Weak/flimsy scope mounts can cause a scope to fail...

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It has always made me wonder why some people constantly have cheap scopes(or brands of scopes) fail, and the replacements for the failed scope will also fail, while some use them for decades on high powered rifles with utmost reliability. I have seen the same things happen with local hunters as I have read on various BBSs

Something dawned on me while typing out a response to another thread talking about scope creep on a 22LR.

From my mechanical experience. When you apply quick acceleration/deceleration to an object, if there is anything mounted to that object that can shift and bounce around, It will suffer far more damage than if it is solidly bolted down.

When you fire a 22 with a straight dovetail with loose mounts, the gun moves under the scope and the scope walks off the mounting rail.

When you fire a center fire gun with a weaver rail that has a recoil lugs on the rings. The gun starts moving through an acceleration curve as the bullet leaves the barrel. If the scope mount has any movement at all under those high Gs. The rifle will start moving before the scope. When lug on the ring bottoms out, then the scope is jolted up to the velocity of the rifle. The impact acceleration on the scope will be many many times the G force induced into the rifle from the recoil acceleration. It won’t be a high speed acceleration, it will be more like a shockwave going through the scope.

You may think the ring is tight. It never goes anywhere because the lug stops it from moving. But every time you fire, the scope is bounced back and forth. Every time you fire, it’s like hitting it with a hammer.

Kind of like seat belt in a car. If the car comes to a quick stop, and you keep moving until you hit the windshield, you will be hurt bad. If you are strapped to the vehicle and slow down the same speed as the vehicle, then you will survive.

The reason I mention this, is I have seen polishing effects from slight movement on weaver/picatinny scope mounts. The scope appears tight, but when you remove it after use, the contact points are shiny like the mount has be shifting back and forth a fractional amount every shot. Not enough to loosen up, but enough to see the effects. And that is with factory specified torque.

That leads me to the idea that a lot of the scope failures people see is not caused by the scope, but caused by the mount. If the scope is heavy enough that the mounting ring does not have enough torque enough to restrain it. It may break where a smaller scope will be fine with the same installation.

Just because you think it’s solidly mounted, doesn’t mean that it isn’t moving.

The term I can think of that can describe it is ….. “scope slap”

That may explain why some people have no problem with a cheap scope on a magnum rifle, while other people have one after another of the same type scope fall apart with five or six shots.

When they buy a cheap scope, they will use cheap rings that is often purchased with the scope. When they spend a big chunk of money on an expensive scope, normally they will buy equal quality rings to mount it.
Some people mount a cheap scope with expensive rings. Either because they already have the rings, so why not use them, or the gun they have, requires custom rings that is needed to fit a scope to that rifle.

So, the one that uses good rings/mounts with a cheap scope, has no problem. The person that used the cheap mounts/rings with a cheap scope has it fall apart in 6 shots.

Basically, you may be able to cause a scope to break by not having the mounting bolts tight enough. Or having a weak flimsy mounting ring that will flex under the recoil jolt

Grind the recoil lugs off a set of rings and mounted them on a rifle with the scope in question. If the scope moves after several shots, then you don’t have the bolts tight enough. If you can’t tighten them enough to keep it from moving, then the rings are not strong enough to mount the scope you have. The bigger scope, the higher torque you will have to have.

If you don’t have it tight enough and rely on the recoil lug to stop it, you may be pounding the scope to death.

That would explain a lot of what i see on the web......

What do you people think?
 
I think you are overthinking the probem.

Cheap scopes fail because they are cheap. Weaver rings and bases are among the best at holding even heavy scopes in hard recoiling rifles, although not the best looking.
 
Cheap scopes fail because they are cheap. Weaver rings and bases are among the best at holding even heavy scopes in hard recoiling rifles, although not the best looking.

+1
i install a few dozen scopes every year and prefer Weaver rings and bases. Always check the alignment of the rings with alignment bars and hone if needed. i've seen expensive scopes ruined by cheap misaligned rings.
 
Leapers & BKL

End all your worries about 3/8 (mostly) rimfire creep by using the one piece BKL and less expensive Leapers mounts.

I installed them in 2008 and haven't adjusted yet..... maybe 10,000 rounds of 22.
 
