Ultrasonic Cleaner for pistol

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Polekat

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I've been looking for a beter way to clean my pistols and have readiong about ultrasonic cleaners like the HCS-200 ULTRASONIC HANDGUN CLEANING SYSTEM.

Does any one have any experience with this type of equipment? If it cleans gonk off, does it take blueing or other pistol finishes off too?
 
It doesn't harm bluing in itself. Some chemicals can.

Here's some info on ultrasonic cleaning form an old post:

The good points:

They really clean.

They usually clean FAST. Drop a dirty part in, and the dirt actually BOILS off in a cloud.

They DEEP clean, getting crud you normally don't even see. Ultrasonics get into cracks and holes that normally you can't get to with other methods.

They're especially good on harder fouling. (Ultrasonics work better on hard dirt).

You don't have to disassembly things. Ultrasonics are used by watchmakers to avoid having to disassembly some small components.

They work with a variety of solutions. Water with detergent works on many types of dirt, so you don't HAVE to use a volatile solvent.

The solution is heated up by the ultrasonic action. Warm solution cleans even better. Many tanks have a built-in heater also.

You can put an inch of water in the bottom and use small glass or plastic cups to hold solvent and small parts.
The ultrasonic waves are transmitted by the water in the bottom through the beakers or jars.

You can use the tank for MANY cleaning jobs, Paint brushes, dirty watch bands, electric razor heads, you're wife's jewelery, car parts, ANYTHING that you can fit into the tanks will clean up surgically clean.

The bad:
KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT OF THE TANK. Ultrasonics and bones don't mix.
This isn't something that happens instantly, it's over time.

Expense. The larger tanks are COSTLY. However, if you want to clean a stripped pistol or small parts, one of the smaller $150.00 range tanks will work fine.
You CAN put a portion of a frame or slide in the tank at a time.
After cleaning it, turn it over and clean the other half.

Any solvent that will attack plastic or gun finishes, will attack it FASTER in ultrasonics.

You've got to be careful to apply a THOROUGH coat of anti-rust lube after cleaning. Ultrasonics remove ALL grease and lube, leaving the part absolutely bare, including in tiny holes and crevices that ordinarily cleaning never touches.

They don't work as well on soft gummy grease as harder dirt. You can speed things up by pulling parts out and scrubbing with a brush.

They're electronic and heat the solvent. You have to be careful with flammables.

Advice:
If possible buy a basket that holds parts off the bottom or make up wire hangers. Ultrasonics work better when the parts are suspended in the solution instead of laying on the bottom of the tank.

A tank cover is nice to hold down fumes.

NEVER run the unit when the tank is dry even for a few seconds, it'll burn out.

Be careful what cleaning solution you use. You can pull the item out and find finish or plastic parts GONE.

Be careful with Tritium sights, and sights with any kind of inserts or dots. Many can be damaged or removed in the tank.

The small tanks sold in discount stores for cleaning false teeth and jewelery really don't work too well, and most of them aren't even real ultrasonic units.
 
Totally agree with Dfariswheel. I've cleaned about 300 handguns and rifle/shotgun parts with one over the last year. Best to take the side plate off revolvers and strip down the semi's. The UC tends to move the dirt around if it does not have space to remove the dirt. I've seen several wheelguns gunked up due to not removing the sideplate.
 
I'll chime in supporting ultrasonic cleaners. I spent 3 Knob Creeks with a Crest dealer cleaning guns that would make you blanch. Things that would take 2 days and 5 gallons of kerosene would clean up in 20 minutes and a little picking and grinning. M60's so fouled with cooked on carbon that it looked like black corn flakes pouring out when we opened them up. All of them came out "minty fresh".

DFW and Al are spot on with advice.

I will add that power matters.
 
I use a small ultra sonic cleaner that is long enough to hold the barrell of a 5" hand gun. It cleans really good. I load it with water & Simple Green & let it do the cleaning for me!
 
Be careful with Simply Green, it damages aluminum.

With ALL cleaners, if it can damage something it will damage it FASTER in an ultrasonic unit.

READ THE LABEL, or test run an old gun part with the same finish your gun has.
 
