Thinking about casting my own

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zWarlord

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So, as the title says I am looking at casting my own projectiles. I won't have any issues with sourcing lead as I have a friend who is a roofer willing to give me all the boots he pulls off. (Any word on the quality of this source of lead for reloading?)
I was hoping to get some direction as far as where to start with equipment.
I looked at casting equipment, but there is a LOT of stuff to choose from there and I'm not sure what to start out with.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Roofing lead is good stuff. But, because it is pretty much pure lead, you are going to need some lead with tin and/or antimony to mix in with it. Get yourself a bottom pour lead furnace such as those made by Lee, and welcome to your new hobby.

Don
 
i agree with the above statement i would also add that you may want to look around over at cast boolets forum for more info. they are a lot of help over there in this niche part of reloading. not to many casters on this forum that post on a regular basis.
 
Casting is a great hobby. I cast for almost everything I shoot, including 223. I also agree with the above statement. You will probably need to add something to harden it. Linotype works well for hardening, by mixing in proportions to get the hardness you desire. People also use magnum shot because it contains higher levels of arsenic and antimony, which harden lead. I've never used it, but it is an option.

I definitely recommend a bottom pour pot. I started casting several years ago using a propane burner, casting pot and ladle. I only upgraded to a bottom pour earlier this year. Makes a world of difference in bullet quality and speed of casting. Lee bottom pour pots can be found at decent prices, and they work just fine.

Good luck with the new hobby. It is a lot of fun.
 
I would highly recommend the Lyman cast bullet handbook. It will impart the stuff that you need to know. As far as equipment, don't let anyone sour you on the Lee stuff. I have owned a lot of reloading and casting equipment and the Lee molds and pots work as well as any of them. I also prefer a bottom pour pot. I also prefer 6 cavity molds. I wouldn't recommend buying the 2 cavity to "learn" on. You will learn within a few sessions how to do it properly and you can crank them out with 6 cavity molds.

I also added a small dutch oven and propane burner to my list. Since you will be using misc. roofing lead, I would recommend this so you can melt down your lead and alloy it a bit. The lyman book will cover this. Pure lead (which is most likely what you will have with your roofing lead) is a bit too soft for most applications. It doesn't take much antimony and tin to get perfect bullets. You can melt it all down in a larger pot like a dutch oven and make your own ingots that can go in your casting pot.

Start with the Lyman handbook and go from there. It is a great addition to the hobby and will save you more than 50% on your bullet cost by casting your own.
 
Thanks for the input and encouragement.
I must admit, I am intrigued by the idea of casting for .223, I was not aware that could be done. Can you use them in an AR without leading up the gas tube like .22lr kits will?
I had just thought about pistol projectiles, rifle had not even crossed my mind as possible.
I like the idea of a dutch oven kinda thing to cast the ingots before I actually use them.
Matter of interest, how does one test the hardness of the material?
 
Welcome to a new phase of our hobby.
After you get set up, and are casting your own projectiles, look into Powder Coat Painting your bullets. This info is also at CastBoolts.com.
I have cast my own for over 30 years, and this is now the route for me.
You will find with powder coat that you can load to jacketed bullet speeds with NO lead--Even in Glock barrels...Bill.:D:D
 
Quick question on the powder coating, I have not done any reloading or casting but I have been looking into it. I have read about casting your own bullets and many people recommend to 'slug' the barrel of your gun to get the proper size. Is this still a necessary step when using powder coated bullets? My concern is I have 2 different 9mm handguns and I would like to be able to reload cast bullets to use in either gun.
 
So, as the title says I am looking at casting my own projectiles. I won't have any issues with sourcing lead as I have a friend who is a roofer willing to give me all the boots he pulls off. (Any word on the quality of this source of lead for reloading?)
I was hoping to get some direction as far as where to start with equipment.
I looked at casting equipment, but there is a LOT of stuff to choose from there and I'm not sure what to start out with.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

As others have stated, roofing lead is high quality stuff.

And another recommendation for the castboolits forum. There is so much information to be had there, it can be a bit overwhelming to get through it all. But if you can think of a question to ask, you'll find that it has already been asked/answered there many times already. I lurked there for quite awhile before posting. Great guys on that forum.

I have yet to cast my first bullet (should cast my first today, actually). I like to study up and educate myself first... much to my wife's amusement; "Honey, I'm going to buy you a new toothbrush next month. Will you start your research now, please?" So I have learned about a few good resources to start with.

The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is decent. Many consider it The Bible for the hobby, but IMO, it is not even close to being as good as the FREE online book (in .pdf format): From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners by Glen E. Fryxell and Robert L. Applegate. Check it out at: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf. The Lyman book does have a lot of load information for various molds, though.

The Lyman book, and From Ingot to Target are great consolidated resources; open them up, and read away. Then if you think of a question not answered in either book, I'm willing to bet you'll find it on castboolits.

There are a great number of sticky threads at castboolits. Overwhelmingly so. But if you take the time to read the titles of them, you'll find that the stickies are an amazing library of casting information. From what pot to buy, where to get alloys, how to measure hardness, how to change hardness, flux information, powder coating, hi-tek coating, tumble lubing (including home made recipes that, according to the members, are better than commercial), to mold information.... the entire hobby is thoroughly covered in the stickies.

