Trouble putting primers in once-fired LC military .30 cases.

[Jim K III]

I shot up a can of LC-66 M2 .30 Cal ball ammo a long time ago. Way back then I reloaded a couple dozen rounds just fine. Being that military primers are crimped, I used a primer pocket swager before inserting new primers.

Now, years later, I want to reload up the rest of the 30-06 cases. All the cases have been cleaned, de-primed, sized, and trimmed if needed. However, now I can't seem to insert primers into the cases even though I've cleaned the pockets with a primer pocket tool and swaged them to remove the crimp. Both CCI 200 and WIN WLR primers get stuck trying to insert them, using either a separate RCBS hand priming tool or the primer arm on a Rockchucker press. About 1 in 10 will actually seat. All the rest get stuck at an angle when using the hand priming tool, or just don't insert at all when using the primer arm on the press. If I really reef on the hand priming tool the primers get distorted and only insert about 1/4 way.

Am I missing a step here?

See the photos for the tools used to swage and clean the primer pockets and an example of a finished primer pocket.

 

[GooseGestapo]

You didn’t remove enough crimp!
Your tool bottomed out on the primer pocket, but didn’t remove the thin wire-edge of crimp.
I use either a RCBS primer pocket swage tool, or a Forster deburring tool.
I’ve also in my early days (mid 1970’s) just used a pocket knife to ream them out…

The button on the end of the punch takes considerable pressure to “round out” the edge of the primer pocket…
I prefer to cut out the crimp rather than press it out….
Tennis elbow!!!

 

[Jim K III]

You didn’t remove enough crimp!
Your tool bottomed out on the primer pocket, but didn’t remove the thin wire-edge of crimp.
I use either a RCBS primer pocket swage tool, or a Forster deburring tool.
I’ve also in my early days (mid 1970’s) just used a pocket knife to ream them out…

The button on the end of the punch takes considerable pressure to “round out” the edge of the primer pocket…
I prefer to cut out the crimp rather than press it out….
Tennis elbow!!!

Now I see what you mean by the thin wire-edge. I thought using the RCBS primer pocket swager would have been good enough. And yes, it does take a lot of pressure, but I shoved that punch all the way up into the pocket. I'll try a deburring tool. Thanks!

 

[Kaldor]

Now I see what you mean by the thin wire-edge. I thought using the RCBS primer pocket swager would have been good enough. And yes, it does take a lot of pressure, but I shoved that punch all the way up into the pocket. I'll try a deburring tool. Thanks!

Yup, you need to run a deburring/cutter tool. The issue you are seeing is exactly why I prefer to cut the crimps, instead of swage them out. More work, and probably slower, but the RCBS crimp cutter is fantastically consistent.

 

[Bronco72]

I used to have access to a boat load of LC 308 cases and mixed military 06 also!
I chuck that pocket trimmer into a variable speed drill and go to town. Be surprised how fast it is done !

 

[jag22]

I bought the Lyman case prep center years ago. Do you need one, not really but I enjoy occasionally cleaning out primer pockets, particularly 45 ACP and reaming out crimp. It's all set up so you just turn it on and all the bits are there and turning.

 

[Atavar]

I bought the Lyman case prep center years ago. Do you need one, not really but I enjoy occasionally cleaning out primer pockets, particularly 45 ACP and reaming out crimp. It's all set up so you just turn it on and all the bits are there and turning.

I do the same thing, though I try not to use the uniformer bit unless it is needed.

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

I use RCBS swagger. On my rock chucker. I cam over when swagging pockets. It works good that way.

 

[illinoisburt]

Now I see what you mean by the thin wire-edge. I thought using the RCBS primer pocket swager would have been good enough. And yes, it does take a lot of pressure, but I shoved that punch all the way up into the pocket. I'll try a deburring tool. Thanks!

It shouldn't take that much work on the press. I usually put little case lube on the button.

