The Smith & Wesson Airweight Model 37

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I recently bought a pinned barrel model 37 and have considered having the hammer bobbed after I receive my CHL.
Not sure what a decent gunsmith would charge for that to be done.

As a matter of fact I do my qualifying CHL shooting this very night.
But I will be using my new Diamondback 380 for that because in Texas if you qualify using a revolver you cannot carry a semi-auto but if you qualify using the semi you can carry either.
My question to you guys that carry pretty much daily with one of these is how comfortable is it to carry vs a slim pocket 380?
Carrying mine around the house in my front pocket unholstered seems a tad bulky.

I guess I fall in the camp of the old guys that thinks it's a much better looking pistol than the newer generation Smiths.
Although I realize the new ones are +P rated.
So I just bought some non +p Buffalo Bore 158 gr. LSWCHP to up the ante.
 
My question to you guys that carry pretty much daily with one of these is how comfortable is it to carry vs a slim pocket 380?
Carrying mine around the house in my front pocket unholstered seems a tad bulky.

A pocket holster will help reduce the sense of bulkiness by keeping the Airweight from flopping around. Mine is quite comfortable in a pocket holster.
 

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I purchased it blued humback cousin this morning a no dash model 38. I cant wait to shoot enough to carry it.
 
Gave my beloved old 37-2 to my mom when she semi-retired out to New Mexico. (If you see a gray haired ecologist looking at wildflowers around Taos, watch out--she's packin). Have a 642 now, and it's a great pistol, but it just lacks the panache of the 37's.
 
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Now you're giving my J-frames a complex. I had a Model 37 years ago. This time, when I went shopping for snubbies, I bought the Model 637 because it was literally hundreds less than a Model 36 and my skin oil and S&W bluing just don't get along, no matter how much I clean the gun every time I touch it. I haven't seen a Model 37; used J-frames are rarer than hen's teeth in my neck of the woods. I bought the Model 60 because I liked it better than the Ruger SP101.

I like hammers and don't have a problem with them snagging because of the way I draw the gun from a pocket. Just an old quirk of mine.

My 637 is one of my most constant companions. I've got the usual assortment of holsters, but come summertime, when I can wear my favorite cargo shorts, I just stick in a pocket holster and drop it in a pocket. Incidentally, I got rid of the Uncle Mike's Boot Grip that made shooting the little Smith so painful with +P rounds and bought a set of the grips Smith puts on the Model 60 Pro. Makes for much more pleasant shooting and they add just 0.56" to the gun's height compared to the old grips. The Model 60 has some Magna-style grips I got from a shop here in Texas. Makes it a cold weather concealer but a great field gun.
 
A couple of weeks ago, a friend mentioned that she had a S&W revolver but it was "stuck and wouldn't open". I told her to bring it by and I'd take a look at it.

Later that day, she came by with it as I was heading out the door. I took a quick look at it and way dismayed to see that while it was in the original box with all its papers, it the frame, barrel, and cylinder was covered with deep rust pits. A sad looking gun.

The next day, I had time to really check it out and it turned out that the "rust pits" were really some sort of oil that had turned into black balls of goo. The cylinder release latch was glued in the partially-open position, the cylinder was open just a bit and wouldn't move either way.

A thorough cleaning showed that the darn thing looked to be virtually new and unfired. So, she ended up with a no-dash Model 37 in beautiful shape. Nice find, that. (I was her brother's and came down to her years ago when he died. She was thrilled to have it.) Now, I've got to get her to the range for a lesson or two...I'll look for some wadcutters so the recoil won't be too bad.
 
i have had my 37 for 20 years...good shooter for a short barrel gun....never ever had a min's of trouble from it...likes to ride in my boot or back pocket with my CW45 up top!!!
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I initially thought that a new "J" would be best for CCW; leaving the older models for "collecting"

I Liked my 637-2, tried the 642-2, went back to the 637 -- found myself carrying my '71 m36 more than these... then this '74 m-37 came up.

(Both of the 6xx's are now gone.)

