Thinking about Switching

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miamivicedade

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Hi All -

I have been reading a lot lately about two major CLP options on the market. Break Free CLP and Weapon Shield are two of the more popular CLP options and I was wondering what you all thought of them. I know there are threads on this already, but some are from a year or two back, and I have heard that Break Free CLP is now with Safariland. Although many threads praise it, I am wondering how it is now.

What are the pluses and minuses of both options?
 
Hi All -

I have been reading a lot lately about two major CLP options on the market. Break Free CLP and Weapon Shield are two of the more popular CLP options and I was wondering what you all thought of them. I know there are threads on this already, but some are from a year or two back, and I have heard that Break Free CLP is now with Safariland. Although many threads praise it, I am wondering how it is now.

What are the pluses and minuses of both options?
I used both at one time or another. In fact I currently have both on hand. I like both of them.
I also use FP-10 for my stainless pisols.
 
I've only used Break Free CLP, so I have no perspective on how it rates against the other products out there. I've been meaning to try Ballistol actually... but I already have so many cans of CLP lingering around my house, I can't seem to use the stuff up.

I think the last can of CLP I picked up was branded Safariland. Their website does mention CLP:

http://www.safariland.com/NewsPressDetail.aspx?Id=109
 
I use LPS2 which I am sure is the same stuff as Breakfree. It smells and looks the same. I have never had a rust problem using them. For grease, I use Militec or Rig.....chris3
 
Interesting. I happen to still have a jug of ATF in my garage...

Anyway, I've solely used CLP except when lubricating my M1 Carbine for cold-weather use. Works very well.
 
Hey, I use Corrosion-X. It has turned my gun rusting problem around. Check out their web site. The video advertisement in the hardware store really caught my attention. My outboard engine and fishing reels have thanked me often also. It just smells a little funky for a little while.
 
I haven't used these products, but I've used Eezox which sounds similar, and I've been impressed with it so far.

http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/eezox-gc.html

I was given an old .22 Winchester last year that had been disassembled in the the 80s and was stored in an open box in the garage, and pretty much everything except the inside of the barrel was rusted. Since it didn't hold too much sentimental value and had no monetary value, I disassembled everything and took the bench grinder wire brush to it and removed all the rust, and it was left with no finish and some pitted metal. I wiped it down with Eezox, let it dry and put it all back together. I'm not particular about it when I handle it and fire it, and have not cleaned it again after a few hundred rounds, and have found no signs of rust or other problems.

It's not much to look at because of the pitting and no finish, and I may yet go back and do something else to improve the appearance of the gun, but for now it is back in working condition and I'm curious how long it can go without a cleaning or re-lube.


I'm running my new Springfield XDM with nothing but Eezox, and have had no malfunctions after hundreds of rounds. I think it fouls less since it's dry, and it doesn't seem to need cleaning so much. It's a tool, and I take care of it, but I clean it when I think it needs it, and not just because I put a box of ammo through it.
 
I started using Breakfree CLP when I went into the military in 1985. I have used it ever since. If it is good enough for the military then it is good enough for me.
 
Speaking of bears and grease and all, quite some time ago, we'd slather our boots with home rendered tallow. smelly times around the campfire!
 
I got given some real rendered bear grease and it seems like it's really good for leather.I like break free on the metal, or WD 40, if I'm out.
 
I gotta admit to using BreakFree almost exclusively now. Used to use Hoppes stuff, but got seriously disenchanted when they sold out to Uncle Mikes and products turned to junk. Have been known to use the oil/ATF mix when running low or going high rounds count before next anticipated cleaning. That and grease.
 
Weapon Shield works fine as a general CLP for me, and it's low in toxicity and doesn't smell bad (a big plus for some folks, including me). I've tried other products, just for kicks (as honestly most gun care doesn't really require specialized products), but keep coming back to Weapon Shield. I also use the grease version on slide rails, and that works great, too.

For that matter, I used one or the other on various hinges and other rotating/sliding metal parts around my home five years ago, and have not had a squeak or seize since then; previously, I'd had to re-lubricate every year or so. So yeah, this stuff works--and very well.

Its weakest point is probably as a cleaner, but it's always worked well enough for me, as I tend to keep all of my firearms clean. As a rust inhibitor, it's up there with the better oils, and as a lubricant it's top-notch.
 
I don't know about bear grease, but sperm whale oil was the original specified 1911 lubricant - and the original high tech lubricant. The first ATF's were attempts to duplicate it. (Too bad the government didn't get involved - we'd have a Bureau of Automatic Transmission Fluid Engineering, and our relationship with BATFE would be very different.)

There are actually some very good arguments for using ATF that go beyond just anecdotes. I have used CLP, but am considering a switch. This article has some very good background on the engineering that goes into selecting a oil or grease. Might be a good basis for making a more informed decision on what products to use:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
 
I Bought an Uberti SAA in the white engraved. Just hold in front of you and you can watch it rusting before your eyes. The product that finally stopped the rust in its tracks was Eezox. No, I don't work for them.
 
CLP and Breakfree are what I have used for 10-15 yrs, before it was tri-flow, someone told me they still sell it. And prior to that when I lived in NY, just good old hoppes.
 
Does CLP replace both Hoppe's #9 and Rem oil? That's my current cleaning process. Any advantage to sticking with the two step process?
 
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