VERY Tight Slide-to-Frame Fit - Is This a Problem?

Status
Not open for further replies.

November

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2002
Messages
111
I just got a 45acp caliber conversion kit for my Witness 10mm and the fit is VERY tight. I put some oil on the rails and worked the slide about twenty times and it loosened up just a little, but still real tight. Is this a real problem or will it get better through actual usage? I don't want to damage my frame. I'm talking tight like I have to use a little force to get the slide on the frame. Then, once it's on and I rack the slide with no mag inserted, it sometimes sticks in the rearward position. A little nudge will put it into battery though. I did get the large frame conversion kit, so I know that's not the problem. I'm hoping it just needs to mate with the frame through usage. Any ideas?
 
It will loosen up in usage but if that doesn't happen after a few hundred rounds ( if it malfunctions because of it ) put a bit of lapping compound on the rails and work the slide back and forth until it moves freely , then remove all lapping compound.
 
It's supposed to be a bit loose

FWIW

I read somewhere. maybe an old thread on TFL, that John Moses Browning himself had the last word on tight fitting slides on his 1911.

He said the original design was for a slightly looser fit than some people might think was right, because in the real world a tight fit can mean a jam when you need it the least. Of course he was talking about in combat or street use.

At the range I know a tighter silde and bushing fit helps accuracy, so I guess it depend on your use for which is correct.

The lapping compound should take off the high spots and give you a smoother action. I have also used polishing compound on a small dremel buffin wheel on some high spots too.

Good luck.

Don P.
 
Tightness of slide to frame fit really is NOT an accuracy issue. People think it is and it is when it comes to multiple shots in a ransom rest that holds the frame where the gun is not resighted for each shot, but otherwise not a big deal.

Accuracy in 1911s comes from proper fitting barrel to bushing and bushing to slide as well as proper barrel lockup to the slide. There can be wiggle between the frame and slide and that not be an issue because so long as the sights on the slide are aligned with the properly locked up and properly fit barrel, the slug is going to go where the barrel is aimed at that time. The slug is gone from the barrel before the slide starts moving rearward and so the issue of wiggle or looseness doesn't come into play for accuracy.

So what DonP said should have some real merit. The miniscule amount of accuracy that might be lost should have no real bearing on combat or defensive shooting. If you are working on a bullseye gun, then that may be another matter where fractions of an in at 50 yards start to count.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking maybe I'll just go after the rails on the 45acp slide with some polishing compound and a dremel because I don't want to adversely affect the frame or the 10mm accuracy. We'll see how it goes. Thanks again.
 
Double Naught Spy,
I think we were composing our replies at the same time! I guess I'm just leery about hurting the frame in any way. I consider it the "irreplaceable" part, i.e. the last thing I want to damage or alter. I might be a little paranoid/over-reacting because it's a new pistol. Thanks again for the response.
 
Double Naught Spy,

Indeed that does make a lot of sense. Honestly, I read so much much stuff about 1911s (and how "important" slide and frame fit are) that I allways figured it to be true, despite what common sense would dictate.

Thanks for clearing this up,

ehenz
 
Tight vs Reliable is a false dichotomy.

Tight guns can be very reliable and loose guns can be unreliable.

Personally, I think that anytime you have a gun that shoots more than one caliber, you are going to have compromises.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top