Tikka rifle "set trigger" question

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spalit

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I just bought my first "real" rifle a week ago. A Tikka T3 in .308 Win. It's got a laminated wood stock; stainless, free-floating, sporter barrel, from the local Gander Mtn. An absolute real beauty it is too.. :p . I topped it off with a Leupold VX-II 4-12XAO scope. My very first time in the range last weekend, my best 3 shot group with Black Hills 168gr match ammo was 1.5" @100 yds, after adjusting for the first flier (I was mopping the barrel with copper solvent every 3 rounds or so)... So I know this rifle can definitely shoot better than me. I've only shot my 10/22 and muzzleloader before this :D

I do have a trigger question about the T3. I love the normal trigger action, very crisp, light < 3 lbs, no overtravel, etc. I understand that to use the "set trigger", I have to push the trigger forward first..? Now, this might sound really silly, but my trigger won't move forward no matter what I do :banghead: . I don't want to damage the action/trigger so I've left off doing anything with it. Am I not understanding the instructions..? Is there some sort of adjustment needed? Do I need to remove the trigger assembly to "enable" use of the set trigger..? Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Who said it had a single set trigger?
Do you have the instructions? Do they SAY it has a single set trigger?
There is no mention of it on the Tikka section of the Beretta website, which describes "The trigger pull is easily adjustable from 2-4 pounds,"
I do not recall a set trigger being mentioned in a magazine article.
 
Well, the instruction booklet has a section for "Standard trigger mechanism" and 'single-set trigger mechanism". Hence my confusion. However, it is possible my model is not equipped with one. The online info is kinda vague..
T3 laminated stainless info

I'm going to assume mine does not have the set-trigger option then? Weird, I thought it was standard on all Tikka T3s..
 
Well, the instruction booklet has a section for "Standard trigger mechanism" and 'single-set trigger mechanism".​

Many instruction booklets are written so that they cover EVERY variation of the rifle made. Even if your booklet discusses a feature, it may not be on your rifle, as that same booklet goes along with the other rifle models, which may have that feature.

So, many/most of the models don't have all the features discussed in the instruction booklet. My Tikka doesn't have a single-set trigger. I don't know if my book discusses one or not.

patent
 
T3's shipped to the US come standard with the regular trigger.

The set trigger is an option, though I don't know who you would go to to get it.

You would know if yours has a set trigger because you would have had to order it with one.

I love my T3 Lite.
Mine is also a .308 and will put the 168 gr Black Hills Match into 0.5" at 100 yards.
Yours will show its true potential soon.
You should post pics, I've never seen pics of the laminated stainless rifles except for in magazines.
If you don't mine me asking, how much did you pay?
 
My instruction manual also mentions a standard trigger and a set trigger. I remember reading that section very carefully and finding some clue that my gun didn't have the set trigger. My guess is that the set trigger setup is popular in some European countries but seldom, if ever, imported here.
 
You would know if your Tikka came with the set trigger. Among other things, it would move forward when you asked it to. :)

As patent said, its a generic instruction book. There will be other odd references, like two different bolt torque settings depending on which one you have. Its up to you to know, I guess. Seems like they could make it clearer, even with the one book.

At least the Tikka manuals actually have the correct info in them. My PSS came with a book for normal 700s, which is wildly wrong on several points, and my 5946 came with a 5906, et. al. manual that does not address any of the DAO workings. Etc.
 
Your Tikka likely does not have a set trigger. You can have one added, but I never saw the need. You can adjust the trigger pull fairly easily.

My Tikka shoots .5 inch groups all day long with normal .308 American Eagle ammo. With a better scope, I think I could definitely trim that down. I have a cheapo scope on it, saving up for something really good.
 
Thanks to everyone for their help.. :) that does clear up a lot of things for me. I have taken some indoor pics which don't look too good. I'll be taking lots pics of it at the range this weekend. As for the no set-trigger, I really don't care. The regular trigger is excellent. Better than the Powercustom upgrade on my 10/22, even felt crisper than a Rem 700 with jewel trigger I got to try out once.

Fumbler, I paid $650 + tax for it at Gander Mtn. I don't think I paid too much, not considering what I got from it. :evil:
 
Yeah, you have two versions of the spec sheet there, one says a single set trigger is available as an option, one doesn't mention it.
I am pretty sure that yours is a plain trigger and that they probably don't import the set triggers to the US. Probably afraid they'd get sued if somebody here set the trigger down to a few ounces and shot his buddy.
 
I'll agree with spalit. I have a Tikka T3 in 300 WSM. I've got a Burris scope on it. SWEEEEEEET trigger. Really lovely and the action is smooth, cartirdges feed beautifully.

It is quite accurate...so far I've not tried any factory loads only 2 or 3 of my handloads...all are 1 MOA or better. I should be able to drive that down.

Best of all I got it from a guy who, after shooting 17 rounds, decided it was too much gun and bought a .243. Sold it to me for $400...I'm happy and hope he is also.
 
