I think you have that backwards. Your post was unprovoked insults not just to a large group of THR members (fanboys, schlubs) but also the OP (upgrade self-esteem). It was such a poor attitude and poor advice, it deserved a response.
Upgrade AR 15
- Thread starter Leathermarshmallow
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I think you have that backwards. Your post was unprovoked insults not just to a large group of THR members (fanboys, schlubs) but also the OP (upgrade self-esteem). It was such a poor attitude and poor advice, it deserved a response.
OK I will not try to impart all my wisdom on ARs that's others job
Further, that would only take 5minutes
HOWEVER, I will presume that your statement "100% reliable" would incorporate some basic safety checks on the gun after firing this many rounds, loose parts, obvious marks etc.
My 3 ups for you to consider...
National Match front sight pin (finer pin)
New trigger, or spring upgrade
free floated front handguard/tube
W.E.G.
Member
fanboy = gun owner who insists that someone else's gun is inferior because he paid more for his
schlub = in this context, one who belittles others' equipment based on generalizations, rumor and innuendo
If the shoe fits...
Ammo and spare parts are always good.
Preventative maintenance and regular maintenance are all expected, and assumed.
Neither makes the existing gun any "more acceptable" (OP's words).
By every indication, there is nothing wrong with the OP's rifle at all - except his apparent opinion of it as formed from the belittlement of others.
schlub = in this context, one who belittles others' equipment based on generalizations, rumor and innuendo
If the shoe fits...
Ammo and spare parts are always good.
Preventative maintenance and regular maintenance are all expected, and assumed.
Neither makes the existing gun any "more acceptable" (OP's words).
By every indication, there is nothing wrong with the OP's rifle at all - except his apparent opinion of it as formed from the belittlement of others.
Winchester101
Member
To the OP.
Don't be worried what it says on the side of your AR. As stated above, run more ammo through it, 1k - 1500 rds, and see how it functions and holds up. After such a "break in" period, I would look for any undue wear on any component and replace/upgrade any such component with a quality product. That's one of the great points of the AR platform, quality parts from many manufacturers that all fit on any standard gun.
The area that causes malfunctions for some people is the magazine, that is one area where I would spring for good, name brand products. Or buy some military mags, mark each one with a number and test the hell outta them. Keep track of any mag, by number, that is in the gun if/when it hiccups and relegate that mag to non-critical use or trash it. Mags are more important to the function of any semi-auto than what's written on the side of the reciever.
My AR is a box stock Rock River with an A2 fixed carry handle (bought it instead of a flat top because I got a deal on it unfired from a guy who HAD to have a flat top). I took a little flak from the tactical timmys when I showed up at the 3 gun matches with it, not because of the brand but because of the type, however I can run and gun with the best of them with that gun. Most of our match stages are fired well inside 100 yards and the issue A2 sights work just fine for me, I always end up in the running at the local matches.
Bottom line is, it's the nut behind the butt that makes a difference, not the name on the side. Assuming a totally reliable gun, of course.
W101
Don't be worried what it says on the side of your AR. As stated above, run more ammo through it, 1k - 1500 rds, and see how it functions and holds up. After such a "break in" period, I would look for any undue wear on any component and replace/upgrade any such component with a quality product. That's one of the great points of the AR platform, quality parts from many manufacturers that all fit on any standard gun.
The area that causes malfunctions for some people is the magazine, that is one area where I would spring for good, name brand products. Or buy some military mags, mark each one with a number and test the hell outta them. Keep track of any mag, by number, that is in the gun if/when it hiccups and relegate that mag to non-critical use or trash it. Mags are more important to the function of any semi-auto than what's written on the side of the reciever.
My AR is a box stock Rock River with an A2 fixed carry handle (bought it instead of a flat top because I got a deal on it unfired from a guy who HAD to have a flat top). I took a little flak from the tactical timmys when I showed up at the 3 gun matches with it, not because of the brand but because of the type, however I can run and gun with the best of them with that gun. Most of our match stages are fired well inside 100 yards and the issue A2 sights work just fine for me, I always end up in the running at the local matches.
