I might be a little different than most. Maybe for me guns are more emotion than logic, but I suggest you hold both and check them out in person. The experience and ergonomics are a big part of my gun buying decision process. So, to answer your question, $200 gets you a gun I like better.
Universal revolver search :)
- Thread starter Katitmail
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Checked both guns in person in store. Ruger feels more "substantial" and I liked how it's finished, but Smith feels better, little lighter.
Sights in S&W good to go as is. On Ruger they definitely need to be replaced.
I also checked 686 SSR. I really liked that gun. Looks very nice
Sights in S&W good to go as is. On Ruger they definitely need to be replaced.
I also checked 686 SSR. I really liked that gun. Looks very nice
anothernewb
Member
OOohhh another iteration in the great smith VS ruger debate.
Best thing to do is buy both!!! I did, and they're like having two children. you love them equally, but each has their own uniqueness.
ok, now that that's out of the way. best thing to do is go with the one you like the feel of the best.
Lots of internet people will say that the ruger trigger is rougher Mine is nearly the equal of my smith 19. the double action is smooth, and the single action is within the tolerance of my trigger scale to my buddys 686 no dash. In point of fact, the double action is slightly lighter than his.
much is also said about the ruger being built like a tank. Mass doesn't lie, it's a heavier gun.
You mentioned the sights, I agree the front post on the ruger isn't super, but the ruger can do one thing the smith can't do easily, you can swap out for a hi viz front. that is a world of difference. A simple mod I highly recommend.
in the world of beauty lines, a 686 with the wood grips has a more elegant appearance than the ruger. In the world of look alone for display - I feel there's no contest there. smith all the way. The ruger has it's own look as well, but it's more of a chunky purpose-built form follows function look. However, that appeals to some as well.
One last thing I will mention with the ruger. Mine (and others around the web) does not like lead that much. the throats are very close to .357. Mine will shave a significant portion off of a .358 bullet. The situation is easily remedied though by reaming the throats. (something which I have decided not to do) or to shoot only jacketed or plated sized to .357.
Price is probably the only place they differ considerably. in my neck of the woods, a 686 is $150 to $250 more than the ruger in all barrel lengths. That's not an insignificant number to me. and used ones are non-existant. in 2 years checking 3 different shops in my area, I've seen a grand total of 2 used smiths and 1 used ruger. in both cases with the smith, the used price was still in excess of the NIB price of the ruger.
Best thing to do is buy both!!! I did, and they're like having two children. you love them equally, but each has their own uniqueness.
ok, now that that's out of the way. best thing to do is go with the one you like the feel of the best.
Lots of internet people will say that the ruger trigger is rougher Mine is nearly the equal of my smith 19. the double action is smooth, and the single action is within the tolerance of my trigger scale to my buddys 686 no dash. In point of fact, the double action is slightly lighter than his.
much is also said about the ruger being built like a tank. Mass doesn't lie, it's a heavier gun.
You mentioned the sights, I agree the front post on the ruger isn't super, but the ruger can do one thing the smith can't do easily, you can swap out for a hi viz front. that is a world of difference. A simple mod I highly recommend.
in the world of beauty lines, a 686 with the wood grips has a more elegant appearance than the ruger. In the world of look alone for display - I feel there's no contest there. smith all the way. The ruger has it's own look as well, but it's more of a chunky purpose-built form follows function look. However, that appeals to some as well.
One last thing I will mention with the ruger. Mine (and others around the web) does not like lead that much. the throats are very close to .357. Mine will shave a significant portion off of a .358 bullet. The situation is easily remedied though by reaming the throats. (something which I have decided not to do) or to shoot only jacketed or plated sized to .357.
Price is probably the only place they differ considerably. in my neck of the woods, a 686 is $150 to $250 more than the ruger in all barrel lengths. That's not an insignificant number to me. and used ones are non-existant. in 2 years checking 3 different shops in my area, I've seen a grand total of 2 used smiths and 1 used ruger. in both cases with the smith, the used price was still in excess of the NIB price of the ruger.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I will be in the minority but I find the .357 cartridge to be overrated. It's more bark than bite and far too dependent on high velocity and expansion to work. Velocity requires pressure and both combine for ear splitting muzzle blast. A moderately loaded big bore will put more lead on target without making your ears bleed. So I would choose a light 4" N-frame big bore over any of the chunky mid-frame .357's. Like this 629MG.
Or a mid-frame big bore single action like this custom Ruger .44Spl. The size of a .357 but lighter and much more potent.
Or this factory mid-frame Bisley .44Spl:
Or a mid-frame big bore single action like this custom Ruger .44Spl. The size of a .357 but lighter and much more potent.
Or this factory mid-frame Bisley .44Spl:
Cardboard_killer
Member
I personally think that the highest development of the 357 revolver is the model 27 in 6" or 8". Not convenient at all for carrying, but the size of it soaks up all recoil, and the trigger can be tuned as only an N-frame S&W trigger can be tuned.
Alternatively, the model 28 (the 27's "ugly sister") is the same gun without the high polish, and can be purchased used for under $500. One of the best revolvers I have is a model 28 that some master smith had tuned up, that I got at a pawn shop three years ago for $340 OTD.
Hoppes Love Potion
Member
If you like blued steel and walnut, an older K-frame in .38 Special is about as good as revolver shooting gets. Models 10, 14, and 15 are good places to start.
Don't own a S&W but probably should. So, I'll talk about what I do own.
I am a Ruger fan. I have a GP100 4" blued and a GP100 6" SS.
They are both absolute tanks! In sngle action the trigger just can't be beat. In double action, the triggers are very smooth but slightly heavy which is OK for me for safety reasons.
If I were to only choose one of the GPs, it would be stainless so aas not to wear the blue off the cylnder.
Just my 2 cents.
I am a Ruger fan. I have a GP100 4" blued and a GP100 6" SS.
They are both absolute tanks! In sngle action the trigger just can't be beat. In double action, the triggers are very smooth but slightly heavy which is OK for me for safety reasons.
If I were to only choose one of the GPs, it would be stainless so aas not to wear the blue off the cylnder.
Just my 2 cents.
Picked up my GP100 yesterday. After careful examination I'm little confused. Yes, it's built as a tank but.. All those surfaces inside - not machined, all edges sharp, can cut you.
There was some metal shavings around forcing cone. I guess this is what you get for the $$.. OTOH - trigger in single stage surprisingly nice, I like it.
Final verdict will be when I take it to range. It sure feels solid though. Is that normal for those guns?
There was some metal shavings around forcing cone. I guess this is what you get for the $$.. OTOH - trigger in single stage surprisingly nice, I like it.
Final verdict will be when I take it to range. It sure feels solid though. Is that normal for those guns?
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