>>>>$650 + tax for it at Gander Mtn

Gander mountain typically has pretty good prices on the Tikkas, and I think that's pretty close to the bottom for the version you got with the laminated stock and stainless barrel. Very nice looking gun.

patent
 
Tikka

Hello,
Enjoy your Tikka as they are great rifle , on your trigger if you want to adjust it down lower 2lbs. just turn it counterclock wise until it bottoms against the large mounting bolt (allen head ) that will put you right at 2lbs. with zero creep . here's a pic of my T3 Varmit in 308 this group was done breaking the barrel in . my T3 prefers the 175 SMK to the 168 i will load up some 155 Palmas as see how they fly . the stock on this rifle has been modified , and i opened the channel up alittle more . weighs 12 lbs and i think it will be the best shooting mid range rifle i have .

2 lb. trigger
modified stock
Leuplod MK 4 6.5X20X50 LRT MD
turner sling
i will be taking this rifle on a deer hunt this weekend i will see how well it does.

TargetShooter2

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Mine dosent have one i know. I have a T3 Lite in .30-06. I think 650 might have been a bit much, i payed 500 for mine but maybe it was cheaper because its not stanless and has a synthetic stock?
 
T3 Lite in 30-06 at Wally World: $408. You have to order it, though, and it takes a while to get.

The stainless and laminate are quite a bit more, though, and you can't order them through Wally World.
 
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T3 Lite blued, Leupold VXI 3-9x40, Black Hills Match 168gr BTHP, shot off a towel on a 2x4 on a bench at 100 yards
00349749.jpg
Federal Premium Nosler 150gr ballistic tip (I had only 2 rounds in my box at the range)
00310291.jpg

I wish I could have afforded a Varmint. I don't really regret not getting a varmint, the Lite is plenty accurate...and light too!
My rifle weighs in right at 7 lbs with scope. That's half a pound lighter than the Winchester M70 I had without scope.

For $650 here you can get a stainless Varmint. At the same gun shhop they charge about $625 for the stainless laminated.
I paid $427 in like new condition for my Lite.

TargetShooter2, you say the stock is modified, what did you do to it?

Lobotomy, last I heard it was a 6 month wait. I talked to a guy who has the exact same setup I do and he waited 4 months for his. He bought it through Walmart for $429. IIRC $408 was last year's price. They don't list the T3 anymore but you can still have them order it from SSI (I know because I was looking at ordering one from them).
 
>>>>I have a T3 Lite in .30-06. I think 650 might have been a bit much, i payed 500 for mine but maybe it was cheaper because its not stanless and has a synthetic stock?

You have the same one I have (mine's in .308). Yes, yours is cheaper. Stainless is more expensive as is the laminated stock.

patent
 
Lobotomy boy , Beretta /Sako /Tikka have been handling the BLOW UP problem very poorly and loosing customers because ot it !!. There have been 5 blow ups of stainless steel Sako and Tikka rifles that I know of and serious injuries. They do have a RECALL but aren't telling anyone !!! If you have purchased a stainless steel Sako or Tikka this year immediately call Beretta and ask if your rifle is on the recall list. It's very sad that a company that has gotten such a good reputation is destroying that reputation very quickly.!!
 
That's typical behavior for an Italian company. If anyone ever wants proof that socialism is a stupid idea, do business in Italy.
 
TargetShooter2, I finaly realized why your stock is "modified".
You have sling studs on the sides!
I was going to do the same with mine too!
How exactly did you put it in?
I was going to buy the ones with nuts and put some wide washers on the insides of the stocks.
 
Spalit! I also have a T-3 Lite stainless/syn, .308, which is great! The only problem I had was the scope mounts creaping from recoil, no matter how hard you tightened then. After about 4 calls to Beretta, they sent me new rings and that solved the problem. While I spoke to the supervisor about the mount problem, I asked the same question, and was told that the set trigger wasn't even an option in this country.
 
Tikka

Hello,

spalit hope you dont mind me replying to Fumbler about the mods on my T3 .

Fumbler on my rifle the butt has been filled with foam it doesnt have that hollow sound now the barrel channel has been opened up about 1/8 th on both side total clearance. the T3 stock is similar to a Savage 110 P stock as the fore end will flex , in the cross sections of the stock i bedded it with glass, on the forend where your swivel screws in i put a 9/16 wide 2 inch long
3/16 thick aluminum plate and reinstalled the swivel for the bipod , the forend doesnt flex at all very solid and stable. this is how i did my side swivels, i have been shooting archery for many years and have made alot of one off custom parts for bows . i used buttons that go on the bow limbs for my swivels mounts for the sid eof the stock , i used field tips i drilled them and cut the tip off flush and made swivels out of them. there is only two other things that i have to do to this rifle , i have a set of IOR tactial rings that i will be adding but Ken Farrell is going to make me a 1 pc rail with a 20 moa slant then i see the rifle as being complete . i just shot a 5 round group that went 0.284 thats a 1/4 inch group my 2 custom remmys will shoot that but i have a lot more money in them double in dollars . this is with shooting my handloads 175 SMK .
if you have any other questions on the mods send me a pm .

TS2

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