

In this "Bigger is Better" world, the mighty 12-Gauge reigns supreme, the master of all it surveys, blessed with a huge range of shell options, from the tiny #9 all the way to massively powerful slugs, you name it, there's probably a 12 gauge shell for it

The downside of the 12 gauge, especially in manual action firearms (single shot / doubles / pumps / bolts, etc) is a recoil that can range from powerful to downright *punishing* (yes, 3.5" shotshells, I'm looking at *YOU*)

I have a Remington Express Supermag 12-gauge I bought used a while ago, blond wood, and the infamous Express bead-blasted finish, so far, it hasn't shown signs of rust, but that may be due to the fact that I wipe it down after handling it, and after putting it to use in the field, I make sure to give it a once over with my RIG-Rag and RIG universal grease.... so far, so good, no rust

Anyway, the 870 is *NOT* my favorite shotgun, no, it's a nice, reliable, solid gun, and with the 18.5" barrel, a great HD gun, but it's not my favorite shotgun.

That honour goes to my H&R Topper Deluxe Classic in 20-Gauge, it's just a really nice gun, American Black Walnut furniture with nice grain, well cut checkering, matte nickel-plated receiver, and my favourite feature, the barrel...

Unlike most of H&R's 20 gauges, the TDC 20's barrel is twice as thick as a normal 20, it's a true "bull barrel" shotgun, it's basically 12-gauge barrel stock with a 20-gauge bore, and that extra weight helps soak up the already minor recoil of the 20 gauge shell, IIRC, the TDC 20 weighs around 8-9 Lbs, *plus*, I have my homemade recoil reducer in the stock hole to even further mitigate the recoil

With full power shotshells (1200-1400FPS) the recoil is a firm but gentle shove, easy to roll with and get back on target....

It's a brilliant little gun, and one of the very few guns in my collection that will *NEVER* be sold or traded (the other ones being my CZ 452 Trainer with 1 lb YoDave trigger, my Marlin 25, the first gun I ever owned, and my Marlin 39A lever)

Okay, enough rambling, time to get on topic

We've got a problem with English House sparrows down at our barn, they're tearing up the insulation (not even using it in their nests, just tearing it up to be destructive) attacking our Purple Martins and Barn Swallows, and generally just pooping everywhere in the barn, making a mess of themselves and being a general nuisance

Yesterday I took my CZ down to the barn and used some of my superquiet rounds to take down a few of them, problem is, they were skittish the whole time, and it was very difficult to reliably take them out, they seemed to be able to sense the bullet before it hit them and they evaded it

A more effective dispatch method was needed, and since these sparrows are flocking birds, I decided to use that behavior to my advantage, I stopped off at my gun shop and picked up a box of Rio #9 shotshells, as I don't think a sparrow is going to need anything bigger than #9, plus, 9's have the highest number of shot pellets

I hadn't shot these shells before, so I decided to pattern them, went out to my target range, affixed a 12" paper plate to my "Block" compressed foam archery target (that I've been using for my pellet rifle and Logan's BB Gun)and stepped back to approx. the distance I'd be shooting at the sparrows, around 35-40 feet, lined up the bead on the plate and pulled the trigger....

BLAM! the shot cloud struck the paper plate almost dead center, rocking the block back on it's corner, standing at a jaunty 45 degrees, the shot pattern thrown by the Trulock Modified extended choke tube put almost all the pellets inside the plate, and there was a big hole in the plate where the wad had struck the plate

As I removed the plate, I noticed that the Block was *deeply* cratered in the center, it looked like someone had hauled off and punched it, needless to say, I was quite impressed by the energy dump from this Rio #9 shotshell, looks like it'll do a number on the sparrows.....

After removing the plate, I placed one of my "mutant" Butternut squash on top of the block, this "mutant" was almost all seed chamber, with a tiny nub on top, it looked like a pear, kinda...

I went back to the same distance, put the bead on the Butternut, and fired

BLAM!