I've seen many more scope problems as a result of improper installation rather than the cost of the mounts. Inexpensive mounts and bases work just as well as more expensive ones,it just takes a little more effort (and a little more maintenance).
 
I dont think he is saying Weaver mounts are not good. I think he means the cheap Weaver style rings and I think he is on to something.
 
One thing I find out that I've thought about in the past, and this thread really made me think about. I've mentioned 98% of the guys I hunt with use cheap scopes under $150. I have to throw the $150 figure out there because of a couple of them use high powered Simmons scopes that cost right over $100. However, the majority of them are under $70 and are stuff like Bushnell Banners, Simmons 8 Points and Blazers, Tasco Bucksights, and a few World Classes. Very very rarely do any of them have their scope fail. It's not at all like you'd think if you read on these sites. You'd think they would all fail after 10 shots, while many of these guys have been using these things for years and years without issues.

One thing I noticed this past hunting season though is that the majority of them are using pretty decent scope mounts. Now, quite a few of them are using older steel Weaver rings, or Leupold or Redfield steel rings.

They aren't using cheapo $10 aluminum Weavers from Walmart. I'm wondering if these decent steel rings are making a difference in how long the scope lasts. It just seems odd that so few of them have problems with their cheap scopes.
 
One thing I noticed this past hunting season though is that the majority of them are using pretty decent scope mounts. Now, quite a few of them are using older steel Weaver rings, or Leupold or Redfield steel rings.

They aren't using cheapo $10 aluminum Weavers from Walmart. I'm wondering if these decent steel rings are making a difference in how long the scope lasts. It just seems odd that so few of them have problems with their cheap scopes.
That is the same thing I have noticed around here, which has lead me to think about it a little more. Some people have rings that cost more than the scope, and I have never seen them complain about their scope coming apart. And that is with them mounted on 7mm mags and the like.

A ring/mount that won’t hold the scope firmly will just amplify the recoil that the scope feels..

.........edit..........
The other thing I have noticed is I have seen people complaining about scopes failing on 10/22s while I haven’t really seen anyone complaining about the same thing as much on marlins or other brands.

People like putting a weaver, or picatinny rail on the 10/22. If the scope wants to walk like it does on a marlin, then it will be hitting the recoil lug every shot, instead of walking. And that constant impact is what is causing the scopes to fail on 10/22 more often than marlins or other brands.

Basically, the recoil lug on a waver/picatinny rail allows the shooter to be blissfully ignorant of the fact their rings are not holding their scope secure. So they continue shooting until their scope is rattled to pieces.
 
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Been using Weaver rings for 50 years. Never had a scope fail no matter what the brand of rings......chris3
 
Ironically enough, I'm testing out a set of the $10 walmart Weaver quad-locks, and I like 'em a lot! They are holding zero better than my last set of Leupold turn-ins, at least. I've found that even the tiniest amount of movement between the rings and base affects accuracy enough to be noticable-and loose bases are even more noticable.

Also, I suspect you're drastically overstating the effect of the shock of the recoil lug contacting the mount when the rings are loose. The 1/16" or so of movement (at most) simply doesn't provide a long enough delay to build up that kind of force.
 
Also, I suspect you're drastically overstating the effect of the shock of the recoil lug contacting the mount when the rings are loose. The 1/16" or so of movement (at most) simply doesn't provide a long enough delay to build up that kind of force.
Some off hand basic physics calculations.

180 grain bullet at 2700FPS out of 6 pound gun.
(0.0257lb X 2700fps)/6lb=11.6FPS

The rifle will be heading 11.6FPS in the reverse direction when the bullet clears the muzzle.

How far will the rifle have moved when the bullet clears the muzzle.
(0.0257lb X 2Feet)/6lb=0.00857Feet or 0.103 inch.

How far does the rifle travel to accelerate to 11.6FPS….. 0.103 inches.

What is the average acceleration on the gun to accelerate to 11.6fps in a distance of 0.103 inches?
Vf^2=2ad
11.6^2
134.58=2ad
67.28=a(0.00875feet)
Acceleration =7838m/s^2
That is roughly 245G or 245 times earth’s gravity.
The tasco I have weighs close to 1 pound.
The scope mounts have to be strong enough to hold a front to back force of over 240 pounds to stop it from moving.

Keep in mind that most of the bullets acceleration is in the first half, if not the first quarter of the bullets travel down the barrel.

