using lee liquid alox?

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1858rem

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i would really appreciate it if you guys wouldn't mind posting a few pics of finished lubed bullets (with LEE liquid alox) . im trying to get an idea of what is the ideal amount to use to prevent leading.
 
IF I tumble, I tumble twice, once in Lee alox and once in Johnson's paste wax so my pics wont really help.

I do recommend the second tumble in JPW. First, No leading or very little signs of it. Second, it takes away the tacky sticky feel of alox. Plus, it has carnuba wax in it so when I clean my bores, they shine!!!

Cheers...

LGB
 
I only use it on Lee cast .45-70 bullets. I warm it up just a bit in the micro to make it flow easier and then finger smear it around the driving bands and grooves. I then set them up on wax paper to dry over nite. I tried putting some LA in a container with some pistol projectiles once. It was messy and seemed like a big waste of the LA. My .45-70 process works well for me. If nobody posts any pics, tomorrow I'll do some.
 
The first shot here shows a bullet with a bit too much of the Lee Liquid Alox. You can see how it's puddled in the front driving band of the bullet. It doesn't hurt anything at all, but uses up your lube faster. I usually thin the stuff with mineral spirits, but didn't on the bullet in this case. It's not a tumble lube bullet, and leaving the lube full strength keeps more of it in the grease groove.

toomuch.jpg
I shoot these at approx. 1000 fps in my Ruger 45 Colt. 252 gr SWC cast from WW's, and no leading.


The next shot shows bullets with Liquid Alox that has been thinned with mineral spirits. I just put about a tablespoon in a new bottle of lube and shake it well. Then put about a hundred bullets in a margarine tub, squirt on some lube, put the top on the tub and shake it up.

justright.jpg
Very little puddling in the front driving band. Hopefully you can see it okay in the pic.
These are 200 grain TL bullets. I shoot them in 45 ACP at about 850 FPS. No lead after 200 rounds.
The bullet should just have a golden look to it without any big gobs in the grooves.
 
I take a large jiff peanut butter jar, put 100 or so bullets in. Squirt two squirts (about a teaspoon) in on them put on the lid and shake till they are coated.
Then I dump them in a beer tray until they are dry (next day).

I do this to all of my swaged or cast bullets irregardless of any other lube on them. I have found it prevents any minor leading completely!!!!
 
going by the looks of it i need to double up......umm, again lol. maybe ill do less at a time, normally i cast up 300-500 at a time and try to lube half at a time since i usually cast 200g and 255g.

i have the 255g loaded to about 930fps avg and am seeing lead after 20+rds, not being a tl bullet i figured thats my problem. the bullets dont expand at all even going that fast so the lead should be plenty hard, just plain wheel weights.

i guess ill go lube up again and see how goes it. and thanks for the replies
 
I'm usually a fan of Lee reloading tools and their other products. The Lee Liquid Alox does seem to work OK but in my experience it builds up on the face of the seating die, seating the bullet deeper and deeper into the case.

I know just clean it out, which does work but is a hassle to do every 5 to 10 rounds. Other than this its OK

Watch your OAL.
 
I'm getting better accuracy out of my Federal #714 target .22 LR ammo by dipping the tray into a puddle of Alox. It really helps!
 
jcwit:

I know just clean it out, which does work but is a hassle to do every 5 to 10 rounds.

That does seem like a lot of cleaning, to me. I do have to clean out my seater, yes, but only about every 150-200 rounds. I wonder if coating the seater nose with mica or graphite would help your situation?
 
Just picked up 2 used Lyman # 45sizers/lubers at a gun show, $35 for both plus had some (not all) of the more popular sizers. So no longer use the Lee.
 
These are the only pics I have of lee liquid alox in use by me. These are 100 grain .308 RN, NON tumble lube, regular grease groove boolits. I chose to do them this way,(dipped while holding the nose in a tweezers), because, I didn't want the nose to have LLA on it. I ran these through a lee .308 push through sizer after lubing. The grease grooves were pretty well filled with LLA.

P2220036.jpg

They were moved once before being allowed to dry.

P2220037.jpg

These were loaded into 7.62 X 25 tokorav rounds. Very accurate,(well as accurate as jacketed in the clunky old CZ 52). No leading at top velocity either!

If I get ambitious later, I may take a pic of some tumble lubed 9mm 125 grainers for my 357 sig.
 
Just picked up 2 used Lyman # 45sizers/lubers at a gun show, $35 for both plus had some (not all) of the more popular sizers. So no longer use the Lee.

That's just great news, JC. If I sound sour, I am.

LGB
 
Just picked up 2 used Lyman # 45sizers/lubers at a gun show, $35 for both plus had some (not all) of the more popular sizers. So no longer use the Lee.

Ya just gotta keep looking for the ratty looking boxes under the tables at the shows. That's where the treasure is sometimes.

Which gun show was that, and where was I? I gotta spend more time at those shows, crawling along looking under the tables.:what::uhoh::eek: I found a couple good deals at the Oshkosh show last Saturday. 50 new starline 45-70 brass, $30.95, 1000 WLP $29.50, 1# longshot, $20.95. A couple of cloth long gun cases for $3.95 and 7.95, got both for 10 bucks, suitable for transporting a couple extra rifles to the range.
 
Most people using Liquid Alox use too much lub at the first. So did I, but soon learned that just a little goes a long way.
I now use a very light coat on any bullets for my pistols and a double light coat on non-gaschecked bullets for my 30/30 Marlin Micro-Groove rifle or my .308 Ruger.

On the rifles I put a very light coat,let dry and then another very light coat. I shoot the bullets unsized.
 
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