Bottom line is, it's the nut behind the butt that makes a difference, not the name on the side. Assuming a totally reliable gun, of course.
W101
Deep breath taliv. You're normally better than this.
As for what to buy/upgrade. I think a spare bolt is a good idea, regardless of who made your rifle. It and its components, again regardless of manufacturer, are wear items just like springs. They typically wear slower than springs, but in the end a high round count rifle will need them replaced on a regular cycle. I would go with a quality brand for the spare. I'd also pick up a new set of springs. They too wear out. From that I'd only replace what seems like a drawback for your shooting. Checking things like staking on the gas key is something that should be done on all bolts, again regardless of maker. I may look at replacing the extractor/springs/oring if a little cheap peace of mind is of benefit. Those could keep things running well a bit longer.
If it's a range toy you could wait on all of this until something breaks. If you use it in games/competitions, buying a replacement of "respected quality" and keeping the factory parts as back up wouldn't be a bad idea. If you use this as a duty weapon, well, use your head. Replace what you fear and then test the replacements before you need to take the weapon in the field.
As for what to buy/upgrade. I think a spare bolt is a good idea, regardless of who made your rifle. It and its components, again regardless of manufacturer, are wear items just like springs. They typically wear slower than springs, but in the end a high round count rifle will need them replaced on a regular cycle. I would go with a quality brand for the spare. I'd also pick up a new set of springs. They too wear out. From that I'd only replace what seems like a drawback for your shooting. Checking things like staking on the gas key is something that should be done on all bolts, again regardless of maker. I may look at replacing the extractor/springs/oring if a little cheap peace of mind is of benefit. Those could keep things running well a bit longer.
If it's a range toy you could wait on all of this until something breaks. If you use it in games/competitions, buying a replacement of "respected quality" and keeping the factory parts as back up wouldn't be a bad idea. If you use this as a duty weapon, well, use your head. Replace what you fear and then test the replacements before you need to take the weapon in the field.
dprice3844444
member
the thing on the receiving end of the projectile is not going to be aware of what make 223 rifle fired the bullet.i have several olympic arms ar's,semi/full,and bought them in the 80's in matched upper/lowers.found new/unused colt chrome lined barreled uppers, when everybody had the car-15 slabsided uppers,and were dumping them for f/a and fancy bbls.took the bbls and parts and built mine.sold the slab sided pieces for 200 each.then hunted for the rest of the parts to assemble.only prob i ever had was that pin in the bolt carrier that rides in that oblong hole broke.i only use that pin now if it's made by colt.
several hundred more rounds would be a good start. a sling is the only accessory that i find necessary for longarms. everything else is "mission specific" or personal preference. accessories won't make a rifle magically become better built.
follow ugaarguy's advice.
since the mods seem to be involved in this thread, it should be noted that the term "fanboy" is slung around in a derogatory fashion in just about every ar thread. if a member doesn't agree that some rifles are simply built better than others, so be it. but name calling is certainly not the "high road".
follow ugaarguy's advice.
since the mods seem to be involved in this thread, it should be noted that the term "fanboy" is slung around in a derogatory fashion in just about every ar thread. if a member doesn't agree that some rifles are simply built better than others, so be it. but name calling is certainly not the "high road".
Strykervet
member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2010
- Messages
- 1,610
I've had dealings with Oly, they are right down the street, as in just a few miles away. I'm an AR nut, I build all my own, and to have them that close by and that I haven't been there in nearly ten years should tell you something. Rainier Arms, several miles away, are light years better, and they cater to AR builders and nuts. You'd think having an AR factory close by would be the BOMB, but it isn't. Not this one anyway.
Not to say I haven't had an Oly that did well. I built it myself and I'm not sure exactly how many Oly parts went into it, but most of the big ones save the trigger group were. I can say their hammer and trigger is atrocious, and a lot of their other parts are very poorly designed too. The bolt carrier looks like it was roughly hand made with a file and a dremel tool! The barrels? I've seen a couple perform okay, but most didn't. A bull barrel that shoots 2MOA!? Come on. This particular M4 barrel was okay though. The rifle was fairly reliable and tough enough for range or police work, but not military work, not by a longshot.
