The THR Walker Club

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My method is a threaded spacer on the end of the arbor that's fitted to bottom in the barrel lug. I also set barrel to cylinder gap at the same time. Others use washers as shims to do the same thing. What I have also found is the frame can stretch causing a wide barrel to cylinder gap even though the arbor is seated properly. This has been on a few Walker pistols I have seen, not sure about the Dragoons, My Walker had this problem. Its fixed now. I can fix yours as well if you want.
 
Took delivery moments ago. I’m impressed with the overall quality and lack of dings, scrapes and bumps, there are a couple but I can live with um. I’ve wanted one for years, studied their history and chased them down in museums. I am so happy I have a warm glow inside. Sign me up. 4-F7-F3432-5-C73-461-E-B359-E3-DDAF84-D7-D7.jpg
 
Does anyone know if an ASM Walker grip strap and trigger guard will fit an Uberti frame ?
 
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Do any of you Walker owners have a pressure ring rolled into your cylinders between the engraving and the cylinder stop notches? If so, can you tell me the make of your gun (ASM, Uberti, Colt 2/3G or original? Thanks.
Here is a photo of my ASM Walker with the pressure ring shown:

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Hate to burst their bubble, but the Civil War didn't start in 1847. Just sayin'. And a Walker was much too heavy for anyone but a mounted soldier.
 
Gotta disagree with ya on that one Captain, I have carried a Walker on quite few jackrabbit hunts when I was in Nevada. It's all in what you get used to. Yes it's heavier then a 1860, but with a good holster and belt it's certainly doable.
It is certainly "doable", yes. But let's recall that of the roughly 1,100 Walkers produced, 1,000 were previous military issue and the other-odd 100 were mostly ornate cased sets presented as gifts to VIPs. So the chances of any of those turning up in the hands of soldiers (primarily Confederate, one would presume) are slim-to-none, and on the off-chance they did, I know I, for one, would choose to have a lighter, more nimble belt gun like the 1858 Remington or 1860 Colt Army.
But I do concede it's possible. I just took issue with the way the video was titled, is all.
Interesting that the gun stayed amazingly steady during all the chainfire fuss, though!
 
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Interesting was a comment on the page talking about the chainfire and the person that posted the vid said it was because he "didn't use enough grease". In all the time and years I've shot C&B, it occurred to me I've never had a chainfire with an open top, when using a proper fitting bullet. On the other hand I've had a few on the Remington design. I got my Lyman (ASP) NMA .44 in the late 70's and shot the bejeezus out of that thing. I would shoot until it wouldn't turn anymore and I had to hammer the cylinder pin out, then do it all over again.

In all that time I probably had 3 or 4 instances of a chain detonation, always a chamber to the left of the bore. I mentally attributed it to a stray cap fragment that bounced just right, but some people say it can be caused by strong flash from the fired nipple jumping over. I dunno. But so long as I am using correct, chamber mouth sealing bullets in an open top, I can't remember a single instance of that happening in that design. Maybe I'm lucky, or need to shoot more.
 
I'm going with chain fire mostly due to loose fitting caps....especially a given when plenty of lead shaved off the ball. I don't use over ball grease, mostly just a big ol' mess from what I've seen. I do however, use lubed felt wads.
 
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