The THR Walker Club

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Need to know something.

Went shooting yesterday and was using my NEW Uberti Walker and the Uberti I bought in December. The new one was TIGHT and tended to foul up FAST! The biggest problem I had was the constant jams with split caps! I was using Remington#11's and paper cartridges I learned to make from a THR thread (THANKS!). No ignition problems, just the jams.

Are there caps out there that resist splitting apart so badly? I have been reading threads all over the place about the Forster Tap-O-Matic and was wondering about that. Seems that aluminum caps don't split so badly. I don't mind if I have to remove the cap myself after firing; I would rather do that than contend with jams. If you are using this device, please tell of your experience.

BTW: Since I bought a new Uberti, I have an ASM that will be posted in the next day or so for sale. Keep your eyes peeled!
 
I don't know about the homemade caps, but to avoid cap jams, as I cock the pistol I roll it sharply (not too far), to the right. I haven't had a cap jam since I started that method. It isn't any work and becomes a habit real fast.
 
What i did also was i put some grease around the base of each nipple. So Once you fired that cylinder the cap fragments would get stuck to the grease around the nipple. helps keep the caps on tight as well.
 
Well, I shot my Walker for the first time today, but I ended up doing most of the shooting with an 1861 Navy that I picked up last week.

The Walker is a cannon, but there is no way that it's current nipples are usable. They don't have much taper, if any. With an extreme amount of effort I could only get a #11 cap barely onto the tip of the Walker's nipple. Every one of them required getting struck by the hammer twice...once to seat it a little farther and again to fire.

Any suggestions?

(I've ordered some Remington #11's which I've read might be slightly larger than the CCI #11's...true?)
 
Two:
1) Replace the nipples with Tresos. One source: Track of the Wolf
OR
2) Chuck a nipple up in a drill. Use a very fine file or emery cloth to polish the nipple cone while rotating it with the drill. Work slowly and carefully. Check the cap fit often. Do NOT OVERDO the filing/sanding.

Caps are not precision parts - you don't get 3 decimal place accuracy for 4 cents apiece. It's very possible, in fact, likely, that the next ones you get will be just a little smaller or larger. They may not fit the new nipples like the old ones did.
 
I would actually recomend Treso nipples for both of you guys. When i first got my walker i had problems with it also. problems with cap fragments and caps just not fitting correctly. it really makes shooting frustrating. However once you change the nipples it really makes a difference.
 
I have Treso nipples on both my Ubertis. Remingon #11's split all apart. I will try the above suggestions and go from there.

I only seem to be able to find Remington and CCI caps around the Corpus Christi area. Who makes caps other than those? I would be willing to try other brands if they are a tougher material.

I also read some threads about a "cap guard" and a modification where you put a small post in front of the cap and modif the trigger notch to go around it. The post is suppsed to keep the cap on the nipple until it rotates around to the side and then fall off. That also looks promising.

I am not discouraged! I will be making BOOM and SMOKE in the very near future, split caps, jams, and all:)!
 
The only other contemporary source for percussion caps is Dynamit Nobel (RWS). They are made in one size only and are a viable fifth size as they are not the same as the CCI's or Remingtons. You may find Winchester brand caps but they are simply reboxed CCI's.

I've no experience with the make-your-own Tap-O-Caps.

The cap guard gun mod has gotten mixed reviews, so it may or may not work.

Frankly, in my experience, the best solution is to learn the wrist roll to help the caps shed predictably.
 
OK, I'll start with replacement nipples and work from there.

I don't have them in front of me and an internet search has come up with three different Walker nipple sizes:
.245x28 (misprint?)
1/4x28 (most common)
.225x32 (original Colt?)

Are the 1/4x28 threads correct for a Colt 2nd Generation? If so, can I use any of the nipples with that thread and not just the ones labeled for a Walker...assuming the height is approximately the same?
 
There are two significant dimensions on a percussion nipple (assuming the cone will fit some kind of cap):

Thread size (meaning major diameter and ptich)
Height from the thread seat to the top of the cone.

0.245" is the major diameter of the 1/4x28 thread, so 0.245x28 is the same as 1/4x28.

.225x32 is very unlikely in any of the modern replicas, including the 2nd Generation Colts. 1/4x28 is much more likely.

Nipple height is important; too short and the hammer may not reach the caps with enough force to set them off, too long and the nipples will fail prematurely. You should make every effort to get the same size nipples in both thread spec and height.

One word of caution about height: don't include the length of the threaded portion in nipple height. The only part that matters is the distance from the thread seat to the top of the cone.
 
Hi, All.
Today I received a little brother for my walker. It was lonely.
I found a 1851 navy colt replica, by Armi San Paolo in .44 for $80.00 at GB.
It had some light rust on the barrel and a small spot on the cylinder.
I already resurfaced the barrel and put one coating of blue on it and it is looking much better
But the main thing is it is so tiny, compaired to the Walker.
I can pick it up and aim it with one hand, and it sounds so cute when I fire it with the load of 22 gr.
I used to have a 36 cal navy colt replica, when I was young, but had forgotten how light they were.
It dosen't feel like a real gun after shooting the walker for a while.
 

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Just saw the peta thing.
I LOVE ANIMALS! I love to raise them, and eat them, and make things from there furry little hides.
And as for all those wild animals, Free Range Food! I moved from the happy bunny froo froo world, when I was about 6 and my grandfather introduced me to my first 410 shotgun. I think those folks are so funny. I knew one when I was in the navy. After 2 days on land survival, he would have bashed the critter with a big rock and eaten it raw.
While he was hunting berries (early may in a very northern state.duh) I caught 3 trout on a saftey pin hook. Baited with a booger. To cold for grubs. It was a fun time.
I don’t know what peta thinks we should do for food.
 
I didn't eat the booger, the fish did, but I did eat him and 2 others caught with his inards.
leave me in the woods for very long and I will get something to eat.
 
PETA are a bunch of tree huggers that think animals are to be worshipped. DDDUUUHHH thats why people are starving in India because they dont know they are supposed to EAT the cow. Put me in the deserts of Arizona all I can say is watch out bunnies and rattlers. Now that is a damn fine sandwich bbq rattler mmm mmm good.
 
sheeeet put me in india and there will be roast, steaks, ribs, prime rib, new yorkers, filet mignon, porter house, beef jerky, and plenty of fresh leather. maybe even some new powder horns.
 
I bought a revovler from the guy who has the second one. good fella to deal with. Don't know if I would shoot them..........who am I kidding yes I would. I would really like to have one of those books though :)
 
I'd shoot the first one but wouldn't bid $1,100 when I could buy the same thing for say $600-$650 for a 2nd Gen . Colt Walker or Dragoon.
The second individual won't honor a California bid, being unlearned about CA C&B Rules... So I can't get that one to shoot it anyway...
 
They made 1853 of the Colt Walker Heritage model.
Current book is NIB 1250, 100% 1000, 98% 750, 95% 525.
MSRP was 1475, this is one model that was not gone up in price.
You can find a regular 2nd gen Walker for much less.
Some one here or over at the firingline has a Heritage that he stripped and antiqued.
 
Letters on grips

Can anybody tell me what the letters stamped on the bottom side of the grips stand for? One side has one set of letters and the opposite side has something else. Just curious.:cool:
 
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