To press the cap on the nipple or not to press. That's the question

[Tallbald]

First off let me assure folks I love my Old Armys and despite my misgivings about ignition I will continue to shoot them. But although I keep the nipples clean and scrubbed and use CCI #11 caps as advised, I often experience first try nothings when the hammer drops. I've read that I should use a wood dowel to gently press the cap down on the nipple and then began reading that I was asking for a lost finger in doing so. Now I cringe when I use my snail capper to press the cap on the nipples. Is there any consensus on the safest best practice? I always wear safety glasses. Maybe I should wear leather gloves if I choose to press with a dowel. I just don't know. No accidental firings yet, but I wonder if the law of averages is catching up to me. Don.

 

[Mizar]

I know that I'm not answering your question, but have you considered changing your nipples with aftermarket ones? Track of the Wolf nipples are very well made - part #PRA-S. Stainless steel, smaller flash hole and a slightly smaller diameter cone with less taper. And they fit the factory nipple wrench.

Ruger does not mention specifically CCI #11 - from the manual: "The suggested cap size for the Old Army revolver is No. 10 or No. 11 (U.S.) or equivalent."

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

If you carefully turn down your nipples you wont need to press down very hard at all.

 

[45 Dragoon]

I would switch to Remington caps (or any other)!! Your Ruger nipples should be fine, they're non interference so shouldn't be deformed from hammer strikes. I use CCIs in the shop for a reason . . . . .they are the worst for ignition and reliability (and I shove them on with an aluminum rod!) If I can get 100% ignition with them, I know the customer shouldn't have a problem!! That's my experience anyway.

Mike

 

[whughett]

I use Elmer Keiths method. Push cap on with thumb. Point pistol in a safe direction, down range for me, and use the hammer to firmly seat. No don't drop the hammer, lower onto the cap and give it a firm push. Haven' had one go off yet.

 

[Skirmisher 263]

You are in no danger using a wooden dowel to firmly seat the caps. In the 41 years I've been shooting percussion revolvers in competition which included 8-10 matches a year plus untold practice rounds and I have never seen or heard of a cap going off using such a practice from any of hundreds of competitors. If the practice was dangerous then why didn't the caps go off the first time. Your failure to set them off the first time is due to the hammer actually pushing the cap all the way to the seated position.

 

[DD4lifeusmc]

I've been using factory nipples in all my different BP revolvers and rifles since the 1970's never had a problem of not firing because a cap didn't appear to fit right
So first make sure with just normal finger pressure ( I use a inline capper) to place cap on nipple. shouldn't really need to use a dowel or pencil to really push it on.
Check your end play on the cylinder, the first strike may be moving the cylinder forward and the second is setting it off.
cut a temporary shim from typing paper( yes it will likely burn away after one or two shots), but it is quick and easy to use as a shim
may need 2 or 3 layers thick
If it now fires on the first drop, you know where the problem is, before you replace gun, cylinder, nipples or turn yours down.

 

[rodwha]

CCI #11 mags all too often needed a second strike so I bought ToTW nipples and had the same problem. I contacted Track and they said they were designed for standard (non magnum) caps, which I've never seen.

I tried Rem #10's and have never had an issue since. Try those.

And I seat caps by hand and have never needed to press them on any harder.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

If you have to force the cap on with a dowel or other tool then the caps do not fit your nipples. Find caps that fit or turn down the nipples until the caps fit. If the caps fit you wont have the problem you are describing.

 

[PainlessWolf]

Good morning,
I've read and follow Mike the Duelist Den fellows recommendations for gently pressing the cap down with a dowel after it's seated from the snail capper. ( I use a pencil with a rubber eraser ) I switched to Remington caps only and my remaining CCI caps are used for the shotgun nipple on my LeMat only. No misfires using the Remington caps yet. Don't be afraid of your revolver just respect it and follow common sense safety rules.
regards!

 

[Noz]

I use a piece of antler as a push stick. I cap with a snail capper and as far as I am concerned it puts the caps in the right place but does not seat them properly.
The practice of seating caps with the hammer works well but there is an always present chance of a slipped hammer and ignition. Illegal process in SASS.
In my opinion, there are no caps acceptable in revolver shooting that are not #10 Remingtons. I have made it a practice for severl years to remove the factory nipple from every new gun I buy and throw them away, I replace them with TRESOs or SLIX. Stops problem before they begin.

 

[rodwha]

My OEM Pietta nipples work just fine with Rem #10's. Hasn't been a reason to swap them.

 

[792mauser]

I've only recently have started using an inline capper. I've used a tin and my fingers for years and haven't set of one yet.

 

[Tallbald]

Thanks everyone for the comments. Several years ago when all caps were locally hard to find, I bought 2000 CCI Magnum #11 caps for $43 a thousand a couple counties over. Never had trouble with CCI rimfire ammo and thought the caps would be just as good. I wasn't able to get any #10 caps to seat completely on my stock Ruger Old Army nipples and went, as advised, up a size. I cannot afford right now to not use all these CCI's so I must adapt. And since I can't hunt any longer the possibility of a misfire is less critical than when in the field with buck in range. The occasional misfire though is a true annoyance.
I use a snail capper as I said but don't press really hard with it to seat the cap, thinking it could cause them to fire. I hadn't thought about using a pencil with an eraser but will add that to my wooden dowel. I'm a very safe loader and my guns are always pointed downrange when being capped. I've never touched off a chamber during capping but the thought of it is.....startling.
I really appreciate the input here and will take the advise and heed all precautions. Don.

 

[Patocazador]

I use Elmer Keiths method. Push cap on with thumb. Point pistol in a safe direction, down range for me, and use the hammer to firmly seat. No don't drop the hammer, lower onto the cap and give it a firm push. Haven' had one go off yet.

This is the method I use. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
However, using Remington #10 caps on your ROA will solve the problem.

 

[44 Dave]

I have some guns that will use CCIs but Remingtons will work on all of guns, they will "stretch" where the CCIs won't.

 

[Michael Tinker Pearce]

It's been years since I shot cap-and-ball revolvers, but I had my best luck with Remington #10s. I had an inline capper and would press them on quite firmly. CCI #11s had a tendency to fall off and occasionally didn't go off on the first strike.

Unrelated but for field use I would plug the nipple with a pin and pour a drop of candle-wax around the nipple. Once the pin was removed the edges of the cap would press into the wax and give a weather-tight seal. The candle wax had a high enough melting temp that the wax wouldn't run from heat from successive shots, and it gave excellent reliability in inclement weather. I actually tested this by immersing the loaded revolver in water and it still functioned.