To add to the advice here.A suspended parts basket is not only a good idea,it is an essential piece.As laying anything including the basket directly on the bottom of the tank will destroy the transducers.I destroyed my first ultrasonic with laying a parts basket on the bottom.Most baskets come with a lip to hang off the sides,so it stays suspended.

It is also wise not to utilize flammable solvents as the ultrasonic action can cause the solvent to combust.
 
Can anybody recommend a good ultrasonic cleaner?

I am wanting to clean Glock pistols, and MP5 / M16 parts (bolt carrier, etc).

How are these ultrasonics from Harbor Freight (I get like 40% discount from HF through my work):

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do

ITEM 93035

or

ITEM 91957

Can you put a glock lower and a glock upper in these without damage to the "plastic" ?

Thanks!
 
http://www.searssupply.com/browse.htm?step=2&catid=4107&src=overture

I have a Crest 3/4 gallon heater,basket,timer.I bought it from the above linked company.It has been very reliable,I use it plenty for various cleaning jobs.Crest brand is used by alot of health care professionals and Jewelers.


I just checked out this one you asked about at brownells -HCS-200 ULTRASONIC HANDGUN CLEANING SYSTEM.
I like the tank dimensions ,it doesn't say if it is heated,but this one may be a good choice.
 
Well, I also like the tank dimensions on this unit from the link you posted

Crest Ultrasonic Cleaner Tru-sweep 575HT Heated with Timer - 1.75 Gallon

It's a little more money,but I bet you'll be pleased with the performance and long life.
 
I have been involved in the jewelry, watch and clock industry for 45 years and have been using ultrasonic cleaning that entire time. The machines from L&R are extremely durable and effective. They ain't cheap, but you get what you pay for. I have this unit:

http://www.merritts.com/store3/main/product.asp?ProductID=82675&search=l&r

Here are their weapons cleaning systems.

http://www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/weapons/systems.html

While I have never used the Crest units, I understand that they are fine equipment, but marketed primarily to the Dental industry. My unit gets used primarily for clocks and jewelry, but the occasional gun finds its way in there. I shoot a lot. I don't clean ultrasonically unless I am cleaning a piece that is really greasy, such as one that has been stored for a long time. I will have to disagree with the statement that watchmakers use ultrasonics to aviod disassembly. If you have a watchmaker that is doing this you need to find a new watchmaker. An ultrasonic cleaner will get things really really clean, and will do it quickly. It has nothing to do with the need to diasassemble. When I ultrasonically clean a clock it is totally dismantled first. Same with guns. An ultrasonic cleaner can't magically remove dirt trapped between a shaft and its pivot hole, for example.

In my opinion, few guns require this level of cleaning. It would only make good economical sense if you were doing production work such as a very busy gun shop. Of course, on the other hand most of us ( me included ) have gun collections that make no economic sense either.
 
"I will have to disagree with the statement that watchmakers use ultrasonics to aviod disassembly. If you have a watchmaker that is doing this you need to find a new watchmaker"

I'm a certified Master watchmaker with over 30 years in the business. Do I count?

We use ultrasonics to prevent having to disassemble assemblies that really don't need to be disassembled, and are better off left as is.
This is how it's taught in watchmaking schools from where I went to school to schools in Switzerland.
 
Sounds like fun, but...

Would you use a system like this every time back from the range? It seems like unscrewing grips and taking off side plates is going to loosen things up or create problems over time, eh? I guess it would be nice to use to get everything squeaky clean once a year or so, but are these practical for routine post-range use? I assume you don't have to worry about any patches or rods, and just toss the thing into the tank, and chambers, forcing cones, all those unpleasant areas of a revolver to get clean would be sparkling? It would be nice to have the big one and dunk the whole 10/22 in it, minus the removing the scope part...

It just seems that MPro 7 does a pretty good job of dissolving crud and lead and stuff, and I just spray lube all over the place afterward to make sure nothing gets stripped without reapplying some corrosion protection. I dunno. I guess as the years go by I will discover what I'm doing correctly and what I'm screwing up.

