Upside down primer

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MoreIsLess

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Due to operator error, I am sure, I have several rounds that have a live primer upside down in the primer pocket. Is it safe to de-prime these?
 
I have had that issue on occasion. I did de-prime them using a standard sizing die. You must go very slow and be sure to wear PPG.
 
I did it only one time because the first time I used the priming tool on my Lee turret, it hit something and flipped the primer upside down and inserted it. I just put some ears on and ran it through the sizing/depriming die REALLY SLOWLY. It didn't go off or even make much of a mark on the cup at all.
 
Press it out and reinsert it right side up.

Primers are detonated by impact not by pressure. That's why the firing pin has a strong spring.
 
I Have also after using protection. But all the reading (Many Many Hours) As we all do. I believe its a big no no, and would have to say its
not ok. But that's me. I wouldn't recommend. Happy N Y and stay safe!
 
I actual did this priming 200 .308 win cases this weekend. One was put in backwards.

Just very slowly press it out with your decapping die and very ear and eye protection and you'll be just fine. Mine came right out and then I flipped it and primed it the right way.

Go ahead, it's perfectly fine.
 
Just push it out with your decapping die. It's no big deal, as long as you don't slam it into the decapping pin.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I followed the advice above and was able to successfully de-cap and recover all the primers that were backwards
 
When you look inside a primer you see a piece of metal that has 3 spokes that go to the rim. This is the anvil. For the primer to detonate, the spokes need to be pressing against a surface, usually the primer pocket base. When inserted upside down, the only thing holding the anvil is the side of the primer. For that reason it is fairly safe to press out the primer, just don't act like a raging maniac.
 
The priming compound in the primer cup will ignite when the striker/firing pin quickly indents the cup and compresses the compound against the anvil tip. Pushing on the upside down primer cup with no resistance from the anvil will not ignite the priming compound.

This sometimes happens when the primer is not seated deep enough in the primer pocket so the anvil tip is not set against the priming compound. The initial striker/firing pin strike on the cup will seat the primer deeper, setting the anvil tip against the priming compound and subsequent strike will ignite the priming compound.

Below are close up pictures of disassembled primers showing the anvil, sealant/cups and priming compound (the color you see is not the color of priming compound but rather the color of sealant/cup). As you can see and measure, there are minute variations in the anvil height and pre-set depth of anvil feet in the cup depending on the brand. Since primer pocket depth varies based on head stamp and whether modified by reloaders, seating the primers deep enough below flush (.004") will ensure proper ignition.

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Primers seated flush

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Comparison picture showing 4 different brand primers seated .004" and .008" below flush with different amount of primer cup flattening. .004" below flush is what I aim for to ensure reliable primer ignition. .008" below flush was done for this thread to test if deeper seated primers still functioned properly - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7810685#post7810685

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They don't go off when you push them in.
They won't go off when you push them out.

Like Fred said, just don't act crazy and go slamming the decapping pin into it. Slow and easy and you'll be good.
 
If you think about it, it's very hard to slam the case and primer when you have a long arm on the press. Even if you try to push the handle as fast as you can, it translates into much slower speed at the other end when the other end is so close to the fulcrum. Also, by the time the pin hits the primer, the case is up inside the die, so even if it goes off it's covered. There's nothing to worry about. A primer needs a sharp strike, not a push, to go off.
 
I followed the advice above and was able to successfully de-cap and recover all the primers that were backwards
Wonderful! This thread maybe should be a sticky...
 
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