The absolute worst part of reloading is...

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forgetting to properly label the rounds you just loaded, particularly a with a variety of different charges for working up a load.

I've never done that, but I did drop an open ammo box that had several different 32acp loads inside (5 of each). I knew them by order (first row, second row, etc). They varied by .2gr each. I tried weighing each one to separate by weight, but there was enough variance in brass and bullet weight to make this pointless. I pulled them all (only 20 rounds).

Chris
 
Worst part

The worst part is to push out the one grain of walnut shell that sticks in the flash hole. I know that I could tumble first and then decap, and most times I do, but when I decap first I always feel like I waste a ton of time poking out the media. Once, I started to reprime before I picked everything out and I had to go back through and look down into about 30 6.5 x 55 shells with a flashlight to make sure that I didn't have an obstruction.
Anybody have a guess as to how it would affect a round if the flash hole was obstructed in this way?
 
Getting a good deal on a thousand rounds of once-fired brass and then remembering you've got to clean the primer pockets on all of them.
 
dude dude dude...case prep... case prep takes WAY longer than actually loading the silly ammo itself.

atek3
 
Lubing cases for me. Don't know why really, it just bugs me. Haven't tried the spray lubes yet though, maybe that will be the magic wand...

Sorting brass out of the tumbler is kind of a pain too, but I avoid that by only polishing one type of case at a time. Course, that takes longer....
 
What kills me is to be loading 40 (for instance) on my Dillon 650 and just about the time you get into good rythm, you find that a 9mm case was missed inside a 40 case. Locks EVERYTHING up!!
 
reloading.

I dunno how all ya'll can separate one process outta the whole hateful chore.
 
I have to agree with 444. Wiping the cases of the residue following tumbling is a pain in the butt.

But, to me it has to be done otherwise you just press the gritty powder into the cases when you size them.

I've had people tell me they size them and then clean them.

Well, in my mind, that's counter productive. Why worry about cleaning the cases after the dirty ones have been ran through a tight sizing die?:confused:
 
IF you have any residue from thumbling will be taken care of by the sizing die. Especially if you are using carbide.

I have often resized nickle plated cases after sizing to remove any tiny scratches. It makes them look brand new.

I had a customes try to argue with me that the ammo he was buying from me was not in once fired cases.
He insisted they were new. :rolleyes:
 
Blues Bear, every time I run a case into the sizing die that has not been wiped off the residue is pressed into the case and looks like crap.

I realize that you can run dirty cases (in this instance those with tumbling residue) through a carbide die but to me, and like I said, it's counter productive.

Carbide or not my thinking is if you continually run cases covered with an abrasive residue through dies the life of the dies are reduced.

In fact that is exactly what I was told by Lee when I sent a set of .38SPL/.357 dies to them after my buddy did exactly what I am talking about and left the residue on his cases when sizing them.
 
Ala Dan, my friend, my guess is that you are referring to straight wall cases such as .357 where the sizing die doesn't quite reach to the rim because of the shell holder.

This is a case where tumbling afrter sizing will help camoflague that a bit.

Of course you could have a tight sizing die. If you have a bullet puller pull 2 or 3 loaded rounds of factory ammo and then resize the cases in your dies to see if they come out the same way. If so your die is a little too tight.

I had a set of RCBS .38/.357 carbide dies that I bought new back in 1976 that was like this. They replaced the sizing die for me no charge. That was back in the old days, when RCBS dies decapped in the expander die.


NavajoNPaleFace are you a carbide sizer?


By the way that replaced RCBS .357 carbide sizing die lasted well over ½ million rounds.
As did my .45acp carbide sizing die. Well over 500,000 rounds
I had a Lyman carbide .44spl/mag die last well over 250,000
And I still have my original RCBS .41 mag carbide die that is closing in on 500,000.

At least 50% of those rounds were sized without tumbling.

A good carbide die will in fact clean the case for you.
An old fashioned standard sizing die will indeed imbed the grit and grime in the cases because the sizing lub will act as a lapping compound. You'll get scratehed cases and eventually the die will become scratched as well.


I loaded commercially for almost 2 years before I even bough a tumbler.
I ended just having SIX Thumblers Model B tumblers working 24/7.
Four for polishing before loading and two more for final polish, after loading, on my premium ammo.

I learned early that people would gladly pay more for the shinier ammo. :evil: The tumblers really did pay for themselves.



Of course just because I have loaded over 4 million rounds of handgun ammo so far in my lifetime doesn't mean my opinion is worth any more than you have paid for it.
 
i don't particularily like to cast/size/lube bullets
i really don't like swaging crimped primer pockets
i hate having empty brass and am out of bullets, primers, and/or powder
my 550B dillon sometimes dumps a full tube of primers all over the place
 
Mishaps

OK, BDHawk, if we're talking mishaps here, not parts of the reloading process, how about being so eager to put powder in a set of just-sized cases that you do that before remembering to put in the primers. It went fine until I took some of the cases out of the loading block and realized that each hole in the loading block had a little mess of powder in the bottom. Picked up several cases, scattering powder everywhere in investigating them, before I figured out what was the matter.

Next problem: How to get at least most of the powder back into its can with no contamination. And avoid getting it on the rug. And the loading bench. And into my shoes. Aaaaarrgh!

And I had no one to blame but myself!
 
smokey joe

i am glad i am not the only one that does stuff like that.
i was loading .40 s&w on my 550b. the bell crank cube slipped out of it's slot. my powder thrower quit doing it's thing. i 'loaded a bunch, sans powder, before i noticed the problem. lots of bullet pulling. i even pulled some good ones, 'cause i didn't know which ones had powder and which ones didn't.
now i make dern sure there is powder in each and every case by taking a peek into the case.
 
Trimming or other cutting operations are odius tasks. It's second only to getting a case stuck in a die.

Another one is the feeling you get after dumping the powder in your powdermeasure back into the can, then realizing that you're not quite sure that that the can was the right one.
 
The absolute worst part of reloading is... reloading

Man, sure hope I don't ever get that way. I'm a beginning reloader (for pistol and rifle) but hope to enjoy it as much as I do now as time goes on.

Mark
 
1.picking up spent primers from the ski jump on the dillon 650
2.like chitlin said, a missed 40 in a 45 case. messes up everything
3. latest one... switch from swc to rn and not checking the oal on over 1000 rounds of 45acp. thank god i just made it under maximum length and shot them no problem.
4. double charging the first round i tried to assemble and blowing up a gun has to be my worst experience so far though

flip
 
Using Winchester rifle brass. No matter what I do, Winchester brass always makes the needle on my runout gauge go bezerk. Double digit runout sometimes.
Remington brass is just the opposite. In most cases(no pun intended) runout is less than .001 to .002. A bad case might measure .003". Don't know why.

ZM
 
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