So, the first 25, to 50 thousandths travel, the gun will accelerate to the majority of it’s final speed. I don’t know what percentage unless I look at the acceleration chart (in reference to distance traveled down the barrel for that particular cartridge).

The actual acceleration that first 50 thousandths of travel may be in the order of 400+ G.

If you have 50thousands front to back play in the scope mount when you fire a round. When the lug bottoms out, the scope is going to impact the rifle at close to 11fps. That is like dropping the scope onto a solid metal surface from a distance of 2 feet. The impact acceleration will be limited by the ductility of the metal. Probably on the order of several thousand G or more.

The impact will break something sooner or later when that happens.

..........edit...........

I have looked at a few barrel travel/velocity curves and the majority of the acceleration is in the first 10 inches of travel. With a 180 grain bullet in a 6 lb gun, you need less than 50 thousandths slop for the scope to take the majority of the brunt of the impact.

For what it’s worth, a 180 grain 300ultra mag in a 6 pound gun with 0.1 inch slop in the scope rings would subject the scope to the force equivalent to dropping the scope from about 3 feet onto a solid unmovable metal surface.

I guess using a weaver ring with it’s lug thickness of less than 0.180 in a picatinny rail that has slot size of 0.208 is not a bright idea after all. That gives you close to 30 thousands slop or more. If the rings are not tight, the scope won’t last long.
 
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I'm sure cheap rings and mounts can work if they're set up correctly. However, I also think that they are a lot less idiot proof than more expensive ones, and that you can get away with a lot more abuse on higher-quality rings and mounts.

My dad bought a Remington 700 VSSF 22-250, and....the rock bottom cheapest mounts, rings, and scope he could find, in this case a Simmons. His gun, his problem. One afternoon we took it out, and I was putting 55 grainers in the dirt at about 40 yards. Something was.....wrong. We took it home and tinkered with it, and found that the tube had bent. No problem. I made a non-confrontational remark about quality gear, and my dad went out and bought......the exact same scope.
 
A $100 scope, one has to think how many people have a finger in the profit;
the Chinese factory, the shippers to USA, the Distributors, the Reseller and then the advertising.

A $100 scope probably was bought for $15 from the factory.
 
Now, quite a few of them are using older steel Weaver rings, or Leupold or Redfield steel rings.

The old style steel rings that fit into a dovetail, or especially the windage adjustable models are actually among the worst mounts. If they are mounted properly they work, but no better than quality aluminum mounts such as Weaver, or Weaver style. The problem is that mounting them CORRECTLY is time consuming, tedious, and easy to screw up. Most guys don't really take the time, nor have the tools to do it right and often end up with problems with their guns shooting straight.

You will not see any serious competition shooters using this system. Most use a more heavy duty Weaver style that fits into a cross slot on a steel rail. The aluminum Weavers, incuding the cheap 4X4 models are plenty strong and accurate enough for any hunters needs. They are not very attractive, but work as good as anything, and better than most. My personal favorites are either the Talley Lightweights, or the DNZ. Neither are especially expensive, weigh 1/3 to 1/4 what steel mounts weigh, and especially with the DNZ, rival even the most expensive steel mounts for strength.

Weaver, or any style of mounts work just fine if mounted properly. If not you may have trouble shooting well, but I doubt it will contribute to a scope wearing out early.
 
I agree with you. Once, just for giggles, I put a 22 scope and mounts on a 44 mag with heavy loads. I touched her off and on the second shot, the rings snapped, and the scope reticle broke, so yes, the scope has to be matched to the caliber for sure.
 
Im shooting a sub $50 scope on a .308 win ising weaver bases and millit mangle lock rings. I think you're right op.... if there is ene the tiniest fraction of an inch the scope can move...it will under recoil and it will be passed as a hammer blow to the scope.

Now, my .308 only has 100 rounds through it so far...but from listening to everyone on this forum... my scope should have died twice already.
 
Inexpensive doesn't have to mean cheap quality.

I have a Ruger 270 with a Weaver 6x scope mounted with Ruger rings. This gun regularly shoots 1/2" groups at 100 yards. I have a more expensive varible scope sitting on the shelf but with accuracy like that why change?

Oh, I paid a grand total of $75.00 for the scope.
 
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