To use or not to use: Magnum Primers...

Status
Not open for further replies.

Maverick223

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
11,282
Location
28078
I'd like to switch over to using only lg. rifle magnum primers. I know this has been covered in the past, but I just want a second opinion regarding all of the cartridges that I plan to use these for. I am currently (or planning to start) loading for:

.375H&H (which begs for magnums)
.300WM (which I only use match grade primers in so I could use either mag. or standard just as easily, using magnum now)
.45-70Govt. (currently using standard but would like to switch)
.45-120NE (in the near future; my own flavor of DG cartridge: a smokeless .45-120Sharps)
.30-06Springfield (using standard but want to switch)
.308Win. (in the near future)
and I might start loading 7.62x39mm (doubtful that I will load for but I'd like some input anyway).

I am also considering using magnums in sm. rifle primers, and this should be fine for the .223Rem. (using Varget), but I think the .30Carbine (standard H-110 load) may be a problem.

Note: I fully realize that I must lower the charge weight by a grain or so, and fully intend to work up loads again for the new primers.

What say ye sultans of the saltpeter?

:)
 
You can probably get by with standard primers in most loads, but some powders dictate it if you are having problems with hangfires. I use BL(c)-2 powder in 7.62x39 reduced loads and mag primers are a must, or you'll have issues with ignition. I can't say I haven't used them in place of regular standard primers, but I never max out my loads, or there would possibly be issues with pressure.
 
So I guess it is looking good for Mag. primers then. My biggest worry is using them for the 30Carbine as I fear the bullet may jump decreasing the accuracy by a good margin. That said, large rifle primers are my biggest concern as I need them for some cartridges, my small rifle cartridges could (and currently do) use standard primers for both.

Thanks for the info, oh great sage of the saltpeter.

:)
 
I have used H110 in 30 car. w/& w/out mag primers---I really did not notice any great difference.
Worried about it w/ mag primers---reduce your load !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What does bother me---reloading 30 car today--cases have been reloaded approx. 10 times---some will not go into the shell holder---
That bothers me more than mag. primers....................

I run steel wool around base---if it still will not go in---out it goes !!!!
 
Last edited:
I've tried large rifle magnum primers in various rifle cartridges and even in a 44 Magnum. I also use them in a 357 Herrett. In fact in an article on accurate loads in a 308 Winchester loaded with Varget in a Handloader magazine article a year or so ago, CCI 250 (large rifle magnum) primers gave the best accuracy.

That said, most of the time magnum primers don't improve accuracy and may even make it worse. What you're proposing to do is safe enough though.
 
You don't say WHY you wish to use only mag caps instead of the proper ones for each cartridge. ???

I know many think a "hot" primer MUST be the best choice for everything but that's not so. But mag caps will sure make everything go "bang."
 
Generally magnum primers are only needed in magnum cartridges and/or if using over 40 grains of ball powder or in freezing temperatures. If using magnum primers when not needed, accuracy may suffer slightly. I use standard primers for 17 Rem, 223, 308, 30-06, 338 RCM, 45-70 and magnum primers for 300 WM, 375 H&H, 416 Rigby and 458 WM, with extruded and ball powder and in all temperatures with excellent results. I've experimented with magnum primer quite a bit in the past, and have came to the conclusion that they really are not needed in non-magnums even with ball powder. There may be exceptions, but these are my findings with the cartridges I use, in my guns.
 
You don't say WHY you wish to use only mag caps instead of the proper ones for each cartridge.
Just want to reduce the types of primers that I stock. It is easy to accidentally swap the primers and use the wrong one. I have already done this with the .375H&H (using standard ones), didn't cause any problems, but the opposite could. Right now I stock Lg. Rifle magnum match, Lg. Rifle magnum, Lg. Rifle standard, Sm. Rifle match, and Sm. Rifle. I have no intentions to load everything with match grade stuff, but they are beneficial for certain rifles, going to magnum only (at least for Lg. Rifle) is the logical solution. Also a few charges are highly compressed (primarily the .223Rem.), using a magnum primer would reduce the charge by at least 0.5gr. making loading easier (and I could load a little hotter, still under max).

