Very confused about trimmers... need help!

[crash32]

I was on the phone with Brownell's today and was in the process of ordering a Wilson trimmer and then I FREAKED!!!
I saw that it was $66 so I was thinking thats great so I ordered it until I found out that was not the micrometer one and also the $66 model did not come with a base. I definitely want a base so I can bolt it into my bench and not have to rely on a vise to hold it. The micrometer trimmer with the base was going to run me up to $190!!!
After talking to the tech guy at Brownell's I also came to find out that Wilson does not make a case holder for my 50 Beowulf. In that case the only cartridge that I would be trimming is my 300 Remington Ultra Mag. So it got me thinking is it worth me spending more than $150 for a trimmer that I will only use for one or two cartridges? My 500 S&W is straight as well as my 50 Beowulf so I suppose I will not need to trim those cases anyways.... right?
Maybe someone can chime in and tell me that the Wilson is worth every penny plus more or someone might chime in and tell me that there is a much better option for me!
It is my understanding that if I get the micrometer Wilson then I can pre set exactly how much to trim off and there is no guess work involved and that the length is perfect every single time. Does this mean if I get the normal Wilson that I will have to measure and then trim and then measure again and then trim and then measure etc etc?
Sorry, but I am new to all of this and have tons of questions! Please understand that just because I am new to this does not mean that I want to purchase "budget" reloading supplies. In the future I am interested in getting a 338 Lapua so I want some quality tools! I do not want to get mediocre items only to have to "upgrade" later costing me more money in the future. I want to get it right the first time!

 

[243winxb]

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-trimmers/universal-carbide-trimmer.php Buy the correct pilots for the cartridges your trimming. The carbide cutter is a + over the standard head. Later, if you want to outside neck turn, there is a tool for that also. I do not see a listing for the 50 Beowulf pilot, but another of the same diameter should work. (.50 Action Express or 500 S & W )

 

[moxie]

You should trim your 500 S&W and other heavy straight revolver cases because these require a good roll crimp to prevent bullet jump. Trimming all the cases to the same length will allow you to crimp and maintain the same OAL.

 

[cfullgraf]

I have a L E Wilson trimmer with most of the Sinclair upgrades, micrometer head, base and shark fin clamp. I like it where I do not do high volume trimming or for cartridges that I do not shoot alot of.

With all the add ons, it does get pricey. But, I find it fairly quick and very repeatable.

I also use several WFT trimmers for cartridges that I do lots of trimming, 223 Remington, 200 BLK, 204 Ruger, etc. They are about $70-$80 for one cartridge for the Model !. They may have a model with replaceable cartridges for different cartridges, but I forget. There are at least two other trimmers similar to the WFT, one is the Trim-It. They have slightly different features.

The Lee trimming system is economical and works pretty well. I found as the cases get larger, the Lee system gets a little bit more difficult to work with.

There are other trimmers on the market that I have not used and cannot comment. Prices go from reasonable to obscene. Just depends on how deep your pockets are.

 

[crash32]

Would the 500 s&w holder work for the 50 beowulf although the beowulf's rim is akin to a 7x39?

 

[Rule3]

Look at the RCBS Trin Pro 2 if you want a manual (crank) trimmer. It can also be adapted to run with a electric drill if you want.

The new version does not require shell holders it is universal. It has pilots for the 500 SW and the 50 AE which should be the same as the 50 Beowold (#50) how clever You will have to buy the pilot separately.

I would call RCBS to verify. I have the older one which requires shell holders but it works well and adjusts easy and precise. I rigged it up with a drill for doing lots of 223.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/817007/rcbs-trim-pro-2-manual-case-trimmer-kit?cm_vc=S014

 

[lightman]

The Wilson trimmer, all tricked out, is a great tool. It is pricy! The micrometer will let you set up a cut without guess work, but the standard trimmer will require measuring the case. Before I had the mic, I always saved an odd case that was the correct length to use as a pattern for setting up.

Most reloaders expand on the calibers that they load for, sooner or later, and you probably will, too. The expense is something that you will have to decide about. If you really want quality, the Wilson is really good. For the one caliber that you can't get a case holder for, from Wilson, you might look at the Lee tool. For $10 or so you can get a case gauge and shell holder that will work in a hand drill.