Their receivers are okay, they are better than a lot of the El Cheapos out there actually, but not nearly as good as a Noveske (they actually ARE nicer, you can tell most during the build). And the extra money you spend on that name will make any rifle you build worth more, trust me here. A $2000 parts rifle built on a Noveske can be a $2000 rifle, but one built on an Oly for some reason is hard to get rid of for anything over $1000. They ran that company and that name into the ground, refuse to make changes (we asked, they refused even though they could have gotten a military contract to make SDM upgrades for M4's ten years ago for Stryker Bde(s)). Said their design was perfect, no need to change. Not even their gas blocks that blow off after 2000 rounds. Buy 'em as is or blow off. We blew off.
So if I were you and I wanted to upgrade that rifle, I'd do one of three things. I'd cut losses and sell it now if I ever intended on selling it. Oly maintains a site for Oly fans. They don't understand why Oly has such a bad name over there. May be a good place to list it. Local sites do well too, but you won't sell it here unless you give it away.
Now if I were to keep it and not worry about the name on the side, I'd change the barrel with a good quality barrel, I'd put a Geissele trigger of your choice in it, and I'd change that junk bolt carrier with a JP Ent. "Tactical" bolt carrier. This will give you a fine rifle as good as any other fine rifle save the name for the most part. And if you ever intend on getting rid of it, take these parts back out and put the Oly stuff back in. You can put your new parts on a matched Noveske receiver set with JP small parts and have a very nice and expensive rifle plus the Oly one --or sell the Oly later to cover the cost of upgrading your PARTS to another receiver set. You may even get an optic out of it.
Finally, you could just keep it how it is, not invest anymore in it, and just shoot it until it fails. Use it as a practice rifle. A beater. A truck rifle. But I wouldn't invest much in upgrading an Oly unless you plan on doing what I mentioned above. See, been here, done that. I just sold the Oly for $750 not that long ago, an M4 type with their rail. That rail is junk too by the way, most stuff doesn't fit.
I have an M4 now I built to be a copy of the SOPMOD M4 i was issued in the army. Only difference is the 3gun trigger (which I would have preferred over the burst trigger or auto trigger any day) and AAC Brakeout. It has an LMT upper, and a Noveske lower for now, but it will be the LMT SOPMOD later when the Noveske goes to the .300BLK I'm building. Nothing wrong with it, but it just has more "value" if most of the major parts match. Anyway, to say that Oly M4 was anywhere close to this M4 I have now would be a grossly uninformed claim. If informed, then just stupid. The Oly M4 was a decent shooter, maybe a good truck rifle. The M4 I have now, it is one of the best, maybe THE best I've ever had, and I've had a few.
Lots of ways you can handle this really. These are just my opinions based on how I'd do it or how I've actually done it. Take it for what it's worth. Good luck!
Not to say I haven't had an Oly that did well. I built it myself and I'm not sure exactly how many Oly parts went into it, but most of the big ones save the trigger group were. I can say their hammer and trigger is atrocious, and a lot of their other parts are very poorly designed too. The bolt carrier looks like it was roughly hand made with a file and a dremel tool! The barrels? I've seen a couple perform okay, but most didn't. A bull barrel that shoots 2MOA!? Come on. This particular M4 barrel was okay though. The rifle was fairly reliable and tough enough for range or police work, but not military work, not by a longshot.
Their receivers are okay, they are better than a lot of the El Cheapos out there actually, but not nearly as good as a Noveske (they actually ARE nicer, you can tell most during the build). And the extra money you spend on that name will make any rifle you build worth more, trust me here. A $2000 parts rifle built on a Noveske can be a $2000 rifle, but one built on an Oly for some reason is hard to get rid of for anything over $1000. They ran that company and that name into the ground, refuse to make changes (we asked, they refused even though they could have gotten a military contract to make SDM upgrades for M4's ten years ago for Stryker Bde(s)). Said their design was perfect, no need to change. Not even their gas blocks that blow off after 2000 rounds. Buy 'em as is or blow off. We blew off.
