What do you guys think about these hand reloading kits?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P...A58pdxNjaWDh9xB45GJBKKn2nrgwvM5cU6HtH7rVnbX8Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P...A58pdxNjaWDh9xB45GJBKKn2nrgwvM5cU6HtH7rVnbX8Q
thinking about getting into reloading
- Thread starter javjacob
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A single stage press might serve you better. Hand tools are so slow... I have a Lyman 310 but rarely use it except for experiments with new powders.. Look into the 310, it might be better for field use.. Though I rarely use it, I am happy to own one..
Gil
Gil
WestKentucky
Member
Good equipment is money well spent. There isn't a whole lot out there that isn't good either. Since your just starting you need to go slow, so single stage kits are where you need to look, be it a hand press or a bench mounted press. I have not heard any folks tickled pink by the hand press, but I have heard of people satisfied with it while they are in a position where they can't do a bench due to size. You can use a bench mounted press on a 2x6 with a c clamp to hold it to a kitchen table if your so inclined.
Look for:
Lee classic cast kit (ungodly strong, will handle anything up to .50bmg, but at a good price point)
Rcbs (any model press) (awesome warranty)
Avoid:
Lee breech lock challenger (cast aluminum, side to side deflection will break it)
Lee C frame press...cheapest on the market, but very thin cast aluminum. Works well, but doesn't handle heavy work well. OK for pistol, not for rifle.
Other C frame presses...generally a weaker design than O frame.
If your worried about initial investment, quit worrying. Look at grafs website for reasonable prices on new equipment, then compare to used equipment on ebay. The common stuff holds its value really well. The less common it gets the less it holds its value unless it's a sought after item.
Let me know what you plan to load and I may be able to scrape up a goody bag to help get you going.
Look for:
Lee classic cast kit (ungodly strong, will handle anything up to .50bmg, but at a good price point)
Rcbs (any model press) (awesome warranty)
Avoid:
Lee breech lock challenger (cast aluminum, side to side deflection will break it)
Lee C frame press...cheapest on the market, but very thin cast aluminum. Works well, but doesn't handle heavy work well. OK for pistol, not for rifle.
Other C frame presses...generally a weaker design than O frame.
If your worried about initial investment, quit worrying. Look at grafs website for reasonable prices on new equipment, then compare to used equipment on ebay. The common stuff holds its value really well. The less common it gets the less it holds its value unless it's a sought after item.
Let me know what you plan to load and I may be able to scrape up a goody bag to help get you going.
WestKentucky
Member
And I have a couple of those kits...they don't get used for a reason. It's what I learned on, and they do work, but don't expect to be cranking out any volumes enough to save you the initial investment. In a single setting the best I ever did was about 100 rds.
gwpercle
Member
A lot of us got started with the Lee Classic Kit , I did in 1967 and they do work , I've reloaded thousands of 38 special and 45 acp with them , also a very good way to see whats goes into reloading and get your feet wet at a reasonable cost . Just read and follow the directions.
In 1967 the kits were $9.99 . Today they sell for $28.99. Even though I now have 5 presses I still have my Lee Classic Kits that got me going and use them now and again .
Gary
In 1967 the kits were $9.99 . Today they sell for $28.99. Even though I now have 5 presses I still have my Lee Classic Kits that got me going and use them now and again .
Gary
WestKentucky
Member
And I keep a bucket in the truck in case I drive out of my way randomly to find a range.
Great choice to get into reloading!
A few caveats... if you are not mechanically inclined or have ADHD and cannot pay close attention to the details of what you are doing, then Handloading is NOT for you.
If you are still here after reading the caveat, then get the Speer Reloading Manual #14 (the latest) and read it carefully a few times over. This manual will give you a very good education on Handloading. Another good resource is the ABC's of Reloading...excellent book and well worth a careful study.
After studying these books and gaining more confidence, you can look into equipment.
You will need a reloading bench that is solid and stable, with some draws/cabinets where you can safely store your equipment. There are plenty of low cost options on the market.
