The THR Walker Club

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A question...do the backstrap screws on all the Ubertis protrude out of the backstrap a little bit?

Mine do, but none of my other Colt clones have this.
 
mykeal, you should not make fun of old folks:)
Thats where my wife wanted me to go that day:(
The last time she sent me to pay the utility bill, I drove past the place and pulled into the parking lot at freds and walked into the store, trying to figure out what she sent me there for.
 
A question...do the backstrap screws on all the Ubertis protrude out of the backstrap a little bit?

Mine do, but none of my other Colt clones have this.

the tops of mine do.
 
A question...do the backstrap screws on all the Ubertis protrude out of the backstrap a little bit?

Mine do, but none of my other Colt clones have this.
Click to expand...

My 2nd gen Colt Walker, the top of the screws stick out just a small amount. I'm working on a Uberti Walker clone and it is the same. On my other model Colts and clones they do not.
 
They don't really protrude, where the screws sit all the way in the bottom of the screws are like .030" recessed into the countersink of the gripframe. At the top of the screw the contour of the frame draws away from the screwhead about .005". Is that what you are seein'?

SG
 
Mine stick out more than that.

The top of the backstrap isn't any thinner than on 1851s or 1860s, but the filister heads on the screws are a lot thicker.
 
If one takes the time to examine photographs of original Walker revolvers they will discover that the heads of the upper backstrap screws did indeed stick out, and the Italian replicas have correctly duplicated this. On later revolvers Colt countersunk the screw heads deeper into the backstrap, and this is also the case on replicas.

We can now turn off the stove and not worry about this tempest in the teapot... :D
 
All of them that I have ever seen, stick out just a tad at the top.
I never gave it any thought.
I have a colt clone 45 long colt that stick out the same way.
 
I noticed between two of the nipples on the cylinder there is a little bump. I have been told that this is so you can drop the hammer between the cylinders, and carry with all 6 cylinders loaded...is this really safe, or should I just do 5 loaded and rest on the empty if I ever carry my walker....
 
I noticed between two of the nipples on the cylinder there is a little bump. I have been told that this is so you can drop the hammer between the cylinders, and carry with all 6 cylinders loaded...is this really safe, or should I just do 5 loaded and rest on the empty
Click to expand...

This is a subject of much debate. My personal opinion is that it's SAFER to carry with the hammer on an empty chamber than on the safety notch/pin (on some revolvers there is a pin between chambers) with all 6 loaded. There is not a great deal of difference between the two, but the empty chamber does provide a little more security. Here's why:

Consider the hammer down on the safety notch/pin between two loaded and capped chambers. In this position the bolt is raised and resting against the outer surface of the cylinder between two stop notches. The only thing resisting cylinder rotation is the hammer on the pin or in the notch on the back of the cylinder. Pull the hammer back to the point where the hammer clears the notch/pin and the cylinder is free to rotate in either direction; it only needs to turn 30 degrees and the hammer is over a loaded and capped chamber; if it falls the gun will discharge.

Now consider the hammer down on an empty, uncapped chamber, between two loaded and capped chambers. In this position the bolt is raised and resting in a cylinder stop notch. Both the hammer and the bolt are prohibiting cylinder rotation. Pull the hammer back and the cylinder is still unable to move until the hammer moves far enough to lower the bolt; this hammer position is several degrees further back than in the above case. In addition, the hand will only allow rotation in one direction when the bolt clears the cylinder stop notch. Finally, the cylinder must rotate twice as far (60 degrees) to put a loaded and capped chamber under the raised hammer.

Many people argue that a good holster with flap or hammer stay makes the difference moot, but there is the issue of inadvertently catching the hammer on the holster, belt or clothing while stowing the gun - there's no holster safety mechanism to prevent that.

Finally, some argue that the small advantage in safety that one gets from carrying on empty is negated by the possibility of needing that sixth round. Perhaps; there are no statistics to evaluate that one way or the other.

Granted the advantage is small, but when you consider the possible damage that can be done by a negligent or accidental discharge, the choice to get every possible extra bit of safety one can seems obvious.
 
mykeal covered it well. The open tops well have one or more pins for the hammer to rest on. Most of the Remington types have a notch cut in the cylinder for the hammer.
If I'm target shooting I load all six, if I'm going to be walking/hiking around then I carry on an empty cylinder. If you feel the need for all six rounds, then use the center pin/notches.
If you are aware of the two different carry conditions you should not have a problem with either one.
 