Good Luck with your decision.

 

[Grumulkin]

It is my understanding that if I get the micrometer Wilson then I can pre set exactly how much to trim off and there is no guess work involved and that the length is perfect every single time.

I don't think so. The advantage to a micrometer case trimmer is that when you trim a case and then measure it, it's easier to dial in the correction needed. You still need to check for the appropriate trim length every time you set up to do a batch if you've changed anything at all.

I have a micrometer Redding case trimmer; I haven't used it in months and may never use it again. For small batches of cases, a trim die works well and provides very consistent lengths without any fussing around. When I'm doing one or two thousand, I have a powered RCBS case trimmer.

I also have a manual Forster case trimmer. I bought one a long time ago and then thinking the newer micrometer Redding trimmer would be better, sold it. I was a bit disappointed, bought another Forster trimmer and put the Redding one away. I believe the Forster trimmer comes in two sizes; I think the one I have wouldn't be large enough to trim a 300 RUM case.

It's unlikely the need will EVER come up to trim a straight walled case and that includes the 500 S&W Magnum. For those you need to crimp, a Lee Factory Crimp Die will crimp them just fine even if there is a little variability in case lengths. Also, rimless straight walled cartridges headspace on the mouth of the case and if you trim them below specs, headspace will be excessive.

 

[crash32]

The RCBS trimmer that has an universal unit sounds very appealing to me. Is there an advantage that the wilson with a cartridge specific case holder has over the universal RCBS? I don't see how the universal unit works, but suppose it works well.
I want something quality that will do an amazing job and last for years..... just still unsure if the Wilson is worth the extra $100 premium over the other good trimmers. Maybe I would be the happiest if I just suck it up and shell out the extra cash for the Wilson, but then again maybe not!!! I hate it when I am indecisive!

 

[Rule3]

Once you have trimmed a piece of brass (any caliber) to the correct length, you mark it and save it as a guide. They when you want to trim more you just put it in slide the cutter over till it hits the case mouth and lock it. Done. You do not need the micrometer has marks. The RCBS has marks, I never use it. The new model k=just has a case holder that will hold any case rather than buying separate ones for each size.

Look at the Hornady also, they all pretty much work on the same method.

 

[z7]

I can't speak to your caliber problem but from experience the Wilson trimmer is great, even without the micrometer. I frequently switch between 223 and 308 and it takes about 30 seconds to switch. I trim 223 to 1.750" and 308 to 2.005" exactly each time. The variance is lower than my calipers can measure. I do not see a benefit in a micrometer. I do see the benefit in a power adapter, I just trimmed about 300 223 this evening, my hands are sore

 

[RainDodger]

Just like cfullgraf above, I have a Wilson trimmer, etc. .... and you CAN bolt a basic Wilson trimmer to your bench, and you can add all the other stuff including a micrometer, later. Easy to do (I did exactly that). The Wilson is very nice - they don't get any better in my opinion. I also use the WFT trimmer when I'm doing bulk cases - like say 500 5.56 cases at a time. I've used the Wilson for probably 25 or 30 years now, usually for rifle cartridges that I don't load in bulk.

Fyi, the micrometer is nice, that's true.... but you don't really have to have it. Especially in the beginning.

 

[GLOOB]

I am pretty disappointed with my Wilson trimmer. It is cumbersome getting a bottleneck case in/out of the holder. There's a dance of twisting and tapping that is best done by someone with gumby wrists. Forget straight wall. You are lucky they don't make a holder for your beowolf, because you would throw it in the garbage after the first day.

I tried to like my Wilson, cuz it's "the best," and I bought it, afterall. I tried to leave it setup for only one caliber, at least. But I eventually let it go, entirely. I think Wilson is only practical if you can tell the difference between half a mil, here or there. And then I would be assuming it's better. Haven't verified, and don't care.

 

[bhhacker]

Crash I have an orange lyman trimmer with several pilots ill sell you for 60$ + flat rate box. I use a drill instead nowadays and its just collecting dust. PM me if interested.

 

[cfullgraf]

I am pretty disappointed with my Wilson trimmer. It is cumbersome getting a bottleneck case in/out of the holder. There's a dance of twisting and tapping that is best done by someone with gumby wrists.