The squash just........ vanished!, literally, one moment it was there, then there was a very Gallagher-esque "Sledge-O-Matic" splatter, and then....nothing, it had ceased to be, expired, it had gone to meet it's maker, it was an -ex-gourd! (no, it wasn't "just resting..." )

You know, I've shot plenty of games of trap with this gun, I've patterned it on a bunch of different patterning boards, I've shot cans of seltzer water with my "FunShell" Airsoft BB pellet loaded training rounds, but this is the first time I've shot something organic with it, and I have to say, it's impressive, sure, I'm used to dusting clay targets with it, but they don't react the way organic matter does, and butternut squash aren't exactly the softest gourds out there, and this one had been hardening off in the fridge for at least a month, it was a good, solid, chunky gourd, and the 20 gauge pulped it in nanoseconds

I wasn't expecting it to be that dramatic...

of course, now I have to re-evaluate my options for taking out the sparrows, with the Trulock Mod. choke tube, it throws a pattern of approx. 12" at 35 to 40 feet, the sparrows spread out wider than that, I may have to see how these shells pattern with my Imp. Cyl choke tube tomorrow, I want a wide, shallow pattern to have the greatest chance of hitting the maximum number of sparrows

 

[Noah]

I shot a sparrow at 10 yards with a 1 1/8 oz #9, 12 gauge, and was sure I had somehow missed until at least 25 seconds later it began raining feathers... further inspection found half a leg and a pile of entrails, but that was it. I shot a crow at 30 yards, same gun, it died cleanly as I would wish, but there wasn't a scratch on it. Still can't figure it out, maybe there was no penetration at all... Birdshot does a number on rotten garden veggies, it can blow a huge (Ok my pumpkins were mediocre and rotting...) pumpkin to bits from 20 yards, that example was with a 20 gauge #8, and make one 4" hole in a piece of 1/2" plywood at 10 yards. Too bad I got the invading rabbit with a break barrel pellet gun before I got my first of 4 shotguns in 2 weeks, I might have more to say on it.

When the pattern is tight, Birdshot is like a short range, low penetration cloud of lead. Very effective on *very* soft targets like produce and birds. As for bigger, well, anything, I doubt it would be as impressive.

EDIT: By the way, all 4 of those guns were H&R singles, one being a 20 gauge topper. All have BBs in the stock for recoil, even the 20 gauge, which makes it very handy for smaller visitors and family members. I tried firing a 3" 00 shell out of a Pardner, and that made my arm tingle all the way through and then my shoulder ached for days, haha. I love the price and simplicity of Toppers and Pardners, but the recoil on an un-hill-billy recoil quick fixed (fill the stock with BBs) gun is pretty bad with game loads, or the aforementioned. The 20 gauge has similar damage effects with slightly cheaper ammo and is much handier to shoot, so it gets a yes vote from me.

By the way, anyone ever notice that you can fit 3 shells in the stock? After a few seconds I realized that was tremendously dangerous, but having one butt plate screw removed so the plate could be rotated 90* and the shells quickly and easily dumped into my hand, ready to use, was interesting.

 

[Red Tornado]

You might to want to try a cylinder choke. At that distance with 9 shot, the wider pattern should still be plenty dense.
RT

 

[sedona]

Hi. I am new here but have always liked the 20 gauge for hunting quail and dove.A cylinder or a skeet choke is really good out to 25 yards or so.I do like a 12 gauge for pheasant but for smaller birds a 20 is fine.

 

[MacTech]

In case anyone is interested, here's how I constructed my homemade recoil reducer....