In most of these pictures of Walker replicas there is something that’s historically wrong. Who knows what it is? :scrutiny: :evil:
 
Old Fluff I give, you got me ... Unless it's they were made in the white...
Click to expand...

Nope. Like I said in a pervious post the frames, hammers and rammer assemblies were all color case-hardened. Remember, at this time Colt and Walker, who were designing the new revolver, and Whitney who was going to make it, had very few options when it came to materials. That's the main reason the finished gun was so massive. Thirteen years later in 1860, developments in better steel made it possible to build an effective .44 on the smaller Navy model frame.

But anyway, Smokin_Gun was getting close... :evil:

As it's getting close to my bedtime I'll post the answer tomorrow if someone doesn't come up with it. :cool:

Studying the history behind this gun can be as fun as shooting it. ;)
 
Hey y'all. Been lurking around for a while. Brief history, grew up around the Enid, OK area, been into hunting and shooting since I was a kid. Had a .45 Kentucky rifle I built from a kit when I was 12 or so. Always liked BP firearms. Joined the OK Natl. Guard when I was 17 and Went Active 4 years later. Been all over the globe since then on various assignments. Got out of hunting as the Army kept me busy over seas most of the time. Decided to get back into it and got myself a couple of .50 smoke poles, A TC Hawken and a Traditions Panther. I love shooting them but the wife hates the loading of them. Takes too long she says. Oh well, can't train everybody. Used to have a Sauer and Son .45 SAA. Fun to shoot but just didnt have that awe factor about it. Dont get me wrong,,I love the SAA revolvers, but it was just missing something. Decided to get my self another revolver. Have been reading Guns of the Old West for a while and came across an article about the Walker. I was sold after that. Found what I had been lookin for. Looked at several different companies to get one. I had already decided to get an Uberti built one as I have always admired their fit and finish on the other firearms the make. Decided to get mine through Taylors. Problem was they were on back order and it would be about 3 to 6 weeks before they would get another shipment in. So I decided to call Dixie. They had them in stock ready to ship. Ordered it yesterday. Should be at my house in a week to 10 days. Got a R&D cylinder coming from Cimarron. Also ordered all the fixins to go along with it, wood case, powder flask etc. I cant wait to shoot this big hand cannon, but I will have to wait about 5 more months as I am deployed on my 3rd tour to Iraq. So sorry no pics until then. Now I know I will probably get bashed for not capitilizing the W in my screen name but it was an oversight that I didnt catch until after I had registered on here. Still trying to figure out if I can change it or not. I have found a whole slew of info on this site and I look forward to learning more. Hope this qualifies me for the club. Y'all have a nice day.
 
Welcome .44walker with a low case "w" don't sweat the small stuff it's your handle and that's all there is to it. :O)
Congrads on the New Walker I jus' recently got one myself. Your gonna like that walker I say it's a must for any BP enthusiest... Don't know about me bein' Josey wahale with two of um, but could play the part of Lonesome Dove.
Here's a couple sites to keep you busy on yor off time.
http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/
http://www.auctionarms.com/

I commend you on your Service in the Armed Forces...I served in Uncle Sam's beloved Leg Infantry from 1972-1974, and 1974-1979 in the Field Artillery 155SP Howies. Did one last year 1985-1986...tried for where you are when I was on Layoff status for a spell a and a pretty soundin' Lady LT. called me and very nicely told me I as to damn Old...LoL! Oh well it was kinda fun kinda hard...makes the rest of life pretty easy.
Feel free to email, or PM me anytime...If ya ever want or need anything call on me.
Take care and keep yes ass buried.

SG
Formerly
SGT. 108th INF 52nd DIV. 2nd BN/attached 10 SF Mountain Div
144th FA 40th DIV 3rd BN 155SPFA
 
What I observed on my Colt Signature Series Walker is that the surface on the front end of the barrel is in the white. Would this be the answer?
 
Damascus Steel?
Click to expand...

No, at least I don't think so. It would have been too expensive for a government order back then. They did use Damascus steel to make some rifle and shotgun barrels though.


What I observed on my Colt Signature Series Walker is that the surface on the front end of the barrel is in the white. Would this be the answer?
Click to expand...

Now there you got me. If it was the fact hasn't been recorded. But anyway it isn't the feature I have in mind - which has been documented. ;)
 
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