I started with the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. That kit has everything you need to start reloading. The Rock Chucker is a single stage press, which I believe is the best place to start. You do one operation at a time and you will learn a lot. Also, a good single stage press is a great investment, since you will continue to use it for a lifetime, esp. for rifle ammo and various other operations.
As to dies, I've found Lee Dies to be very cost effective and an excellent investment. They come with the shellholder included and give you a powder dipper, which is very useful for working up loads.
Handloading straight wall pistol cases, like the 38 Special/357 Magnum is the way to go. They are the easiest to handload.
No need to get too crazy spending a lot of money on equipment to start. These recommendations will get you going nicely.
Let us know how you progress and there are a lot of us here who can help you along the way.
Stay safe...
A few caveats... if you are not mechanically inclined or have ADHD and cannot pay close attention to the details of what you are doing, then Handloading is NOT for you.
If you are still here after reading the caveat, then get the Speer Reloading Manual #14 (the latest) and read it carefully a few times over. This manual will give you a very good education on Handloading. Another good resource is the ABC's of Reloading...excellent book and well worth a careful study.
After studying these books and gaining more confidence, you can look into equipment.
You will need a reloading bench that is solid and stable, with some draws/cabinets where you can safely store your equipment. There are plenty of low cost options on the market.
I started with the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. That kit has everything you need to start reloading. The Rock Chucker is a single stage press, which I believe is the best place to start. You do one operation at a time and you will learn a lot. Also, a good single stage press is a great investment, since you will continue to use it for a lifetime, esp. for rifle ammo and various other operations.
As to dies, I've found Lee Dies to be very cost effective and an excellent investment. They come with the shellholder included and give you a powder dipper, which is very useful for working up loads.
Handloading straight wall pistol cases, like the 38 Special/357 Magnum is the way to go. They are the easiest to handload.
No need to get too crazy spending a lot of money on equipment to start. These recommendations will get you going nicely.
Let us know how you progress and there are a lot of us here who can help you along the way.
Stay safe...
Thanks for all the help!
Question on the manuals... they have several different editions like 1st, 2nd, 50th ect and I don't know what that means?
I think I will start with just the 357mag since the component prices don't look like the savings will be too much with the 9mm.
For 357mag do I need the "small pistol magnum" primers?
For bullets do I just need to get "38 caliber" or "357" or is it all the same?
I think I will start out with the Lee classic and work my way up from there? I think that will be my best way to get started cheap and learn taking my time one step at a time.
What powder do you recommend for 357 plinking?
Last question of the day... what is the best brass cleaning method? Media tumber?
Sorry for all the questions.
Question on the manuals... they have several different editions like 1st, 2nd, 50th ect and I don't know what that means?
I think I will start with just the 357mag since the component prices don't look like the savings will be too much with the 9mm.
For 357mag do I need the "small pistol magnum" primers?
For bullets do I just need to get "38 caliber" or "357" or is it all the same?
I think I will start out with the Lee classic and work my way up from there? I think that will be my best way to get started cheap and learn taking my time one step at a time.
What powder do you recommend for 357 plinking?
Last question of the day... what is the best brass cleaning method? Media tumber?
Sorry for all the questions.
The editions are just like editions of any other non-fiction book: they get revised from time to time with new data, new powders, new bullets. Buy the most current edition.
As for the rest, the manuals will answer most of that. Seriously, STOP EVERYTHING AND READ THE MANUAL FIRST.
As for the rest, the manuals will answer most of that. Seriously, STOP EVERYTHING AND READ THE MANUAL FIRST.
Patocazador
Member
Don't think about it, DO it!
thomas15
Member
The issue regarding handloading 9mm is hotly debated on the interwebs. I handload 9mm for two reasons, the first is my club has pistol night on Thursday and in the winter we use an indoor range that doesn't allow jacketed ammo. Second, I shoot competitions and thus consume quite a bit of 9mm ammo. So it really comes down to how much ammo you consume.