First, I cut four leather discs (1/8" thick leather) that were about the diameter of the hole in the stock, I dropped two of them down the hole and tapped them in place with a long screwdriver

Second, I dropped a nickel down the hole, then a short (1" long) but very stout spring from the "Boxes Of Mystery" (Dad's old Clarostat tool cabinets) in the attic, then another nickel on top of the spring

I then took two 3" 12-gauge brass shotgun shells that I had previously filled with lead shot and sealed with hot-glue-gun glue, dropped the first one down the hole with the base facing the nickel, then dropped the second shotshell down the hole, with the glued end facing the first shell (both glued ends are facing each other)

Then a nickel, another stout spring, a nickel, and two leather washers at the other end, I then reattached the recoil pad to the buttstock

The way this recoil reducer is set up, I have the counterweight (the two lead-filled shotshells) suspended between two springs, the nickels are there so the springs have a solid metal surface to bear against, and the leather washers at either end act both as cushions and to protect the bolt head on the receiver side

Under recoil, the counterweight helps absorb some of the recoil, and changes the recoil impulse from a sharp punch to a firm shove

 

[Red Tornado]

How deep is that hole in the stock? That sounds like a great plan, I've got a 12ga H&R and it needs some recoil reduction. I've never looked under the butt plate, guess I need to. Thanks for the tip.
RT

 

[MacTech]

Red Tornado, I'm not sure of the exact length of the buttstock, it's whatever is standard on the TDC, which has a 14.5" LOP...

that image is from the H&R website, my 20G looks almost identical, just a slight difference in the vent rib taper

I tried the Imp. Cyl. choke tonight and it threw a much nicer, wider pattern, the entire 12" paper plate evenly covered with pellets, I think that choke tube is the best bet for close-in sparrows

 

[1KPerDay]

Last 3-gun someone ran a field model 20 gauge, and it was blasting the steel with authority compared to the open-choked 12-ga saigas and others. I'm guessing he was running a modified or even full choke. The difference was quite impressive.

20 gauge is no slouch... an ounce or so of shot is going to be effective no matter what size tube it comes out of.

 

[Germster]

A 20 gauge shotgun is always lighter than a 12 and both kill birds.

12 gauge shotguns are heavier, and they also kill birds. The deal is the 12 puts out more shot and will kill more birds and break more clay targets than a 20.

If you are really serious about killing birds, shoot a 12. If hunting is fun and you don't care about bringing home the beacon, then shoot the 20. I like both guns. If I'm fooling around I shoot a 20. If I'm serious, I shoot a 12.

 

[1KPerDay]

A 20 gauge shotgun is always lighter than a 12

Hmmmm......

 

[45crittergitter]

My 20 gauge 3" magnum autoloader is lighter than my slim, trim Model 42 .410 pump.

 

[GCBurner]

3" 20 gauge shotgun shells are loaded up to the same weight of shot as 2 3/4" 12 gauge shells. Since they're shooting it out of a lighter gun, the kick can actually feel like more than the same 1 1/4oz.-1 1/2oz. load would produce in a heavier 12 gauge gun.

 

[Germster]

Yep, a 3" shell fired in a 20 can kick. I had the stock crack at the wrist in a Miroku O/U shooting heavy loads.

A 20 can shoot just as hard and as far as a 12 (all things equal). It just doesn't shoot as many pellets. A 3" can shoot a 1 1/4 oz load just as the 12, but it shoots a longer shot culumn. Frankly I'm not sure how that extended collumn of shot makes w/t killing birds, but I suppose it does.

If I have a long walk to take I'm carrying either a 20 or my wonderful Model 37 in 16 gauge. I have used my Win Model 59 with success too. It is a little whippy, however; but light as a feather.

 

[RhinoDefense]

All I use is a 20ga. From small game to uplands to waterfowl. Pick the right load and go hunt.

 

[Germster]

Which shells do you use for waterfowl?

I have two O/U 20's and while not really old they are pre-Steel shot guns. Are there non-steel non-toxic sheels for 20 gauge guns? If so I'd like to find some.

 

[RhinoDefense]

You'd be looking for Hevi-Shot or bismuth I think.

The loads I use right now are 20ga 3 inch Remington NitroSteel #2. That's what patterns well in my gun and what I have confidence with the most. Right now I'm working through the last case I bought several years ago. Then I'll reload them.