37.jpg
 
If anyone is considering buying an older M37 I suggest that you take a magnifying glass with you when you examine the pistol. I used to own a M37. It cracked on the frame just below the barrel. I did not shoot +Ps thru it, but I bought it used. Just a heads up!
 
There have been reports of that, along with plenty of photos, and some debate about whether it is a result of over-pressure rounds or over-torquing of the barrel during manufacture. My 37's do not show it but it is something to be aware of and on the watch for.
 
Model 37 (no dash number)

I have carried a .38 Spl. Model 37, with a super trigger job, every day since I escaped from a carjacking with a knife held to my throat in 1988. I used to carry it in my briefcase but now-a-days I don't carry a briefcase so I'm considering the new Scandium revolvers. In my Porsche convertible (same kind or car I was carjacked in) the 37 fits perfectly in the junk slot in the dash so I would keep it there & carry the lighter gun.

I also have the Custom Shop Scandium 1 7/8".45 ACP Revolver which, other than size is probably the best self defense handgun money can buy.

If I go to the new Scandium revolver I am actually considering the .22 Magnum with 7 shots or the (out of production) .32 Mag. A firearms instructor once said to me, first you need to hit them or it doesn't matter what caliber you shoot!

By the way, does anyone know if +P is safe in a 1988 Model 37? I was thinking to try some real light bullets like 115 gr. (.355 dia.) Luger bullets with Bullseye or Clays due to the short barrel. Both powders can easily go +P.

I now carry lightly loaded 158gr. because I can't hit with hot 158's.
 
1974 model 37 in my pocket all day today, and many others. I only take it out for my nickel model 38.
37.jpg
 
For those that are looking, I have a no dash M37 up for sale in this forums classified.
3" barrel blued and a very nice revolver. I gotta finance my new addiction with a Kimber 82g.

Roger
 
Model 37 (no dash number)
I have carried a .38 Spl. Model 37, with a super trigger job, every day since I escaped from a carjacking with a knife held to my throat in 1988. I used to carry it in my briefcase but now-a-days I don't carry a briefcase so I'm considering the new Scandium revolvers. In my Porsche convertible (same kind or car I was carjacked in) the 37 fits perfectly in the junk slot in the dash so I would keep it there & carry the lighter gun.

I don't recommend that you carry a nice M37 w/trigger job in the junk slot of Porsche convertibles . . . for the next time a thug parts you from your latest Porsche convertible he's gonna end up with a free M37 with a nice trigger job in the "junk slot!"

Truly, if the gun is not ON you, it will not do you much good . . . and it may also cause innocent people a lot of grief later on once a thug uses it to kill or maim.


By the way, does anyone know if +P is safe in a 1988 Model 37?

+P is quite safe in your '88 M37, assuming it is in great shape. I carry the same in my 1971 M37 daily and it shoots well. Try the new Winchester Bonded PDX1 130gn. +P hollowpoint ammo, it should shoot at POA. My M37 really likes it . . . nice tight groups.


I was thinking to try some real light bullets like 115 gr. (.355 dia.) Luger bullets with Bullseye or Clays due to the short barrel. Both powders can easily go +P.

Expect poor accuracy and the possibility of the light little bullets "jumping the crimp" under heavy recoil. NOT recommended at all.



I now carry lightly loaded 158gr. because I can't hit with hot 158's.

If you can hit with a light 158 gr load, but not a +P load, then it is a practice issue . . . and almost surely a flinch-induced problem.

Take a buddy to the range with you and let him load your revolver . . . leaving out one (up to five) chambers that do NOT have a hot round in it. You'll learn quite quickly if you are flinching when the gun goes CLICK and you are yanking the little roscoe towards the ground (a trait called "milking" . . . for one looks like they are milking a cow when this happens).

Empty chamber practices are highly recommended for ALL us shooters on occasion. You want to see the flame/flash at the end of the barrel each and every time your handgun goes boom. If so, you aren't flinching, blinking or milking!!!

ADDITIONAL BENEFIT . . . once you stop "milking" your shooting partner can begin loading a few rounds in the gun, and you'll find that you are shooting TIGHT groups WHENEVER the gun actually is going off!

Hope this helps!
 
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