Update (with pics) Stevens 520/Ranger 30

[The_Next_Generation]

Hey all,

Last week (Ish?) I posted about a Ward's Western Field 12ga that I offered $100 on to no avail. Well, I ran into the owner at the club and he let me have it for $100 this time around

I have a few questions about this gun. The first thing I would like to know is when it was produced (like everybody else...I know...). Normally, I can find this out on my own but my normally sufficient-googling hasn't turned up anything definitive. The S/N is 950xx and the side of the receiver read's:

Ward's Western Field
Model 30 - SB562A

The second thing I would like to know about this gun is if there is a special way of punching out the pin that holds the front of the trigger group in place. When I took it apart for a "white-glove" cleaning, I could get everything out but this pin. I tried hitting the punch with a mallet, but to no avail. Should I just hit it harder?

Honestly, I was lucky to get everything back in properly.. Let's see you try and get a 520 receiver back together with the trigger group pivoting all over the place Thank goodness the lifter spring can be slipped under the lifter and "encouraged" into it's little slot/hole spot.

The last thing I would like to know is if these guns prefer oil or grease. I assumed that since these guns came from the bygone days, that grease would be most appropriate on the sliding surfaces with light oil on the rotating ones.

Additionally, if you have had any experience with these shotguns at all I'd love to hear about it! I like reading about people and their guns, especially if I happen to own the same one

PICS!!!

Don't even THINK about trying to steal those cookies..






A couple more things...

The stock is decently cracked around the tang, any tips on how to fix this so it is seated tightly once again?

Also, where can one get a cool little "takedown" bag (or substitute) for one of these? I saw a cool one in an article somewhere where each half of the shotgun had its own sleeve, an end folded up to keep everything in it's sleeve, then the bag rolled up and was carried by two basic sections of nylon webbing. I can't find the article or picture at the moment. I know they make bags with velcro on the inside, but I like the idea of separate sleeves.

EDIT: Found the article and pics! Its a cool read so here ya go: http://ravelingroup.com/wordpress1/tag/12-gauge-shotguns/
Annnd pictures from the article for you lazy folks.. I know it says "prototype being designed by ravelingroup" so maybe its still not available.





- TNG

 

[Hunterdad]

Very nice!
I've been waiting for that bag to come out for some time. Until then, I got one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400410712908?redirect=mobile

It's certainly not the best, but it gets the job done.

 

[The_Next_Generation]

Not bad for a "paintball marker" case! I emailed the author of that article asking about his case and he responded with this:

I'm ordering some additional take-down cases and will hopefully have them before the end of October.

They will run about $75.00 each.

Please contact me in about 4 weeks to get an update on the take-down cases.

Thanks,

Steve Camp

75 bucks?! I guess small runs of unique products with a small market from custom manufacturers really are expensive..

 

[Hunterdad]

For $75, I'll keep my paintball case.

 

[Two Old Dogs]

The Wards model 30 is a variation of the Stevens Model 520. I believe your specimen is a Model 520A. The Model 520 was manufactured between 1912 and 1932 with some 191,000 being made.

There is a parts schematic at : www.gunpartscorp.com for the Stevens Model 520 which shows that the pin should be easy to remove. Try soaking the pin and trigger guard area with Kroil and let it set for a day or two. That should loosen it enough for removal.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

Some 2 minute epoxy or some good grade furniture glue will fix your stock.

 

[The_Next_Generation]

That's what I was thinking. I was going to mix up some JB weld in a ziploc then cut a small hole in the corner to squeeze it into a 4" deep by 1/8" wide hole I plan to drill through the crack and into the rest of the stock. I was then going to use a 1/8" steel rod the length of the hole to make it stronger and to force the epoxy further into the cracks.

Does this sound like a good idea to you guys, or is the steel rod overkill?

Thanks,
-TNG