All I do know is that a dirty, fouled up .22lr revolver hosed down with Mpro 7 and left to stew in its juices for a couple hours seems awfully easier to clean then when I was going at it with Hoppe's or Butch's.
 
dfariswheel said:
We use ultrasonics to prevent having to disassemble assemblies that really don't need to be disassembled, and are better off left as is.
This is how it's taught in watchmaking schools from where I went to school to schools in Switzerland.

I agree. But I am also betting that you don't pull the dial and hands, run it through a cycle with plactic lube, spray off the hairspring and return it to the customer. You and I both know that there many guys that do this(and worse) , and those are the folks that I am refering to.

The point I was trying to make is that you can't simply toss the assembled gun in the ultrasonic juice, and expect it to come out perfectly clean. For example, not removing the side plate on a revolver before ultrasonic cleaning is something I would never even consider, but that's just me.
 
New to Ultrasonic Cleaning

I recently purchased the Sharpertek 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner based on information on this board. I am looking forward to using it this weekend. I would have started sooner but I didn't really have a full idea of all of the steps involved in ultrasonic cleaning. I found out that I need to rinse the cleaned gun in water after cleaning, which of course requires a dip in lube to displace the water and lube/protect the pistol. I had to purchase some special lubricant for this purpose from Brownell's to get started.

My question is as follows - how do you make sure that all of the interior spaces are free of water? For example, on a 1911 I expect the mainspring housing and firing pin/extracter shafts to accumulate water. How can I be sure it is all removed by the final lube bath? If I need to strip the gun to free up these spaces, ultrasonic cleaning will be too much of a hassle. Some of the ultrasonic manufacturers recommend blowing them out with compressed air. I'd rather not have to spend the cash on a compressor, plus they take up even more room in a crowded basement! Will the cans of compressed air used for computers and electronic be of much help with the removal of water. Any comments from someone experienced with ultrasonic cleaning will be appreciated.
 
One good technique to dry it is warm air.

A hair dryer will work quite well, or you can make a drying "oven" by putting a light bulb in a box.
One I used to use for drying clock movements was built by another man years before I showed up, and it was still in use when I left.

It was a wooden frame with a light bulb inserted in one side and covered with some screen wire.
You just plugged the bulb in, put the parts on the screen, and put a cardboard box over it.
You do have to watch that it doesn't get parts too hot.

Personally, for my personal guns I use an old hair dryer set on hot.
This not only blows the water or solvent out, it also heats the parts up.

Often, I'll use cheap Wal-Mart paint thinner as a cleaning solvent.
While you do have to watch it because paint thinner IS flammable, it isn't explosively so.
Thinner will evaporate on it's own, but again, I use a hair dryer to speed it up.

The simplest and safest method is to clean with a water-based cleaner like Greased Lightening or another that's safe to use on guns (NOTE: Simply Green and some others will damage aluminum quickly).
After cleaning, rinse and flush WELL under HOT water out of the faucet.
This will heat up the parts and make air drying that much faster.

Then apply a lube, being SURE to get it into every hidden area to prevent rust.

Remember, if a cleaning solvent will damage something, it'll damage it FASTER in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Also remember that most sight markings are nothing but ordinary paint, and can be removed in the cleaner.
 
If you have to blow water out after cleaning, why not get a 5 gallon air tank and fill it up at the gas station when it runs low? Then there would be no need to buy a compressor to keep at home. Some gas stations still offer free air, I think. I already own an air compressor I keep outside in the garage. I'm sure the wife would not appreciate it running in the house. Air tanks are quiet and do not take up much space. I would think an air tank over the long run that be cheaper than canned air sold for computers. Canned air for computers can't last long. I also thought that ultrasonic cleaners come with a lube that you use after the cleaning and it displaces the water. Am I missing something? Also, would I really need to take the side covers off a revolver each time I used the ultrasonice cleaner or would it be fine to do it every third or fourth time? I still have not made up my mind about getting one of these units. Any information is helpful.

I too have looked at the SHARPERTEK® Digital Pro 6 liter. It has a very good price for the size. Does anyone know how well this unit works? Is it durable? What are the pluses and minuses compared to Crest or L&R?
 
Ultrasonic gun cleaning system

8-Gallon-Gun.jpg I bought the sharpertek gun cleaning system and was happy with it. They have the polycarb tub to keep gun from being scratched.
 
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