For inserting the case in the holder, I just wrap the base of the case to seat it in the holder. I have a small block of UHMW polyethylene for this purpose but a piece of hardwood or something similar would work as well.

To remove the case, I have a block with a hole large enongh for the case but too small for the case holder. I have a rod the fits in the neck of the case and rests on the case head. A tap with a 4 oz hammer drops the case out of the holder.

Easy peasy.

With a little practice and trial and error, you find optimum position for the block and inserting/removing the case from the holder is quick.

Wrapping the case on the case mouth as Wilson recommends to remove the case from the holder never set well with me.

I have not done much trimming of straight wall cases on the Wilson trimmer. I would think the case holder with the wedge to hold the base of the case would work well but would be slow to use. One of these days, I will trim some straight walled pistol cases for 357 Magnum.

 

[quartermaster]

Love my Lyman power trimmer. It's easy to adjust accurately, no shellholders, but not sure it would hold 50 cal. Fast and accurate

 

[GT1]

Lyman universal is great, and as fast as most unless you spend hundreds. Even the hand crank version is fast, in, a couple cranks and out.
I've watched the WFT vids and I can go that fast on mine hand cranking.

I bought the drill adapter, but since I don't have my trimmer hard mounted I don't get much advantage. I only pull it out for 223 and when I have an ice cream bucket full of brass.

 

[rskent]

Or you could save yourself a lot of time and effort and get a lee setup in a drill press.

 

[GLOOB]

^I use the Zip Trim chuck and the drill spindle in a cordless drill. It makes 223 cases real fast and easy. The larger diameter cases aren't as easy, though, since there's less room for error between where the Zip Trim is open far enough to hold a case and where it screws itself apart.

I have a drill press, but it's not quite as good, IMO. Spinning the case rather than the cutter just works a little better at keeping things concentric. And I also like to do the chamfer at the same time.

 

[FROGO207]

I use the Lee trimmer system with the sizes they offer. I have an RCBS lathe type for those they don't. Also note that I have never measured or trimmed any auto pistol brass in 30+ years. I use the Lee trimmer bit chucked into a 1/2 " drill press (from Harbor Freight) and the press table to regulate length trimmed. I use a brown cloth glove with the plastic sticky dots to hold the brass so it will not spin. On a FEW longer bottlenecked length pins I used sand paper to make the wide neck area of the pin a couple thousands smaller so it would not bind up when I used them. If you hold the brass down on the table and assure there are no brass chips under it your brass will be trimmed square. Just check the length every so often to make sure the hardened pin is not wearing down and shortening your brass. I have worn out a couple 223 and 308 length studs so far.

 

[454PB]

Mounting the Wilson trimmer is possible by attaching it to a piece of 3/16" strap utilizing the holes that attach the cutter end and the setting end. Remove those two screws (they are 10-32), drill a slightly larger (#10 is .186" in diameter) to match the base, then reassemble with some 3/16" longer screws passing through the strap. You can then use a C clamp to attach the trimmer to your bench, or even bolt it if it won't be removed again.

I've used many different trimmers over the last 40+ years, and the Wilson is the most accurate.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Love my Lyman power trimmer. It's easy to adjust accurately, no shellholders, but not sure it would hold 50 cal. Fast and accurate

For years, I've also used the Lyman power trimmer and I'm happy with it. I use it to trim small batches of 300 Win. Mag., 300 Weatherby Mag., 338/06, .358 Win., 7.62X39, 7MM Rem. Mag. and a couple of others. The case holder is universal. It works well. I would suggest a carbide cutter.

For my high volume trimming, I use a Giraud Trimmer for .223 Rem., .260 Rem., 270 Win., 308 Win. and 30/06.

 

[Milt1]

I have a Lyman Universal and love it. Don't know if Lyman has a 50 cal pilot but probably so? Takes a learning curve but once you get it figured out, it is right on the money every time. I use it for .38 Special, .357 Mag and .44 Special.

 

[Dudedog]

Love my WFT for .223.
Much faster than my Hornaday lathe type trimmer.
Money well spent IMO for trimmng .223.

I think it is important to consider the amount of brass you have to trim and the time you have to do it.
Sadly usually faster = more $