Ultrasonic Cleaning Solutions

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AFDoc

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I've done the search. I've looked on the web, and there seems to be little concensus as to what sort of an ultrasonic cleaning solution works the best.

I have a background in chemistry, and it seems to me that if you want the carbonaceous gunk to be removed than you should choose a solvent designed for dissolving carbon residue. Something less aqueous and more prone to dissolve oils might work better.

Wouldn't it make more sense to try something like a 50/50 solution of acetone and water? Or perhaps isopropyl alcohol? A straight acetone, ether or alcohol solution should work best, but I hesitate to suggest a solution like that owing to its flammability.

Has anybody tried this?
 
Acetone? The low vapor pressure of acetone would mean it would be long gone before the first 8 minute cycle is finished.

Quit trying to re-invent the wheel, get some Hornady One Shot Sonic Clean Ultrasonic Case Cleaning Solution.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/711474/hornady-one-shot-sonic-clean-ultrasonic-case-cleaning-solution-32-oz-liquid

The stuff just plain works!:what::eek::D Cleans the carbon from inside the cases, and the primer pocket,(if decapped first). Also, tarnish and stains comes off the outside surface of the brass.
 
Snuffy,

Sure acetone has a low vapor pressure, but in quantity and in an aqueous base, you should have plenty left at the end of an 8 min cycle.

Like I wrote previously, I am not sure anyone has described this online. I appreciate your endorsement of the Hornady product, but I am looking at trying something new. No offense here (and it looks like you are not trying to be rude) but to insinuate that I am trying to reinvent the wheel is potentially turning a blind eye to innovation and progress. I am trying to foster discussion and thought, and your reply kind of stifles both.
 
I have a background in chemistry, and it seems to me that if you want the carbonaceous gunk to be removed than you should choose a solvent designed for dissolving carbon residue. Something less aqueous and more prone to dissolve oils might work better.

I'd start by looking more generally into how surfaces get cleaned. You assume that "carbonaceous gunk" has to be actually solubilized (and why assume that would require a less polar solvent than water?), but it really just needs to be lifted off the surface, and kept from settling back on. This is what surfactants do, so I'd recommend reading up on surfactant chemistry if you want to whip up something new.

FWIW, many recommend citric acid and a dab of Dawn. Citrate's a decent chelator. So is the oxalate found in Bar Keeper's Friend.
 
Mr Borland,

Waaaaay back in my laboratory days (chromatography and separations), we would specifically take advantage of the partition coefficients of various solvents and solvent mixtures to extract organic compounds out of solutions or off the surface of solids, etc. Similarly, at the end of a soxhlet extraction, the reservoir glassware (depending on the the substrate which which we were working) might have a nasty, sticky organic film on the bottom. Wash with surfactant all day long and you may still have a film. Pour some diethyl ether, isopropyl alcohol or acetone into the glassware and the result is clean glassware.

Am I suggesting the two models (glassware vs fired brass) are the same? No. Does the surfactant method work? Sure it does. Can surfactants/micelles be saturated or inneffective? Yes. Might there be a better approach? Possibly.

Maybe I am seriously off-base here. How 'bout I just experiment and post the results. As I think about things, one might not even need the ultrasonic cleaner if my suspicions are correct (although it might accellerate the process).

The experiments begin tonight. More to follow,...
 
Maybe I am seriously off-base here. How 'bout I just experiment and post the results. As I think about things, one might not even need the ultrasonic cleaner if my suspicions are correct (although it might accellerate the process).

The experiments begin tonight. More to follow,...

Awesome. I'm all for curiosity & investigation, so I think you're far from being off base. Kudos to you. I'll look for your data. But from one scientist to another, be sure the experiments are well-controlled. There's plenty of hocus pocus out there, and a pic of a single clean case using a new home brew doesn't prove much, as you likely already know. I'd also want to know whether the new method represents an advance - is it cheaper? quicker? more effective? Does it extend the life of the brass? etc.

Good luck!
 
There are some really good threads out there on what solutions work well on what materials.

For brass, 2-3% acidic solutions heated in an ultrasonic cleaner with a surfactant seem to produce reliable results.

The various vendors have offered several formulas that differ from the home brew, mainly in the amount of acid neutralizing they require- if any.

From an economy standpoint, its hard to beat a lot of the established groundwork in this area....but as gun enthusiasts we're always trying to reinvent the wheel. Sometimes successfully.
 
On the castboolits forum there are a couple of sticky threads about using various liquid cleaning solutions. In particular you may find the discussions of phosphoric and citric acids interesting. Although I suspect you're already knowledgeable about the properties of the solutions discussed, you may still find value considering the context. These seem to be mainly about tarnish though.

22 page thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=83572&highlight=citric+acid

Recent 3 page thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=28750&page=3
 
i ordered a thumler's model B and the stainless pins. tried it for the first time today and i prefer it over the ultrasonic cleaning by far.
 
I settled on 1 or 2 teaspoons of citric acid crystals to one quart of water works well. It is easy; the cases and primer pockets are very clean. Resizing and seating primers is smooth.
 
I use 1 tbs Citric Acid/qt H2O + dish soap heated to a min of 150F. Dry. Then into the tumbler to polish and to put a thin coating of polish to inhibit tarnishing. With new solution it only take a few min.
 
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