Thinking of going to Montana....

Status
Not open for further replies.
CB900Fand phoglund have it about right. I'm a "boomeranger" who spent about 20 years in the Bay Area and returned to Bozeman in '93. Very, very friendly gun culture here. I had a CCW for some years, but it was just redundant. I'll renew because I can, though. Bozeman, too, seems to have Berekely aspirations, though maybe not as much so as Missoula. If you're in high tech and need to be connected locally, Missoula and Bozeman's universities will be a significant draw for you. Other MT towns (and yes, they are all towns) have some MSU/UM affiliations, but MSU/UM in their home towns are the queen bees of the state system.

Housing prices are insane. Bring a lot of money if you want to live in a boom town like Bozeman. Go out further, say a 30--40 min. commute, and you can do much better. Don't forget to factor in winter driving commutes and how far out your nerves can take you.

In high tech also check out Zoot Enterprises. They're one of the largest employers in the area and have a great corporate culture, benefits, and competitive salaries. Speaking of, be prepared for some jaw-dropping pay cuts. I still make about 50% of my Bay Area salary, adjusted for inflation. But if you're a zany entreprenuerial guy you may do quite well.

So many out of state types have, sadly, helped create an ever-widening zone between the haves and have-nots. This place may never be an Aspen but it sure looks like we're heading that way. The cowtown days are way gone. If you haven't lived in a place like this you'll wonder what all the fuss is over growth, etc. It's still Big Sky Country, after all. But stay long enough and the growth will probably break your heart. Good luck.

Ross
 
It gets cold but I like that. Billings gets some good wind. I remember as a 4th grader the school I went had a side of the building, the west side, that was totally covered by a snow drift.
 
They just about have it nailed.
I love Montana and I'll be back.
But, don't go trying to change it.
and bring your own job
the wages are low, the taxes are high and it's worth every penny.
small town living (and they are all small towns) is different, get used to it.

Winters can get long, and it can get a wee chilly. But you get used to it.
Make sure your car has a block heater before winter.

Butte/Anaconda is dying, the only jobs there are government jobs and everyone is leaving. It is amazing to go there and see the mountain that is no more.

Rocky Mtns and west gets more Seattle like weather (lots of clouds, snow)

east gets more Denver style weather, cold, dry, lots of sun and wind.

The weather can change in a heartbeat.

Spring, all 5 days of it, is jaw droppingly beautiful.
 
the results are in...

Vistited Billings, Bozeman, Butte, Three Forks, Helena, Missoula and Hamilton.

Loved Three Forks, complete Americana!
Billings was nice, it had a nice flavor to it.
Bozeman, aka BozeAngeles, had a distinct Santa Monica flavor to it. Watch out folks so you don't get a slice of the Peoples Republik of Kali-fonia going in your own backyard.
Butte.....ergh....what happened? Did not like it at all.
Helena, old money smell, did not visit it enough, but had a great downtown.
Missoula and Hamilton were o.k. with me and the Mrs', but things seemed a bit drier there than the Bozeman area.

The Mrs. would love to live in Bozeman, as it is most likely we both can find jobs there. Personally I would love to live in 3 forks, but only time will tell.

Anywho, if we can find jobs, we are moving.
 
three forks is pretty cool, a lot drier, it's a good 500/1000 feet lower than Bozeman, Bozeman gets a lot more snow.
The range is right there on the exit between 3 forks and Manhatten.

Missoula is MUCH more liberal than anyplace else in the state.
Also, Missoula is MUCH wetter and cloudier than Bozeman. Bozeman is in the banana belt of Montana (really). A one day visit in the summer tells you nothing, but I wanted you be aware.

Butte can be intriguing, in it's own little ways.

Don't expect California wages, Montana wages are very low and the cost of living isn't all that much lower, just be aware to be shocked at the wages.
 
Good luck 686+. I like Three Forks, I could live there.

All the mountain valleys are semi-arid. The high mountains get all the precipitation. Bozeman does get more than the lower valley, it is right up against the mountains.

Butte was a rough town, and the open pit mine swallowed up half the old city. It has a lot of old architecture (and cheap properties), and was a Democratic union town, still is, just not as strongly so. Still, having spent time on the streets collecting signatures, I do believe Butte has the friendliest people in the state.

If you can telecommute, you can get very reasonable properties as long as you are outside commuting distance to someplace like Bozeman.
 
My wife grew up in Great Falls and the only place she talks about being interested in is Helena.
I'll be looking to fill the freezer when we're back in Great Falls for Thanksgiving (it helps to have your own personal hunting guide (FIL) who's been there for 40+ years).

On a negative note, casino-itis has infected the state very badly.
 
Helena is a nice town, the state gov't takes care of itself. It's surrounded by mountains and near Canyon Ferry reservoir on the Missouri.

I don't think Gardiner has changed a lot. It's still a gateway town to the Park.
 
I was in Gardiner two weeks ago. Still no chain restaurants. One grocery store. I didn't look but I suspect the stores sell much the same tourist stuff they did 30 years ago. Of course it's now made in China instead of Japan or Mexico.
 
Belgrade is nice

I am originally from Belgrade/Bozeman. If you are interested, you may check out Manhattan, which used to be home to the Oasis Bar and Grill, home of the best steak anywhere. Not sure if its still there.

We recently sold our ranch down Springhill Road. Prices for homes and ranches near Bozeman will astound you. Bring lots of cash. I will tell you, Bozeman USED to be a great place to live, but now that it has been California, the taxes have gone through the roof and there are Bistros on every corner. Even the Army/Navy store has gone wussy.

If you can live anywhere, try Hamilton, or Ennis, etc. Dillon might be an option even. Helena isn't a bad city, but the road layout was designed by a sadist with a bad toothache.

I truly am glad that I was raised in MT. I went to Belgrade High and Montana State. I am truly sorry to see what that area of the state has become.

If you like wide open spaces and tons of Prairie Poodle hunting, try the eastern parts of the state.
 
Third Rail;

I moved my son out of Helena last weekend. The town is growing like a weed - on steroids. Most of the growth is fueled by out-of-staters coming in. The entire valley floor is either being developed, or will be soon.

Look to Lewistown for old Montana.

900F
 
Well, I don't really have a choice. If I move to MT, it'll be in/around Helena; that's where the company is opening up shop. :)


I just want to know if it'll be liveable for a few years at the least; for comparison, I find CT and MA liveable enough.
 
If you want real Montana, then try the central and eastern part. Not as postcard pretty, but it kind of grows on you after a while.

A small town in Montana is a bar, a school, and a post office (the school and post office are optional ;) ).

I hate going to Billings, but really it is a pretty nice place as cities go. It has a lot available there because it is so far from anything and is the shopping and medical center for parts of several states. Traffic is horrible there now because of the recent growth, but once you get off the street there is a small town friendliness in most of the stores.

I think the guy that bought the place behind me would be willing to sell - he lives on the east coast and had a heart attack last fall and hasn't been back out here since.
 
Third;

On the other hand, I'd rather admit to having V.D. than live in Billings. I do live in Great Falls Montana though.

Helena has some very nice amenities, not the least of which is the Prickly Pear range up on McDonald pass, U.S. 12. Live in Rimini, commute the 8 miles or so into Helena proper. And the Brew Pub would be on the way home too!

900F
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top