Trim 2 Lenght for .223 REM confirmation

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

jediagh

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
79
BACKGROUND:
This is my first time reloading for .223 REM and want to make sure I am got this part correct. I plan on just plinking with this ammo on the 25 yard and 100 yard.
---

My Lyman reloading manual says:
Trim 2 Length (T2L) = 1.750
MAX T2L = 1.760

The ANSI (pdf file) gives the MIN T2L = 1.740

So took a few of the range pickup .223 REM cases that I have already cleaned and de-primed and the come out as follows for the T2L
C1 = 1.750
C2 = 1.751
C3 = 1.756
C4 = 1.745
C5 = 1.780 --> became 1.751
C6 = 1.778 --> became 1.749

Took my LEE Precision 223 REM Gauge/Holder and my power drill and trimmed C5 and C6. They are now as follows:

C5 = 1.751
C6 = 1.749

So I take it C1 thru C6 are now safe in terms of T2L correct?
Not too long nor too short. Right? I can move on to the next step of priming.

I understand that for real precision I should get all the brass to the same T2L or as close as possible but for just plinking those numbers will work correct and it's within the safe zone of this caliber.
 
I would keep everything between 1.750 to 1.760
Anything under 1.750 would be questionable as for keep proper neck tension.
 
range pickup .223 REM cases that I have already cleaned and de-primed
Click to expand...
Just to clarify.

You cannot measure, or trim, until after Full-Length sizing.

Do Not deprime and trim without sizing, as they will change length after sizing.

rc
 
If you are loading range pickup brass, I would trim all of them. It just makes them more consistent, especially if you are crimping in a cannelure. If you try to keep all of your brass prepped the same, it will make working up loads easier, keeping as much the same as possible. Good luck.
 
@rcmodel
I used the Lee Precision 223 3-Die Deluxe Set and used the Full Length Sizing Die to de-prime and re-size the cases so that is both steps you talk about right?

Not aware that one can de-prime without doing a full resize with a die?

@witchhunter
oh you do bring up a good point for working up a load.
Guess I'll try to do 100 rounds all at the same T2L to figure out what load the rifle likes best (10 shots at xxxx grains).
 
oh did not know that but why would you want to de-prime and not resize at the same time before cleaning??? Seems like adding an extra step for no reason.
 
As I said, to clean the dirty cases & primer pockets in a tumbler before running dirty brass through a sizing die.

And possibly to swage or ream GI crimped primer pockets, then tumble & polish them to smooth up the rough edges??

Some of us reloaders are more OCD then others!

rc
 
witchhunter has a point about crimping and case length, if you are going to roll crimp into a cannelure. Plus or minus .005 is good enough if the crimp is set just right, but closer is better. You also have to have consistent cannelure placement on the bullets, unlike the Winchesters below.

Inconsistent cannelure placement.
attachment.php


If you don't crimp, you could load cases from 1.655 to 1.755 and shoot them against cases that are all 1.750 exactly, and you would be hard pressed to shoot the difference. It would take great bullets, a great barrel, and great shooting. And if you are shooting FMJ bullets, forget about it.

Cases as short as 1.740 can be used, just make sure your sizer/expander leaves you with good neck tension. Some folks will load them shorter than that, but you won't find many that short.

1.760 is the max length to be used, and will be safe in any properly machined chamber. Some chambers can accept longer brass, but 1.760 or shorter will keep you safe.

I trim every time, because it is fast and easy with the Possum Hollow trimmer I have for .223, but many people measure and never trim anything unless it gets over 1.760. Nothing wrong with that.
 
Wouldn't be a bad idea to grab a headspacing gage either. Tells you for sure if your cases are too long and needing a trim or too short (as well as if you have proper headspacing which is rather crucial if you are making rounds for an autoloader or if your cases aren't fire formed to your specific bolt action chamber). They can be had for 30 bucks or less, or of you want to be extra OCD you can grab a micrometer headspacing gage for about twice that much. Keep in mind headspacing is the single most crucial aspect to making safe rifle rounds.
 
There's no inherit danger in shooting cases that are slightly under length.

With my drill I can keep it to around +/- .002 doing it quickly.

I keep my .223 to .750
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
Trimming .223 brass
Replies
6
Views
1K
RM
R
Back
Top