Thank you all, wise czars of the charcoal.

:)
 
I wouldn't use a Magnum primer where it's not needed but of course you should do as you wish. If your only reason for using only Magnum primers is not to make a mistake I would re-thing reloading because that should be one of the easy things to avoid. The 100 primer packages are clearly marked and if that's a problem .... well I thin you know where I'm going. (NO, I'm not bashing the OP, just worrying)
 
If your only reason for using only Magnum primers is not to make a mistake I would re-thing reloading because that should be one of the easy things to avoid.
Not the only reason, and it is unlikely to recur as I am pretty methodical (mistake was discovered prior to completion of the cartridges), but has happened before and I would rather minimize the chance of a repeat event. Additionally, I would just rather not have to stock the additional primer types, and reduce the necessary powder (making it great for compressed loads). I know what you are getting at...if I can switch primers, I can switch powders as well...not true as I keep only one powder type out at a time and quadruple check the canister. Either way, I think I will keep loading. :rolleyes:
 
I think that if you don't shoot BR matches you are not going to notice much of a difference in accuracy. I routinely use magnum primers when I don't have any choice. Just take that into consideration when you are figuring your powder charge. Also keep in mind that any difference in how hot the primers are compared to each other will be magnified in a small powder capacity load.

Maybe I'm part of a small majority....but I've not had any problems.
 
Looks like I am good to go, just need to do a bit more load development for the non-magnums to make sure that they retain an acceptable standard of accuracy and find the appropriate load for each. An advice on load equivalence would be great. ;)
 
I believe the "difference" is in the ignition flame not in the container.

There was a time when Winchester produced one type of large rifle primer. The packaging stated is was for both large rifle and magnum use. That changed sometime in the early 90's if I remember right. From then until now they have produced both types. The single primer they produced worked fine with their own ball powder. I had no problems with them when using WW-760 in .243, .270, etc. I used stick powder in everything larger and used both magnum and the older Winchester "both type" primers.

There is some information that a longer and/or hotter flame is best when igniting ball, and to some extent, flake powder. This is especially true in large quantities in large cases. I would assume that is where the "Magnum" nomenclature came from.

Depending on the load, caliber, and type of powder used sometimes magnum primers will give the best accuracy when least expected. An example I ran across recently was in a .22 Hornet. I was using H-110, 10.5 grains, which filled the case about 3/4 full. Out of Rem 7 1/2, WSR, Fed 205M,and CCI small rifle magnum primers, the CCI's were the most accurate loads as far as group size.

I'd say try them in the rifles you are loading for and if they work good use them.
 
Only when trying to ignite a big charge of ball powder, such as the 300 Win mag, 75 grains +. Extruded powder's wont need magnum primers, much easier to ignite.
 
My goodness.
I think you guys are blowing this out of proportion a bit. Happened once...was caught before I even completed loading...worked fine...I still have all my fingers. :rolleyes:

Looks like magnum might be great for small rifle since I am using ball powder in the .30Carbine and the .223Rem. already calls for it. Any advice as to how much I should drop the charge to reach standard military spec. for the carbine (15.5gr. of H110 IIRC). I was thinking 0.5-1.0gr. should put me about right. I don't imagine that I will run into issues even if I should use the same charge, however I want to keep the charge somewhat mild because it is a 65+yr. old semi. (never heard of a cracked heel in a carbine, but I don't doubt that it has happened).

Thanks guys.

:)
 
Last edited:
This has been my routine for working up loads for the past few years. If it uses ball powder it gets a magnum primer, regardless of case size.
If it's a belted magnum and/or a case pushing 70+gr of any powder, it's going to get a magnum primer.
It keeps it simple and it works for me.



NCsmitty
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top