Well I finally bought a revolver

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GunGeek

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Well I decided I wanted a revolver a while ago and today I ran into one I couldn't turn down. Ruger SP101 in 357mag like new for $275. The shop owner, who I have known for years, says it had never been fired. I know autos much better but it looks really clean and unused.

So being new to the revolver club any hints or things I should know? It's sort of funny, when I buy autos I've become really good at fluff and buffs, and there is really nothing to do to a revolver I know of to improve it, so there is nothing for me to do but stare at it till I can get it to the range.

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A bit of a warning. Fireing .357 loads in a short barrel will produce a big muzzel flash.

-Bill
 
there is really nothing to do to a revolver I know of to improve it, so there is nothing for me to do but stare at it till I can get it to the range.

Au contraire, there are deux things you can do:

1) Make sure it's unloaded, and point it at something safe.

2) Pull the trigger. Smooth and steady, with a nice smooth release.

Repeat. A thousand times (though not all in one night!).
 
As for dry firing 1000 times I'm already 1/10th of the way there, and that is in one night. I had to stop because my finger is raw and I feel a blister comming.
 
I had to stop because my finger is raw and I feel a blister comming.
Keeping certain it is empty...
Switch hands, get blisters on two fingers. :)
Hold it upside down, get blisters on little fingers. :cool:
Hold it over shoulder aiming with mirror at target behind you, get blisters on thumbs :D
Have holster? Practice smooth draw.
Nice little un ya got there GGeek. You'll love it.
 
A bit of a warning. Fireing .357 loads in a short barrel will produce a big muzzel flash.
Not all loads will produce this flash. There are loads with retardants blended in the powder that significantly reduces the flash. These loads were developed exclusively for the shorter barreled revolvers.
 
Gee, if you got a blister from dry firing 100 times there is something you definetly need.

A trigger job.

Enjoy,
Bob
 
Congratulations on your find! I hope you like your SP101's as much as I like my 3 versions...a snub .22, snub .357 and a 3 inch .357. I polish mine up with Flitz on an old washcloth and they shine like jewelry. Have fun and be safe!
 
The only warning I will give about the Ruger SP-101 is to watch the little screw under the cylinder release. The one on my GP-100 started to back out. Supposedly, they are staked in place, mine wasn't, so I just make sure it's nice and tight when I go to the range. I suppose I could put a tiny drop of blue Locktite on it, or pilfer a little of my wife's nail polish.
 
Gee, if you got a blister from dry firing 100 times there is something you definetly need.

A trigger job.

It needs some more break in but 100 times was just a number I quessed, in reality it was probably 4 or 5 times that, I probably dryfired it for overan hours last night.

Well I'm off to the range today!
 
Congratulations. Make sure you pick up some .38spl to run through it along with .357. For practice you'll find the .38's to be more pleasant to shoot from a snubbie.
 
Oh I bought it with all intentions of running mainly 38spl though it, but after firing it today I didn't even think 357 was that bad.

The range master walked behind me and said my shooting was impressive and asked what I which of the guns on my table I was shooting it with, his jaw dropped when I showed him the snubbie.
 
The SP101 is a really nice gun. I dry fired mine about 500 hundred times then changed the trigger and hammer springs with Wolf springs (www.gunsprings.com) then I added a pair of Hogue grips (www.hoguegrips.com) and headed for the range. After 500 rounds of .357 and .38's it realy smoothed up. The factory guns are nice but a little bit of work will turn them into exellent guns.
 
Now I'm getting the urge to get one---again:rolleyes: ----last time I got the .357 itch---I came home with a Smith 2.5in 686P-----now all this SP talk and the pics have me drooling for one too.

No---the Smith isn't going anywhere.

I just want a SP too------REAL BAD!!!
 
Mine didnt really smooth out till closer to 5000 trigger pulls. About 1000 of them live and the rest dry.
 
One thing you will notice about the SP after a while is that there are a lot of sharp little edges. Not enough to cause injury mind you - just annoying. The fix is simple though. Some emory cloth & a popsicle stick. Or if you're careful - a rotery tool.

The annoying spots for me were the bottom of the trigger, some corners on the trigger guard, the bottom of the frame just above the trigger and the lower front portion of the frame. You'll notice the cylinder ends area bit sharp too (not a big deal since it's only noticable when open).

