Tips for cleaning a .22LR?

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"More guns, cameras, coffepots and small boys have been ruined by excessive cleaning than any other single cause." --Terry, 230RN

I make sure the firing pin is free to move, and that there is no gunk under the extractor or blocking adequate seating of the cartridge. both of which can lead to misfires. And, in the case of one gun, slamfires (small .22 auto.)

Every once in a while I used to run a Hoppe's patch through my .22 rifles just to make sure there were no spidies or earwigs taking up residence in there, but now I use a boresnake. These rifles would stand out in the open in a corner for weeks or months.

I have no idea whether spidie guts or earwig guts are corrosive, but no sense taking a chance, so that's why the Hoppe's.
 
... spidies or earwigs taking up residence in there ... These rifles would stand out in the open in a corner for weeks or months.
I've had the same problem, but I solved it years ago by simply placing a golf tee in the muzzle, and keeping the action closed.
 
if you have a few spare bucks, pick up a bore snake. They make life sooo much easier!

+1 on the above

I've tried patches,sprays, weed wacker line,etc. the boresnake is fantastic in my humble opinion. You can wash and reuse too. Some will say you are pulling crud back down the barrel every time.....I say so what......are you telling me bullets fired down the barrel are NOT causing wear and tear (aka damage).

BORESNAKES are :cool::cool:
 
I have a Remington 597, I have only cleaned it once, after I shot 40,000 rounds through it....:eek:

I only cleaned it because I noticed that the accuracy was degrading.

I have shot over 10,000 rounds through it after the cleaning, no cleaning in the near future.:D
 
Hmm, you never need to clean the bore of a rimfire?

My father had a model 1890 Winchester 22wrf pump rifle which I got when he died. I think he picked it up at a garage sale and never used it.

I got it home and the barrel looked "gunked up". A bare cleaning rod wouldn't go much more than a few inches in...

After soaking for long periods with various solvents, I was finally able to make some progress. I got tons of lead out of that barrel, and it coming out for nearly 2 hours. I removed at least the equivalent of one .22 round of lead from the barrel.

Funny that manufacturers don't recommend not cleaning...
 
I dunno, I had a Firestar pistol that I fired some (maybe a hundred or two?) Thunderbolts out of and it became so leaded I couldn't see much of the rifling and couldn't get a bare cleaning rod through the bore.

I guess it all depends on the particular gun/ammo combination
 
I dunno, I had a Firestar pistol that I fired some (maybe a hundred or two?) Thunderbolts out of and it became so leaded I couldn't see much of the rifling and couldn't get a bare cleaning rod through the bore.

I guess it all depends on the particular gun/ammo combination
Nope, you just used thunderturds, err, thunderbolts.

Do pick up a boresnake, a bottle of cleaner, and a box of Qtips.
I use the boresnake but prefer the Otis rimfire kit for a deep clean, costs more, not alot more, but has all the parts you need, and comes in a handy carrying case.

I only clean the action, and rarely clean the bore.
 
Let's see... There isn't any difference between the 1890 Winchester and a modern .22 as far as ability to "lead up".

Regarding the ammo, while previous gunpowder might have been corrosive at times, the lead bullet wouldn't be much different. And they did have lubrication/wax back then.

Another post mentions Thunderbolts leading up barrels... Is that because they use a softer lead?
 
OcelotZ3 - nope, rounds for a .22 WRF are quite different from modern .22 LR rounds. The case is closer in size to a .22 Magnum than a .22 LR, and the bullet was a 45 grain hollow based bullet (not heeled) with inside lubrication as opposed to the outside lubrication of the .22 LR. Leading occurred faster and more often with the .22 WRF than it does with the .22 LR.
 
Let's see... There isn't any difference between the 1890 Winchester and a modern .22 as far as ability to "lead up".

Regarding the ammo, while previous gunpowder might have been corrosive at times, the lead bullet wouldn't be much different. And they did have lubrication/wax back then.
The powder was not corrosive, it was the primer, which contained potassium perchlorate and left salts in the bore which attracted moisture.
 
Use good ammo and clean the action every year or two whether it needs it or not. If you interchange shorts, longs, and long rifle ammo you may have to clean the chamber. If something gets in the barrel, clean it out. My most accurate 22's have never had anything down the bore but bullets. And I'm talking 40-50 year old guns.
 
I shoot a .22lr Beretta Neo at the range. I can put about 700 rounds through it (granted this is in each trip) before it starts to hang up on me. I tend to disassemble and clean the whole thing between visits, but did not have tine to last time. I am going to clean out the action and see how it does tomorrow (if I can get my sleepy butt out of bed and to the range:eek:). I guess I will see. Also, bought a bore snake but haven't tried it yet.
 
Unless I clean my Marlin 22 magnum, the accuracy drops off significantly. 22 mag use jacketed bullets, which foul the barrel, just like centerfire. From a clean bore, to a fouled bore after 100 rounds, my groups went from an inch at 100 yards, to about 4 inches.
 
I use a boresnake and a hoppe's cleaning kit for cleaning the barrel. Other prodcuts are availabe for cleaning the action, but I mostly use q-tips(those white sticks for cleaning your ears.) and paper towels.
 
Juna, what kind of tip are you using on your cleaning rod? I have trouble getting a brass jag through a .22 barrel, but using a plastic slotted one (where the patch slips through the slot) works fine. And with the slotted type, you can "scrub" the bore by sliding the patch back and forth.
 
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I use a length of old flyline with a brass snap swivel attached. A small piece of cleaning patch passed through the snap with some Hoppe's, then a patch with a light coat of oil, finally a dry patch. Doesn't seem to change the accuracy any and it makes me feel better to have a shiny bore.
 
I use a .22 cleaning kit, and with the proper size patches, I clean the barrel and action after each shooting. One extra thing to watch for: Since the barrel is so small, be very careful about the cleaning rod, especially right where it screws into the brush or patch tool, as it enters the barrel. You don't want to nick the end of the barrel, and foul up the rifling. This caution applies to all guns and barrels, but is especially prone to .22s.
 
this may not be the right place to ask (im new and cant figure out how to make my own post or thread) but about cleaning .22s i get that i dont have to clean the barrel thats good to know, but how can i clean the bolt its a savage mk2-f do i soke the bolt in something or can i take it apart or just scrub it down with a tooth brush and some cleaner. and is there any kind of protectent that i can putt on my gun because its blued but it seems to rust up the day after i touch the steel which requires me to oil it all after each use. i like to keep it clean and rust free but it is a major pain in the butt and it wastes alot of gun oil. is there anything i can put on it that will stay on longer and what is a better coating for guns stainless steel, or blue or is ss just as bad.


HELP please
 
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