Went long with the 22 today.

jmr40

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Joined
May 26, 2007
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I've shot as far as 250 yards in the past with a couple of my 22's, but it's been a while. And I've made some changes to optics which meant having to get things dialed in again. I tried a different scope a couple of weeks ago which I thought would be better but ran out of adjustment before 200 yards.

I got on paper at 200 today and fired this group just before leaving. I'm still about 2 clicks high and right. I knew I was hitting right so I held on the left point of the diamond to get it centered. But that is for the next trip.

1.5" @ 200 yards. I can live with that. I put blue painters tape behind the holes to make them easier to see. I re-purposed a target left at the range and taped over existing bullet holes; those aren't mine.

Tikka T1x rifle
36 gr CCI Mini-Mags
4.5-14X42 Burris FF-II

IMG_1929.JPG
 
I have one of these

Ruger® 10/22® Sporter Autoloading Rifle Model 31166

That comes close to matching the Tikka. Mine is slightly different than the one in the link. It is an older version without the threaded barrel, and I have it in a Hogue stock.

I found a great deal on some Burris FF-II's that I bought and have been moving some scopes around. I'm taking the 10-22 out next to dial it in at longer range with a 3-9X40 Burris.

Some things I've done that may help if anyone else is interested in shooting 22's past 50 yards. I got bored shooting at 50 yards and under. This is a new challenge for me. When I started shooting at longer ranges I had to burn a lot of ammo using the trial-and-error method to figure this out. This may save you some time and ammo.

The 36 gr CCI's work better for me past 50 yards. I can get SLIGHTLY better groups at 50 yards with match ammo. But the difference at 100 yards is not worth the more arched trajectory. I haven't tried match ammo at 200 yet. Even the 36 gr bullets are dropping an estimated 4 feet and it takes a lot of dial twisting. With the equipment I have I don't think I could get on target that far with slower match bullets.

And for unknown reasons none of my rifles shoot the 40 gr CCI ammo as accurately. It's close, and there isn't much difference in trajectory. It would only mean a few more clicks on the scope, but the accuracy just isn't as good in MY rifles. Your rifle may be different.

I do have a 15 MOA rail ordered for the 10-22. Once it comes in, and I mount a different scope on it I may give match ammo a look at longer range. But even if the ammo is more accurate, I'm not sure I can do any better than that.

100 yards is pretty easy. I zero at 50. When I go to 100 yards every scope I've used with multiple aiming points has one hash mark that gets me on target at 100. Even many plain duplex scopes are on at 100 if I use the point where the reticle changes from thick to thin as my aiming point.

I've used a CDS type scope with dials on it in the past. That system works, but I've done just as well with a traditional scope by just removing the caps and twisting the dials. Once zeroed most scopes will allow you to mark where it is zeroed so it is easy to return. With a 50 yard zero 16-18 clicks have gotten me dead on at 100 with multiple rifles and scopes with the 36 gr ammo.

When I go to 200 yards I have to twist the dial one complete revolution plus 15-30 more clicks. That does vary depending on the scope, the mounts, and rifle. But if someone wants to try 200 yards without specialized gear I'd start there and that should get you on paper. It's a good idea to use a big target at first.

One last thing. Don't try this on a windy day. I typically get to the range at sun-up when the wind is calm. By 10 AM there is often enough of a breeze to move bullets way off target.
 
Interesting. Conventional wisdom is that match ammo is better because it doesn't go from supersonic to subsonic. Up until now I haven't been using 22LR to go much beyond 50 yards since I have a good magnum. But with long distance matches becoming popular I might give it a shot. Have you changed barrels on your rifles? I am interested in anything you have done to that Tikka. I am lucky to shoot that well at 100 yards with my 540 XR. Looks like more ammo testing is in my future.
 
I am interested in anything you have done to that Tikka.

It is just as it came out of the box other than adding a scope.