Countersink bit does a quick and easy job on those ring crimps.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-six-flute-countersink-61552.html

 

[Walkalong]

RCBS makes a tool specifically for that, works great.

 

[EricBu]

I shot up a can of LC-66 M2 .30 Cal ball ammo a long time ago. Way back then I reloaded a couple dozen rounds just fine. Being that military primers are crimped, I used a primer pocket swager before inserting new primers.

Now, years later, I want to reload up the rest of the 30-06 cases. All the cases have been cleaned, de-primed, sized, and trimmed if needed. However, now I can't seem to insert primers into the cases even though I've cleaned the pockets with a primer pocket tool and swaged them to remove the crimp. Both CCI 200 and WIN WLR primers get stuck trying to insert them, using either a separate RCBS hand priming tool or the primer arm on a Rockchucker press. About 1 in 10 will actually seat. All the rest get stuck at an angle when using the hand priming tool, or just don't insert at all when using the primer arm on the press. If I really reef on the hand priming tool the primers get distorted and only insert about 1/4 way.

Am I missing a step here?

See the photos for the tools used to swage and clean the primer pockets and an example of a finished primer pocket.

Didn't swage it quite enough. You can put a phillips (one you don't need) in a power driver and use it to put a slight bevel on primer pocket to facilitate seating.

 

[gwpercle]

Because of the good brass used in LC-66 cases you get brass spring back when you swag the primer pockets . I had the same problem and found the only way to get that brass from not springing back was to ream it out ... I got a CH4D reamer and cut /reamed away all the brass crimp then for "good measure" ran them through the swag die again ... the brass in those cases was plenty tough ... the 30 Carbine is a rather high pressure cartridge ... but doing a Double Whammy - ream and swage was the only way I could get the primers in easily .

A proper pocket reaming bit works much better than a phillips head screwdriver bit .
CH4D sell a little hand reaming tool set with proper interchangable reaming bits and a handle !
Lyman may also sell the reaming bits also .
Gary

 

[Mk-211]

I use one of the RCBS/Wilson .17-.45 deburring tools to ream primer pockets. Chucked up in a drill only takes about 1-2 seconds per case.

I will say that you need a light touch, that area with the ring, with the primer sealant needs to go. That's all, nothing more, practice on some junk brass first.

 

[AJC1]

RCBS makes a tool specifically for that, works great.

I use my small and large rcbs military crimp remover a lot.... best 20 bucks one can spend in reloading.....

 

[Skeptic13]

I use my small and large rcbs military crimp remover a lot.... best 20 bucks one can spend in reloading.....

Same here. I put them into a power drill and it make quick work of any crimped military case.

 

[Bronco72]

I went a dug up my pocket tools! I use the Hornady primer pocket reamer head in my drill ! I like the fact that it will only cut so deep and make the pockets uniform!
To each his or her own, just my method !

 

[mdi]

I never cared for "swage type" primer pocket tools (lifelong machinist/mechanic). I have "decrimped " probably a few thousand military brass with a plain old countersink. No need to enlarge/reform the pocket, just remove a few thousandths from the pocket mouth. My first experience with military brass was in the early '90s and having a few countersinks in my tool box I grabbed one and cut the crimps out about 75, 5.56 cases. As easy as any method and one would have to try hard to cut out to much. I have used a countersink for 5.56, 45 ACP, 9mm, (IIRC some 38 Specials), 303 British 7.62x54, 30-06 and 7.62x51. I also used a countersink to chamfer the primer pocket of my 44 Magnum brass when using a Lee Loader to prime. No more unexpected loud noises or a need to change skivvies...

 

[Walkalong]

. I have "decrimped " probably a few thousand military brass with a plain old countersink. No need to enlarge/reform the pocket, just remove a few thousandths from the pocket mouth

That's the key, don't over do it, which is easy with a countersink or de-burring tool.