So there you have it.. a newb's guide to casting by a fellow newb.

So if you'll excuse me, I'm gonna go cast my first boolit! Now if I just had a toothbrush...

Edit: Just realized I kinda danced around your question without really giving any direct answers. Now remember, I have yet to cast my first bullet. So take what I say with a grain of flux.

What is your budget? Are you going to be casting en masse, or are you going to be casting for bench rest? Handguns? Rifles? Both? Quite a few questions need to be answered before you can really get specific on what stuff you need to buy. So some generic suggestions...

Since you're going to be starting out with roofing lead, you're going to need to melt it and add tin/antimony to the alloy. Most guys recommend that you don't do this in your casting pot. So you'll want to start off by visiting your local thrift store and buying a stainless steel pot. doesn't have to be big or fancy, just something that will hold a decent quantity of lead. You'll also want to pick up a large metal spoon, a metal ladle and a hot plate while you're there. You could also use a camp stove, or other heat source, but electric hot plates work well, and they're cheap (like me).

As for your casting furnace, again, this is greatly dependent on your budget. I was lucky in that my Dad gave me an ancient bottom pour furnace that he's had since the early '60's.

You're going to want a "bottom pour" furnace. Lee makes one that notoriously drips a lot, but holds 20 pounds of molten alloy, and does so for only 70 bucks. This is one of those pieces of equipment that some guys swear by, others at.

On the other end of the spectrum are the Lyman Mag 25 and the RCBS Pro Melt. The Lyman is around 265 bucks, and the RCBS around 350 or so. I've read a lot about these two furnaces, and the consensus I get is that the RCBS is a better product. Especially if you plan on using Lyman six cavity molds at some point (are you casting en masse?)

Molds: Before you start looking at molds, you need to ask yourself what you want to do with each caliber you cast for. Massive amounts of Blammo? Bench resting out to 1,000 yards? Each question will result in a different product suiting it's need. For high precision loading, you'll want to research custom mold makers. For mass quantities of, say, 9mm blasting ammo, you'll most likely want a six cavity Lee mold in a Tumble Lube (vs lube groove) design. Whatever you do, RESEARCH first, before you buy a mold. Are you going to use a lubrasizer? Tumble lube (including its variants of powder coating, hi-tek coating, and the like)? Answer those questions, then read up on the various choices.

Since you'll be needing to harden up your roofing lead (and might I just add that I'm insanely jealous of your free lead source) by adding tin/antimony, a good place to buy Linotype, Monotype, Hardball, and Super Hard alloys is RotoMetals. They have a section of their web site that is devoted to bullet casting. Good stuff, but their prices are steep. As to how much you'll need to add to get the correct hardness, that's just something you'll have to read up on and learn by trial and error. I just melted my first batch of used wheel weights yesterday. Today I'm going to check the hardness of them, then most likely re-melt them and add some RotoMetals Super Hard if necessary. I also cheated and bought Lyman #2 Alloy from them so I could start off with some known-good alloy for my first bullets cast.

Have fun, and be careful. :)
 
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Welcome to this fascinating aspect of the shooting sports. I recommend you read a lot before you start to cast. One thing---if you are casting for a 223, roofing lead is going to be too soft and you will likely get excessive leading. While it is basically true that "hard is not better", there is a place where it shines. That said, probably the most important thing is that the bullet "fits" the particular firearm it will be used in. Your bullet should be sized to FIT the throat through which it will pass. Personally for 223, I want the hardest, well fitted bullet I can produce. Have fun!
 
Thanks for the input and encouragement.
I must admit, I am intrigued by the idea of casting for .223, I was not aware that could be done. Can you use them in an AR without leading up the gas tube like .22lr kits will?

I was always told it can't be done, but I assure you it can, and it works great. I imagine leading could be a problem with regular lubed lead. However, I powder coat all my boolits. With the coating, I've never had a problem with any leading in the barrel or gas tube. I have also shot these up to 2800fps with no problems, and I have loads to test that should be even faster than that. Basically, full jacketed velocities.

Shooting cast in ARs drops the cost of rounds significantly. Definitely something to consider for cheap shooting.
 
Matter of interest, how does one test the hardness of the material?

Lee makes a BHN tester. If you buy odd ingots & whatnot from a scrapper it's really a necessary item. Otherwise you're just guessing. The website castboolits has everything you need to know about casting safely. It's not particularly dangerous if done right but if done wrong your day can go sideways in a hurry. Youtube has a lot of videos but take them with a healthy grain of salt... Missouri Bullets' website has an excellent quick & dirty tutorial on suitable BHN for different applications. There are also charts available that go into a lot more detail.
 
Quick question on the powder coating, I have not done any reloading or casting but I have been looking into it. I have read about casting your own bullets and many people recommend to 'slug' the barrel of your gun to get the proper size. Is this still a necessary step when using powder coated bullets? My concern is I have 2 different 9mm handguns and I would like to be able to reload cast bullets to use in either gun.
For me..I size 9MM lead projectiles to .357" matters not if they are lubed with grease/wax or powder coated. They shoot well out of several Glocks, and several CZ's...Bill.
 
