Tradition's Trapper Pistol

Status
Not open for further replies.
If a cap fits too loosely simply pinch it slightly between the thumb and index finger to give it a slight oval shape. Done correctly that will help it to stay on the nipple.
The old discontinued Remington #11 Golden Caps were over sized and fit as if they were a size #11.5 or #12.
The cap ignition doesn't seem like it's causing the problem.
But the powder does need to enter into the drum.
It's more difficult for the large granules of 2F powder to enter the drum compared to small granules of 3F powder.
Guns with a drum often need to be slapped after being loaded with powder holding the drum side of the gun facing downward toward the ground so that the powder can be coaxed into the drum with an assist by gravity.
Also, leaving the hammer on 1/2 cock during ramming helps the powder to flow into the drum better due to the air pressure that escapes through the nipple hole.
As long as good powder is entering the drum, there's only very few reasons why it shouldn't ignite. But substitute powder can sometimes go bad simply by absorbing moisture.
If a powder charge doesn't ignite, by removing the clean out screw or nipple and adding some powder under the nipple should increase the flame enough to ignite the main charge with the next cap ignition.
If that doesn't work after a couple of times then either the powder is bad, or the powder is being blocked from the ignition flame by either the stem of the drum or by the large granules of powder, or from contamination with oil.
One sure way to test the ability of the powder to ignite with a cap is by loading a charge into the gun, then ramming a wad over it to create enough of a seal to create a blank load that will ignite with a boom. A bore size ball of newspaper can be rammed with enough compression to form a tight seal over the powder. Simply compress the newspaper wad firmly and as much as possible over the powder.
You're only testing the flash channel to see if the powder can be ignited by the percussion cap.
After using the proper loading procedure described above, then measure the location of the wad inside the barrel using the ramrod so that you can
re-measure afterward to check if it ignited without hearing a boom (or a silent discharge).
If it fails to ignite then add some more powder under the nipple and repeat.
If that doesn't work then I wouldn't know if the problem is bad powder, or the stem of the drum causing a blockage. Since this is suppose to be the powder test, I would tend to assume that your drum isn't defective and causing the failure to ignite the Pyrodex. However, anything is possible.
 
Last edited:
Ok, I took it out again today and it worked, it must have been the extra patch theory. It was so much fun, I had never shot a muzzle loader before, now I'm hooked. I'm looking a
Walker now.
 
Try making a paste of black powder and solvent; mask off the wood and daub the paste on the brass. Let it dry, wipe off, repeat as necessary. I loved the 1000 grit polish job I put on the brass of my TC Hawken until I wanted to actually hunt with it; it was then I realized that my pretty brass patchbox would be ratting me out to every elk in Arizona unless I toned it down some.
 
Back from the dead

I just wanted to update my old thread here, I finally cut the rear sight groove and went out to shoot a group. This group was shot at 25yds, off hand without the aid of the set trigger (ahem... I've been meaning to fix that). I put my granddad's old timer in there for size reference, everybody knows how big that is, right? Hand cast lead ball, TC prelubed patch, CCI cap, and a 44spl case of Pyrodex P.
100_3910_zpse421a929.jpg
 
Nicely done!!!!!
(I want to ask you about the Dan Wesson in the pics you have posted though!)
 
I would say you got robbed on your score.

I bought the Trapper and yours looks better!

Great job on that!
 
If you fill the wood with that creamy wood filler that comes in a pint can from Sherwin Williams or another paint store you will fill up the pores. Just wipe it on and let dry. Then you polish it off and put the finish on. It should block the pores from sucking up so much finish in the end grain.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top