 

[mdi]

I wanted to see how much I could metal I could remove from the pocket mouth so I experimented with some 9mm brass, I "leaned" on the countersink and cut about a 1/8th inch off case mouth (which is a lot). No blow outs, no leaks with the few I tried. I normally just remove a few thousandths, just enough to remove crimped metal from the mouth

 

[Blue68f100]

I wanted to see how much I could metal I could remove from the pocket mouth so I experimented with some 9mm brass, I "leaned" on the countersink and cut about a 1/8th inch off case mouth (which is a lot). No blow outs, no leaks with the few I tried. I normally just remove a few thousandths, just enough to remove crimped metal from the mouth

I've thrown 100's in to recycle bin from someone over cutting the primer pockets with a counter sink. These were some a friend gave me that he had picked up. The primers looked like top hats and 1/2 had leaked. You may get away with it if you using a good heavy primer, but not Fed, Win or S&B they will blow out. Not recommended. Use the proper tool and your less likely to take too much.

 

[FLIGHT762]

I've been reloading Military crimped brass in 30/06, 7.62 Nato, 5.56 NATO and others since the early 1970's. I've used all of the crimp removal methods to find the easiest way to remove the crimp. Many of the reloading die manufacturers have their own primer crimp removal tools. I have purchased a number of them over the past 50 years. All methods work to a degree, some better than others. I still have some that I don't use anymore since they didn't work that well.

I will just add to others that have posted in this thread that the best, currently produced primer crimp removal tool by the cutting method is the RCBS Trim Mate tool. https://www.rcbs.com/made-in-america/trim-mate-military-crimp-remover-2/855.html

This tool was updated a few years ago and is by far, the best cutter tool. I can be used in the Trim Mate tool or chucked into a 8/32 tool holder into a variable speed drill.

AS a side note, Dillon, RCBS and Frankford Arsenal make swaging tools to remove crimps. These tools work well with the caveat that they need to be adjust to a specific brass head stamp cases and and can remove too little or too much other brands of cases without being properly adjusted.

Since I use a large number of different Mfg's in all of the Military calibers, I chose to use the cutting methods of removal.

So, for the O/P and anyone coming to this thread looking for a good crimp cutter tool, I hope this helps their search.

 

[Blue68f100]

I wanted to see how much I could metal I could remove from the pocket mouth so I experimented with some 9mm brass, I "leaned" on the countersink and cut about a 1/8th inch off case mouth (which is a lot). No blow outs, no leaks with the few I tried. I normally just remove a few thousandths, just enough to remove crimped metal from the mouth

I've thrown 100's in to recycle bin from someone over cutting the primer pockets with a counter sink. These were some a friend gave me that he had picked up. The primers looked like top hats and 1/2 had leaked. You may get away with it if you using a good heavy primer, but not Fed, Win or S&B they will blow out. Not recommended. Use the proper tool and your less likely to take too much.

 

[SingleActionAndrew]

I like the Hornady hand tools. I deprime with Harvey hand deprimer and if the brass doesn't have my marking, I use the hand tool. All brass in my workshop has been touched by one, unless still NIB

 

[BushMaster-15]

I use one of the RCBS/Wilson .17-.45 deburring tools to ream primer pockets. Chucked up in a drill only takes about 1-2 seconds per case.

I will say that you need a light touch, that area with the ring, with the primer sealant needs to go. That's all, nothing more, practice on some junk brass first.

View attachment 1162368

That's MY tool of choice a light bevel or chamfer ,as I feel using a Swage loosens the pockets . I have a Dillon Swage Big Blue and turned the pocket pins down 0.0001" and it really helped stop lose primer pockets . Still prefer the deburring tool myself .

 

[GRIZ22]

I use one of the RCBS/Wilson .17-.45 deburring tools to ream primer pockets. Chucked up in a drill only takes about 1-2 seconds per case.

I will say that you need a light touch, that area with the ring, with the primer sealant needs to go. That's all, nothing more, practice on some junk brass first.

View attachment 1162368

This what I've used for over 50 years. Never had an issue