All the above is good info. When I began casting a buddy suggested trying to get as close to the mold weight with your mix as possible. By doing this you get close to the right hardness needed. Then add in tin/antimony to get a hard/full cast bullet. I finally broke down a bought on Ebay a Saeco hardness tester. I now mix what I think is a good alloy in my RCBS bottom pour and cast a few air/water dropped bullets. I then cast that pot full into ingots. I let the bullets sit for a couple of days then check the hardness. I mark the ingots with a marker with the tested hardness. When the pot is empty I fill it again with a new mix and start over. Should the ingots need adjusting after the mix it is easy to add a little of what is needed. I recently started to use Hi Tek coating with great results. You should look on E Bay for equipment as you can get some great deals. Good luck and take safety measures with molten lead.
 
I've been casting for 46 years, and use cast bullets in just about every gun I own.

I suggest you start out simply......buy inexpensive Lee moulds, and use their liquid Alox, and perhaps their push through sizers if required. I say this because you are embarking on a potentially very complicated journey, and there's no sense in burying yourself in technical details all at once. Not only that, but doing it this way is cheap, and easily reversible if you decide you don't like it. For $75 you can buy the mould and sizer, and use a cheap heat source you may already have, or can buy cheap at Goodwill.
 
Read as much you can on the castboolits forum as you can, 9mm requires a pretty hard bullet because of the pressure it uses. The rest of the guys pretty well covered everything for starting and castbbolits has many threads on more advanced questions. Have heard lots of good about the Lee 6 cavity moulds but not so much about some of their others. NOE gets my money these days.
 
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. Needed to be bigger.
It's essential to have a well ventilated place to cast too. Used to shoot with a guy who did it in his closed garage. That combined with his job(Ontario Hydro engineer. Power Co.) caused him to get lead poisoning. Had to stop shooting completely for 6 months.
 
Ok, I have the Lyman book on order. I plan to wait until I have it and have read it before I look at ordering any equipment.
As to what I was looking at reloading for, specifically: I though that some cast 9mm and .357 would be useful , not really looking at doing precision competition with them, more IDPA & IPSC. Also now that I know it can be done, I want to look at .224 projectiles. While I am on the .223 bullets I have another question about that. Do I roll crimp those, or taper crimp like I normally do?
Now, what I REALLY want to cast (eventually) are some heavy projectiles for my 460S&W. There are a multitude of loads for bullet weights all the way up to 500gr, but no one who really sells bullets heavier than 300gr that wont just get obliterated by the pressure. Having done some preliminary reading as suggested it looks like hard cast with gas checks is going to be where I am headed.
 
Ok, I have the Lyman book on order. I plan to wait until I have it and have read it before I look at ordering any equipment.
As to what I was looking at reloading for, specifically: I though that some cast 9mm and .357 would be useful , not really looking at doing precision competition with them, more IDPA & IPSC. Also now that I know it can be done, I want to look at .224 projectiles. While I am on the .223 bullets I have another question about that. Do I roll crimp those, or taper crimp like I normally do?
Now, what I REALLY want to cast (eventually) are some heavy projectiles for my 460S&W. There are a multitude of loads for bullet weights all the way up to 500gr, but no one who really sells bullets heavier than 300gr that wont just get obliterated by the pressure. Having done some preliminary reading as suggested it looks like hard cast with gas checks is going to be where I am headed.

If you normally taper crimp, I would just continue that. No real reason that I can see to roll crimp those rounds specifically. You don't need much anyway. Basically just enough crimp to remove the bell from the mouth. I've loaded them in all various ways, with and without crimp and never had a problem with setback. Personally, I just use a Factory Crimp Die on all my 223, cast or jacketed, but that's just because I have one and I find it easier.
 
Lyman Manual, and what 454 PB wrote. I started small 42yrs ago. Still have the Lee starter kit , but not the 100 gaschecks or bullet lube!!!

Don't take everything Lyman says as gospel.
Marlin MicroGroove barrels can be VERY accurate with cast. The .30's need to be sized to.311-312" though.

Strongly recommend you go to gunloads.castboolits.com
Welcome to the fraternity!
 
I've been casting for 46 years, and use cast bullets in just about every gun I own.

I suggest you start out simply......buy inexpensive Lee moulds, and use their liquid Alox, and perhaps their push through sizers if required. I say this because you are embarking on a potentially very complicated journey, and there's no sense in burying yourself in technical details all at once. Not only that, but doing it this way is cheap, and easily reversible if you decide you don't like it. For $75 you can buy the mould and sizer, and use a cheap heat source you may already have, or can buy cheap at Goodwill.

Good advice. I went the other direction, Lyman mag 20 pot, RCBs bullet lube and sizer, heater for the sizer, RCBS, Lyman and H&G molds, blah, blah blah.
Today after 40 years, and age 75, I use Lee push through sizers with liquid Alox and 6 cavity molds. If it made a difference on down range bullet holes I'm not a good enough pistoleer to see the difference. Just saying
 
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