 

[cfullgraf]

When i was shooting competitive skeet, my 20 gauge average was bette than my 12 gauge average. i started shooting the 20 gauge in 12 gauge events.

I know just shoot for fun, but load 7/8 oz 12 gauge loads.

 

[RhinoDefense]

When I was younger, my stepfather's boss challenged me to a dual during the company's Wild Beast Feast. Everyone that hunted that year brought a dish of their hunt's kill to a potluck dinner at the local gun club, wives and kids invited, for a Christmas party. The bonus was the annual trap shooting contest. I went up against the boss and his .410 bore with my 20ga. Both single shot guns. After 3 years of me beating him bad, the fourth year he made me use his .410 bore and he used my 20ga. I still beat him. Even worse than before.

 

[roadchoad]

the recoil is a firm but gentle shove, easy to roll with and get back on target....

isn't a Topper a single shot? Wouldn't reloading kinda kill your follow-up anyway?

 

[Germster]

Hmmmm......

Oh come on now. You and I both know that most, 20's are lighter than most 12's. Can we find a super light 12 someplace? Sure. But gun for gun your 20 will be on a lighter frame than most 12's from the same manufacturer.

Are there some 20's build on 12 frames? Probably, but none come to mind.

 

[MCgunner]

If you are really serious about killing birds, shoot a 12. If hunting is fun and you don't care about bringing home the beacon, then shoot the 20. I like both guns. If I'm fooling around I shoot a 20. If I'm serious, I shoot a 12.

Keep telling yourself that. I routinely out shoot my 12 gauges forever buddy with my 20 on doves. I'm shooting 7/8 ounce 7.5s from 2 3/4" in a 20 gauge Spartan coach gun, quite light and handy. It's surprisingly effective on those 35 yard high sweepers, too. But, if the birds are all high and fast, I do prefer my heavier 12 gauge gas gun, not because I shoot 1 ounce loads in it, but because the gun is more forward weight bias and swings smoother.

If It involves steel shot, I default to my 12s. I've not found a 3" 20 that patterns for squat. My 2 3/4" fasteel 12s pattern fantastic. I do like the little 20, though, and in certain situations, like dove hunting over a tank, where quick snap shots are required, I prefer the lighter, quicker gun. I actually shoot MORE birds with it. Such was the case opening weekend of north zone this year, dry everywhere around Waco and we were hunting tanks that had water in 'em.

Anyway, a good bird hunter will have more than one tool. Hell, I'm wanting an O'U in 28. I also shoot a 10, far better than any 12, on southern snow geese.

 

[RhinoDefense]

No kidding. I went 5 shots for 5 birds and 5 kills today hunting grouse with a 20ga. I guess I was just fooling around.

 

[Germster]

No kidding. I went 5 shots for 5 birds and 5 kills today hunting grouse with a 20ga. I guess I was just fooling around.

Sarcasm? Do I detect sarcasm? Naw. You'd never do such a thing.

20's are good guns. They just don't shoot as dense a pattern as a 12 at any given range with similar chokes. Doesn't make the 20 a bad gun. I like them too.

I know that some people have compared an ounce and a quarter loads with both guns with similar chokes. In this case the 20 will shoot a longer column of shot. I've never done the experiment, but it'd be fun and interesting to do. Shoot similar loads of shot with a 12 and a 20 with the same choke at a patterning board and evaulate the shot patterns. If they are similar then there is no difference between the two guns, except weight and recoil. A 20 mag shooting an ounce and a 3/8's shot will kick harder than a 12, which is heavier with the same load. Right? Then we get into stock design, fit, cast, type of butt plate/pad etc.. Also an auto will kick less than a double.

It is not a simple question is it. My 3" SKB 20 O/U firing heavy loads, kicks like a country mule. My Sterlingworth, a 12, 2 3/4 with a similar load, seems to me to kick less.