As far as the trigger thing goes, dry firing a lot will smooth it right out. It will still be a bit heavy - but will become smooth & predictable. Some have installed reduced power hammer & trigger return springs to lighten the pull. I really haven't found the need to do that with mine - especially since it's primarily intended as a defensive weapon. There is the chance of mis-fires if the hammer spring is too light.

There is also a bit of a quirk with the trigger return. If you don't allow it to fully re-set - it will feel like it's locked up. Just fully releasing the trigger fixes the situation - but it can be unsetteling if you are not aware of it (especially when shooting rapid fire). Another reason I especially haven't messed with reduced power trigger return springs.

I found the factory grips worked fine for any .38 shooting & limited .357. But mine had a nasty habit of smacking my middle finger with the back of the trigger guard when shooting .357's. I got some Hogue rubber grips (under $20) - and their added fill behind the trigger guard solved that problem. The Hogue grips are also just slightly longer - so I was able to get my pinky finger in the grip. Really helped with comfort & control with .357's. If you find you like the Hogue grip, they also make it in hard nylon (to reduce snagging on clothing when carrying concealed - also <$20) - and a variety of very nice looking woods. You can view a number of different photos on their website.

Finally, many have commented that the SP tends to shoot low. Not enough to matter much at under 7 yard typical defensive shooting distances - but noticable as you go further out. I've found that this tends to happen more with lighter weight bullets in my gun.

You should find the SP a handy & versitle little revolver. I've had mine over 10 years and it's still rock solid and shows very little wear (with mostly .357 shooting).
 
I am glad to hear the above information. I might treat my self to one of the Target grey finished models for my recent birthday.
 
Finally, many have commented that the SP tends to shoot low. Not enough to matter much at under 7 yard typical defensive shooting distances - but noticable as you go further out. I've found that this tends to happen more with lighter weight bullets in my gun.
All fix sighted handguns are regulated for one bullet weight. The .38sp/.357mag revolvers are usually regulated for the 158 grain bullet which is the caliber's standard weight. A lighter bullet would have a lower POI.
 
I'll second the idea to check for sharp areas. My SP's trigger was so sharp on the sides that I came back from the first range session bleeding. Stoned them off nice and smooth, and it's great. The trigger does indeed smooth out very well, mine's glass smooth (but still heavy) after the thousands of round through it.

For a real thrill shoot some of the Cor-Bon 180-gr loads through it, or even handload some heavies. It bucks and snorts pretty well with such loads, tons of fun. The sights are definitedly regulated for 158-grainers, at least mine shoots to point of aim with them.

Congratulations of a fine gun!
 
I have a SP101. Aside from the no longer produced Colts, it is the only small-frame revolver I have tried that is controllable with heavy loads. It is not bad to shoot with 125-grain full power magnums, although the blast -- at least with the Remington I have been using -- is tremendous. With lighter 110-grain magnums and any .38 Special load, it is downright gentle (if that is the right word). Except for the sharp edges of the trigger and trigger guard which pinch and blister my finger; this is the one modification I would make to it, along with perhaps a bit of action smoothing. The cushioned rubber grips are a major factor in this controllability. If you like to reload from speedloaders, some material will have to be cut away from the top of the grip panel to accommodate them. I use Bianchi Speed Strips myself.
 
I used to have a 2' .357 SP101, but it was stolen :fire: I had it modified to DAO, and had the hammer slightly bobbed.

Two problems I had when shooting it were that after about 100 rounds, the cylinder started binding; the tight cylinder gap was filling with fouling. This wasn't a major problem, just annoying to have to stop and clean the cylinder face off. The other problem was that after extended shooting, the first joint of my trigger finger got sore. I assume this was from trigger backlash.

Has anyone else had similar problems? Despite these, I really liked it. It was my "woods gun".
 
Two problems I had when shooting it were that after about 100 rounds, the cylinder started binding; the tight cylinder gap was filling with fouling. This wasn't a major problem, just annoying to have to stop and clean the cylinder face off. The other problem was that after extended shooting, the first joint of my trigger finger got sore. I assume this was from trigger backlash.

I have had the experience of having the cylinder binding around 150-200 rounds. Nothing that would make the gun not function but, just enough to make it more difficult to operate. I too consider it more of an annoyance than anything. And in theory at least the smaller gap would correspond with higher velocity (minor) so it may not even be an entirely bad thing.

With the trigger problem i would recomend trying to smooth the edges a little, that little bugger has some SHARP corners.
 
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