Using small rifle primers for handgun loads?

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I'm guessing harder cup = more pressure needed to reliably seal primer pocket?
Maybe it's best not to use them for powder puff target loads.

Correct. The harder cup requires higher pressure to deform the primer to seal in the primer pocket to keep gas from escaping. Weak SPR/SRPM loads in 9mm will gas cut, higher pressure loads will not. I speak from experience.
 
Shot a few .38SPL WC with the standard charge of Bullseye and Remington 6-1/2s from a 642 and a Sec Six this week. Shot fine, very accurate, no signs of overpressure, no pierced primers, no leak-back onto the breach face.

I'll try some of these in .357Mag loads next.
 
I use small rifle primers for my 357 mag silhouette loads. Is 357 Mag a pistol or rifle round? - You can get the cartridge in rifles or pistols. I'm just mentioning this to show that in rounds like 357 Mag it isn't really a pistol or rifle round, and small rifle and small pistol primers are very similar, with the rifle ones having a thicker cup to withstand higher pressures generated in SOME rifle cartridges they can be used for. As always though with a new component, start low and build the load back up.
 
The SP primers are made for the ignition of 10 grs. loads or less. The RP are for ignition of larger volume loads in rifle cases. The RP is going to run a very high pressure and create a violent ignition in a handgun. These primers will cause the bullet to move out before the powder charge is ignited completely. Can you do it yes, is it a good idea? :confused:
 
The SP primers are made for the ignition of 10 grs. loads or less. The RP are for ignition of larger volume loads in rifle cases. The RP is going to run a very high pressure and create a violent ignition in a handgun. These primers will cause the bullet to move out before the powder charge is ignited completely. Can you do it yes, is it a good idea?

Well I guess if you say so. However used SRP in thousands of hand gun loads with no ill effects. But I usually only load in the mid range.
 
Yes I agree with the practice, as jcwit is saying, even if the theory (wherever it comes from...) apparently says no don't do it. My 180GN full 357 Mag loads used to knock over 50lb of steel at 200m out of my 6" 686 seem to work find without blowing the gun up using rifle primers... The 9mm stuff I loaded worked well too, with no noticeable difference to using pistol primers. I went back to pistol primers on 9mm for more trustworthy ignition, not that any of the 9mm with rifle primers failed to go off first time.

You can really use any components together if they fit, and you start from a very minimum and safe load, and TEST and CHECK all the way to a load you're happy with. Of course combining components that there are no recipes for should be done with more equipment than the average reloader has, but that hasn't stopped PLENTY of people doing just that, and successfully, for the most part.

EDIT: I'm not saying the last part to convince anyone to try these things themselves, just that it can, and has been done, with no ill effects.
 
Correct Route, many many things are told to us not t do that are perfectly OK. If one reads their owners manuals throughly most manufactures manuals state "Do not shoot reloads, it will void your warranty". Most of these warning's are lawyer motivated I believe.
 
I don't have the link but read one of CCIs write ups of there primer knowledge. The related pistil primes burn rate to be a fast punch & rifle to be slow & long. Much like we at powder. I think it a 22 Hornet that after testing decided SPP were a better choice then rifle because the neck tension wasn't enough to hold the bullet in place until the power was lite enough to keep the bullet moving. They said that there pressure readings shoes that the bullet getting drove into the lande then stopping until the pressure of the powder caused the second spike.

I've used both pistol in rifle & rifle in pistol without seeing a difference.
 
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