I'm starting to learn more & more about S&W revolvers. So far I've learned that the model 19 (a .357 mag) would rather eat 38 specials but will do the mags once in a while. For some reason I shoot the model 10 the best out of any handgun ever. I want to get in to a magnum that will get shot a lot. The model 13 looks to be built on the same frame as the model 10. Will the 13 fall apart after a steady magnum diet too? Or should I be looking at the 27 & 28's?
This one for Model 13 affictionados (S&W)
- Thread starter rayman
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The M13 (and other K Frame Smith .357's) will most likely stand up to more full house .357 loads than you will ever put thru one. There may have been a problem firing hot 125 gr. ammo, as loaded in the 70's and 80's, that caused forcing cone errosion and flame cutting of the top strap in some K models. A K frame will shot loose sooner than the larger N frame, but in practical terms its unlikely you will wear either one out. Like you I really like the M10, and I think the M65, in 3" (a stainless M13) is just about the prefect carry revolver. I have shoot a bunch of full power .357 loads thru my M66 (a stainless M19) with nary a problem and it still locks up tight as ever.
On the other hand, everyone needs a nice Highway Patrolman and the M27 is nicer still, though both are a bit heavy and big in my opinion to carry all day.
On the other hand, everyone needs a nice Highway Patrolman and the M27 is nicer still, though both are a bit heavy and big in my opinion to carry all day.
Black Knight
Member
The K-frame .357's have been discontinued by S&W. There was a report many years ago that if fed a constant diet of hot magnum rounds that the some of the frames stretched. This is why S&W developed the L-frame. If you are going to shoot alot of magnum loads I would recommend an L-frame. Check out the S&W 581, 586, 681, 686, 686+. These will take the constant use. They are heavier and will help in dampening the recoil. I carried a 686 doing security work for many years. Check them out on S&W's website.
wcwhitey
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I have never personally seen a K frame self destruct because it ate mostly magnums. Not saying it has never happened. However, it is my understanding that this was mostly due to the 110/125 grain bullets which increased forcing cone errosion and gas cutting to the top straps. Anyway, unless the gun is already been abused, it is unlikely that it will self destruct any time soon. JMHO. Bill
earplug
Member
Get a L Frame.
I own the stainless version of the M13, A M65. Its a practice with light loads, carry with a magnum type revolver. A fine one at that.
If you want to shoot lots of 357 Magnums in A S&W, I'd buy a L frame.
The N frames are big, heavy and really don't do anything better in .357 then a L frame. Unless you have one of the newer 8 shot guns.
I had a M-27 and enjoyed it, they develop end shake and loosen up with lots of shooting, just as any S&W will do. The cylinder notches will start to peen over with lots of DA shooting due to the rotational weight of the cylinder. You will burn up about 15 pounds of powder before this happens.
I now limit my shooting to reduced power loads, except to use up and rotate my carry ammo.
Its not just the revolver that suffers from magnums, its you hands and wrists that develop problems.
I own the stainless version of the M13, A M65. Its a practice with light loads, carry with a magnum type revolver. A fine one at that.
If you want to shoot lots of 357 Magnums in A S&W, I'd buy a L frame.
The N frames are big, heavy and really don't do anything better in .357 then a L frame. Unless you have one of the newer 8 shot guns.
I had a M-27 and enjoyed it, they develop end shake and loosen up with lots of shooting, just as any S&W will do. The cylinder notches will start to peen over with lots of DA shooting due to the rotational weight of the cylinder. You will burn up about 15 pounds of powder before this happens.
I now limit my shooting to reduced power loads, except to use up and rotate my carry ammo.
Its not just the revolver that suffers from magnums, its you hands and wrists that develop problems.
jad0110
Member
If you decide on a K-Frame, just stick to using 158 grain ammo, sparingly, and it should be fine.
I do have a 686+ and love it, fine gun! An N frame would be sweet too.
Don't count out the Ruger GP100 and used Speed/Security/Service Six either.
I do have a 686+ and love it, fine gun! An N frame would be sweet too.
Don't count out the Ruger GP100 and used Speed/Security/Service Six either.
JERRY
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i have a 4" model 13, used to be a Montreal Canadian Police gun.....
mechanically its in pretty good shape, but ive had to spot reblue it a few times now to keep rust from coming back......
would gladly trade it for a s.s. model 64 in .38spl since i keep it stoked with .38spl loads anyway.....
mechanically its in pretty good shape, but ive had to spot reblue it a few times now to keep rust from coming back......
would gladly trade it for a s.s. model 64 in .38spl since i keep it stoked with .38spl loads anyway.....
Confederate
Member
Get a Ruger Security-Six. It's the size of a K-frame, but will take many, many more thousands of rounds without parts replacement or warping of the frame. Having a solid frame made this one of the most robust .357s ever designed. It's cylinder also has the notches offset so they're not directly over the chambers and the topstrap is massive.
If you don't mind the weight, the Smith 686s are also fine revolvers. The K-frames were designed for .38s, but revised to take occasional magnum rounds. The SS and 686 were designed to shoot magnums.
The Ruger Security-Six. Although out of
production, it's still a very popular pistol and
can be had for a very reasonable price.
If you don't mind the weight, the Smith 686s are also fine revolvers. The K-frames were designed for .38s, but revised to take occasional magnum rounds. The SS and 686 were designed to shoot magnums.
The Ruger Security-Six. Although out of
production, it's still a very popular pistol and
can be had for a very reasonable price.
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