I am lucky to shoot that well at 100 yards

To be fair, 1.5" @ 200 yards is better than average, but not unusual either. Based on past experience right at 2" at 200 yards is typical for me and that rifle. On a good day 1.5", but rarely more than 3". I fired several 2"-3" groups earlier, but I was primarily just trying to get the scope dialed in. I made some adjustments and decided to concentrate on getting a good group right before I had to leave. Next time out I'll need to come down about 2-3 clicks.

This is at 250 yards with the same rifle, different scope. I ran out of adjustment and am having to hold several inches high and to the left to account for some wind that day. I hit 6 out of 8 shots. The bigger impact was from a 223 fired earlier.

IMG_1575.JPG



Conventional wisdom is that match ammo is better because it doesn't go from supersonic to subsonic.

That is my understanding as well, but I can't argue with the results I'm getting. Another poster here Varminterror, shoots 22's a lot at ranges beyond 300 yards and has posted about it. I'm pretty sure he uses slower match ammo. To be fair, he knows a lot more about this sort of thing than I do. And he is using better gear than I have.

The primary reason I've stayed with this ammo is because I don't have enough adjustment in my scopes to get to 200+ yards with slower ammo.
 
The range where I shoot doesn't allow rimfire shooting beyond 100yds. They think we're to stoopid to hit the berm. So I haven't shot 22LR beyond 100yds in ages. :oops:

Great results with the Tikka, jmr40. Share your results when you've got her dialed in. I sure would like to be able to shoot that well with my CZs.
 
I have one of these

Ruger® 10/22® Sporter Autoloading Rifle Model 31166

That comes close to matching the Tikka. Mine is slightly different than the one in the link. It is an older version without the threaded barrel, and I have it in a Hogue stock.

I found a great deal on some Burris FF-II's that I bought and have been moving some scopes around. I'm taking the 10-22 out next to dial it in at longer range with a 3-9X40 Burris.

Some things I've done that may help if anyone else is interested in shooting 22's past 50 yards. I got bored shooting at 50 yards and under. This is a new challenge for me. When I started shooting at longer ranges I had to burn a lot of ammo using the trial-and-error method to figure this out. This may save you some time and ammo.

The 36 gr CCI's work better for me past 50 yards. I can get SLIGHTLY better groups at 50 yards with match ammo. But the difference at 100 yards is not worth the more arched trajectory. I haven't tried match ammo at 200 yet. Even the 36 gr bullets are dropping an estimated 4 feet and it takes a lot of dial twisting. With the equipment I have I don't think I could get on target that far with slower match bullets.

And for unknown reasons none of my rifles shoot the 40 gr CCI ammo as accurately. It's close, and there isn't much difference in trajectory. It would only mean a few more clicks on the scope, but the accuracy just isn't as good in MY rifles. Your rifle may be different.

I do have a 15 MOA rail ordered for the 10-22. Once it comes in, and I mount a different scope on it I may give match ammo a look at longer range. But even if the ammo is more accurate, I'm not sure I can do any better than that.

100 yards is pretty easy. I zero at 50. When I go to 100 yards every scope I've used with multiple aiming points has one hash mark that gets me on target at 100. Even many plain duplex scopes are on at 100 if I use the point where the reticle changes from thick to thin as my aiming point.

I've used a CDS type scope with dials on it in the past. That system works, but I've done just as well with a traditional scope by just removing the caps and twisting the dials. Once zeroed most scopes will allow you to mark where it is zeroed so it is easy to return. With a 50 yard zero 16-18 clicks have gotten me dead on at 100 with multiple rifles and scopes with the 36 gr ammo.

When I go to 200 yards I have to twist the dial one complete revolution plus 15-30 more clicks. That does vary depending on the scope, the mounts, and rifle. But if someone wants to try 200 yards without specialized gear I'd start there and that should get you on paper. It's a good idea to use a big target at first.

One last thing. Don't try this on a windy day. I typically get to the range at sun-up when the wind is calm. By 10 AM there is often enough of a breeze to move bullets way off target.

I really like my 31166. I haven't shot it past 50 yds. Maybe a 100 yds soon.