I shoot .357 revolvers but only load 38 special brass. Again if you only shoot 50 rounds per month then why bother reloading? I personally don't know anyone that shoots 500 rounds of .357 magnum loads per month. But I'm not the last word on these kind of things. I would suggest that you consider loading some 38 light target loads to get some experience before you start making magnum loads. Just a suggestion.
As far as bullets size it depends. Your going to have to experiment a bit with different bullets, sizes, shapes, weight and material. Same for powders. If you talk to 10 different handloaders you will get a minimum of 10 opinions.
Here is an example of one of my loads. This is for entertainment only (disclamer)
I load for a S&W 686 with a 4" barrel, 7 pound DA trigger. I use mixed 38 special brass, 147g xtreme .357 (9mm) plated RN bullets, 3.3g Hodgdon Titegroup, Federal #100 primers OAL is 1.500
Note: because I have a light trigger I MUST use Federal primers and I must make sure that the primers are seated below flush.
Again, unless you are shooting at least 400 rounds/months saving money will probably be an illusion, a lofty goal that you never reach. Having said that I view handloadng as a hobby and don't do it to save money. At the volume I shoot I do save but I have a ton of money invested in components and hardware. I'm not trying to discourage you, on the contrary, but you mention saving money, put that out of your mind for now and your life will be easier and less stressful.
I shoot .357 revolvers but only load 38 special brass. Again if you only shoot 50 rounds per month then why bother reloading? I personally don't know anyone that shoots 500 rounds of .357 magnum loads per month. But I'm not the last word on these kind of things. I would suggest that you consider loading some 38 light target loads to get some experience before you start making magnum loads. Just a suggestion.
As far as bullets size it depends. Your going to have to experiment a bit with different bullets, sizes, shapes, weight and material. Same for powders. If you talk to 10 different handloaders you will get a minimum of 10 opinions.
Here is an example of one of my loads. This is for entertainment only (disclamer)
I load for a S&W 686 with a 4" barrel, 7 pound DA trigger. I use mixed 38 special brass, 147g xtreme .357 (9mm) plated RN bullets, 3.3g Hodgdon Titegroup, Federal #100 primers OAL is 1.500
Note: because I have a light trigger I MUST use Federal primers and I must make sure that the primers are seated below flush.
Again, unless you are shooting at least 400 rounds/months saving money will probably be an illusion, a lofty goal that you never reach. Having said that I view handloadng as a hobby and don't do it to save money. At the volume I shoot I do save but I have a ton of money invested in components and hardware. I'm not trying to discourage you, on the contrary, but you mention saving money, put that out of your mind for now and your life will be easier and less stressful.
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thomas15
Member
As for brass cleaning there are many methods. I use a vibratory tumbler with lizard bedding and a capful of NU-CAR finish and cap of mineral spirits. My bench is in an unheated garage so wet tumbling would be a pain. Some who wet tumble get fantastic results but the way I do it is fine for me.
thomas15
Member
Regarding presses if you think that you might handload for rifle then consider a good single stage press to learn on. By good I mean an RCBS Rockchucker, Hornady LnL or Redding The Boss. If your going to handload only for pistol get a progressive right from the start and save yourself a lot of mental anguish later on. Progressive presses to consider are the Dillon 550 or 650 or the Hornady LNL AP. I suggest a good beam scale, by good I mean one that costs at least $80.00
Keep in mind that misery loves company. I truly believe that many handloaders make equipment recommendations to newbs because they want company. It is true that you can make ammo with very inexpensive hardware. It is not true that you can make a lot of ammo quickly with inexpensive hardware.
Keep in mind that misery loves company. I truly believe that many handloaders make equipment recommendations to newbs because they want company. It is true that you can make ammo with very inexpensive hardware. It is not true that you can make a lot of ammo quickly with inexpensive hardware.
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thomas15
Member
I will answer that question with another question. What do you think about getting a root canal or a spinal tap?
See my question above.
I'm in person a nice guy but when you ask for opinions I give mine without holding back. Doesn't make me popular but in truth I don't care if what you buy as long as it makes you happy that is what counts.
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Please just buy the manuals and study them carefully, then come back and ask your questions. Trust me on this.
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