So if I were you and I wanted to upgrade that rifle, I'd do one of three things. I'd cut losses and sell it now if I ever intended on selling it. Oly maintains a site for Oly fans. They don't understand why Oly has such a bad name over there. May be a good place to list it. Local sites do well too, but you won't sell it here unless you give it away.
Now if I were to keep it and not worry about the name on the side, I'd change the barrel with a good quality barrel, I'd put a Geissele trigger of your choice in it, and I'd change that junk bolt carrier with a JP Ent. "Tactical" bolt carrier. This will give you a fine rifle as good as any other fine rifle save the name for the most part. And if you ever intend on getting rid of it, take these parts back out and put the Oly stuff back in. You can put your new parts on a matched Noveske receiver set with JP small parts and have a very nice and expensive rifle plus the Oly one --or sell the Oly later to cover the cost of upgrading your PARTS to another receiver set. You may even get an optic out of it.
Finally, you could just keep it how it is, not invest anymore in it, and just shoot it until it fails. Use it as a practice rifle. A beater. A truck rifle. But I wouldn't invest much in upgrading an Oly unless you plan on doing what I mentioned above. See, been here, done that. I just sold the Oly for $750 not that long ago, an M4 type with their rail. That rail is junk too by the way, most stuff doesn't fit.
I have an M4 now I built to be a copy of the SOPMOD M4 i was issued in the army. Only difference is the 3gun trigger (which I would have preferred over the burst trigger or auto trigger any day) and AAC Brakeout. It has an LMT upper, and a Noveske lower for now, but it will be the LMT SOPMOD later when the Noveske goes to the .300BLK I'm building. Nothing wrong with it, but it just has more "value" if most of the major parts match. Anyway, to say that Oly M4 was anywhere close to this M4 I have now would be a grossly uninformed claim. If informed, then just stupid. The Oly M4 was a decent shooter, maybe a good truck rifle. The M4 I have now, it is one of the best, maybe THE best I've ever had, and I've had a few.
Lots of ways you can handle this really. These are just my opinions based on how I'd do it or how I've actually done it. Take it for what it's worth. Good luck!
Last edited:
ugaarguy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2006
- Messages
- 13,828
Let's see, I'm one of this forum's most ardent advocates of the S&W M&P15 Sport. At $600 or so new it's one of the least expensive ARs on the market. Whenever I make posts advocating this rifle I reference qualitative features, and quantitative performance both experienced first hand, and documented by others.
So, by your definitions I'm neither a fanboy nor a schlub.
And I find this out just as those new nicknames were starting to grow on me. 1) Check the staking of the gas key bolts. If they are not staked or are staked incorrectly, remove the bolts, clean the mating surfaces and inspect. Clean and inspect the bolts. Better yet, replace them. If the surfaces are not damaged, reassemble and torque the bolts to spec and stake the key properly
2) Check the receiver extension castle nut. If it's not staked or is staked incorrectly, remove the castle nut, clean and inspect threads. Reinstall with proper torque. I recommend torquing and backing off twice before final torque to seat everything. If necessary, replace end plate. DO NOT USE LOCKTITE
3) Keep BCG lubed
4) Buy good magazines
5) Buy ammo the rifle runs on
6) Take a carbine class
7) Rinse and repeat steps 3 through 6
What you will need to do next will become obvious
2) Check the receiver extension castle nut. If it's not staked or is staked incorrectly, remove the castle nut, clean and inspect threads. Reinstall with proper torque. I recommend torquing and backing off twice before final torque to seat everything. If necessary, replace end plate. DO NOT USE LOCKTITE
3) Keep BCG lubed
4) Buy good magazines
5) Buy ammo the rifle runs on
6) Take a carbine class
7) Rinse and repeat steps 3 through 6
What you will need to do next will become obvious
fatcat4620
Member
Ammo Mags Ammo
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