20220616_113711.jpg 20220730_082250.jpg
 
Very cool. I've collected several types of ammo to test in my Bergara B14R. Hoped to go out today, but it's windy and rainy; not good conditions for testing. Looking forward to "pushing it out there."
 
20230407_150123.jpg 20230407_150123.jpg i made this up years ago. 100 to 300 yd. It worked out to basically 7 clicks(1/4 min) per 10 yd. Would hit a 8" gong about 3 out of 10 @ 300 yd. Dosent look like much, but that was a lot of ammo. They were about 12$ for 525rd @ the time. I didnt actually test @280 yd, that was kinda pencil whipped in there.
 
That is good shooting. I shoot 200 yards all the time with my 10/22 or my 513T and 52C using iron sides. Try using Aguila super maximum hypervelocity rounds. It is a light bullet at 30 grains but it travels at 1700 fps. Only con if you can consider it a con is that if a fly farts the breeze moves it substantially, good way practice reading the wind. My rifles perform better with 40gr Aguila rounds than the CCI rounds. But looking at that group you definitely don't need my help. Great shooting!
 
Another poster here Varminterror, shoots 22's a lot at ranges beyond 300 yards and has posted about it. I'm pretty sure he uses slower match ammo. To be fair, he knows a lot more about this sort of thing than I do. And he is using better gear than I have.

I’d actually put your Tikka as a rung above the Savage Mark II I typically shoot at long range, and certainly above the 10/22 Chargers my son and I shoot the most at these distances. I’ve been pretty fortunate in winning optics from PRS prize tables, so we do have pretty nice scopes on top, but the rifles/pistols are definitely 3rd rung from the top, with CZ’s, Annie’s, Tikkas, Vudoo’s, and RimX’s standing pretty tall above them.

We do shoot a variety of ammo - usually just changing our target sizes to accommodate lesser ammo when we use it. Sub-sonic ammo typically is less susceptible to wind at distance than is super-Sonic ammo, so we do tend to use subsonic match ammo any time we’re shooting long and caring intently about the outcome. But we shoot buttloads of Rem Golden Bullet ammo, which is none of precise, clean shooting, or sub-sonic, but giving it big enough targets, still makes for an enjoyable day at the range. We usually shoot Eley Club or Black, or Tennex for matches, and I practice a lot with CCI SV’s, which are subsonic.

Sub-MOA with 22LR at 200 is no joke - most folks don’t put enough time, thought, energy, and money into their 22’s to ever see sub-MOA from their 22’s. Wind here has been awful this spring, and we’re not shooting groups at 200, but I’d bet against myself shooting 1.5” at 200 on any of the days we’ve been out with 22’s lately!
 
Just don't go over to RimfireCentral and post that, 'cause if it isn't done regularly, it was just a fluke and will never happen again o_O. Seriously though, even if it's never repeated it was dang fine that time! I envy you. :notworthy:

Spend a little time with any ballistics program and run several .22 LR loads and you'll really begin to appreciate the true nature of the "rainbow arc". I have a couple of Nikon rimfire scopes with their BDC reticles and using their Spoton webpage you can (theoretically) get out there a ways by using center, top and bottom lines of their distance circles. Coolest part is that it tells you what your zero is (should be) at any chosen distance (say 50 yds) for a given desired final zero (say 200 yds). In my limited experience it's good enough for most reasonable steel target work, but probably not for serious paper "scoring" type shooting.

We aren't allowed to shoot rimfire on our 200/300 yd range because we have target pits and, again if you study .22 LR balistics you'll find that with a 200 yd zero you'd be dropping those .22's into the back of the 300-yd pit on our range :what: As an RSO, I find myself having to explain this quite often to the folks who want, but aren't allowed, to shoot muzzle loaders, handguns and rimfires on the 200/300 yd range. Such is the design of our range.
 
I can fully understand the safety issues with the target pits.

I'm still waiting for a decent day to get out and shoot my Savage MkI BTVLSS and AR22 with a 16" CMMG heavy barrel out to 200 or more yards. The Savage shoots CCI Mini Mags the best out to 100 yards but I want to compare that to CCI Standard, SK Rifle Match, SK HV Rifle, Eley Target, and Norma Tac to see which does best in both rifles at farther distances. So far the AR22 does best with CCI Standard out to 100 yards.

I know neither rifle is top tier but I also am not competing either. But it sure is fun shooting 22LR at longer distances. I use to enjoy when I got to shoot the M16A2 with iron sights on the machine gun or sniper rifle ranges when I was in the Army. That gave me more confidence with using the elevation drum for longer distances.
 
I really like my 31166. I haven't shot it past 50 yds. Maybe a 100 yds soon.

That rifle:

Ruger® 10/22® Sporter Autoloading Rifle Model 31166

Should be a regular production rifle for Ruger. They made a small run a few years ago and I got one at that time. I liked it well enough that I wanted a 2nd one but couldn't find any more until recently. The new version has a threaded barrel. I recently ordered a 2nd one from Buds Gunshop. But I don't know how much longer they will be available.

They are a little heavier than the standard carbine, but not too heavy to use as a field gun. Mine is about 7 1/2 lbs scoped which is about the same as my center fire bolt rifles. And they come with the BX trigger. Mine is around 2 1/2 lbs.
 
I’d actually put your Tikka as a rung above the Savage Mark II I typically shoot at long range,

It is optics where I think you've got me beat. With what I have I'm near my limits of elevation at 200 yards, and with some scopes past them. I'd like to push things a little farther. I ordered a 15 MOA rail for the Ruger VTR and hopefully it will get me a little farther down range. The Ruger isn't as accurate as the Tikka, but is respectable. The Tikka does limit my choices in mounts.

I didn't post this to brag. Rather to encourage others to give it a try. Most guys never think about going past 50 yards with a 22. But with a decently accurate rifle and common hunting scopes it can be done for minimal expense. And 100 yards isn't nearly as hard as a lot imagine. Getting to 200 took some time and experimenting.

The local club where I shoot has target stands at 25, 50, 100, 200, and 300. Some club members have hung steel plates at 250, and 350. The only places for me to shoot longer distance with center fire rifles is a 2 hour drive one way. I've been to Talladega a couple of times to shoot as far as 600. But I find shooting my 22 at 200 to be just as challenging and a lot cheaper.

If I can do this, anyone else can.
 
I think it is a good idea to push yourself to shoot farther. It builds confidence in yourself and your equipment. The problem I have is finding a range that goes past 100 yards. All of the Dept of Conservation ranges only go to 100 and the closest private ranges that go to 600 yards are at least an hour away. An hour drive isn't much for a perfectly healthy person but that takes its toll on me with my disabilities.

When ever it is a pistol day at my local range, I always take some clay birds along and will also pick up empty 12 gauge hulls to use as targets. I have fun shooting clay birds and empty hulls out to 85 yards with my 22lr handguns. It is definitely more of a challenge to hit them at 85 yards with my Ruger MkII and G44 with iron sights than it is with my S&W 22A and Kel-Tec CP33 with red dots. Unfortunately the local conservation range only goes to 85 yards. The advantage is that it is only 3 miles from the house.
 
Shooting .22 LR at 150 plus will really show what wind does, as well as magnify the occasional, and not so occasional, bad rounds, the what the hecks you get with .22 LR, and the cheaper you buy the more of those you get.

Like @Varminterror posted, just use bigger targets with cheaper ammo. I can get to 150 right now, and can likely get it to 200 one of these days, but need a raised platform to get it to where the 150 yard target is. With my terrain and trees, distance is tough to come by. One of my things on the "to do" list is look for a 300 yard shot with minimal tree removal/trimming.

It's fun, just get out there and do it.
 
If I can do this, anyone else can.

I say this incredibly often, about a great many things - but with the slight modifier: “if I can do it, anyone can, because at the very least, I can coach them to be able.”

It's fun, just get out there and do it.

Jerry Della Femina had it wrong - shooting Long Range and Extreme Long Range with 22LR is about as much fun as can be had with your pants on!”

It is optics where I think you've got me beat. With what I have I'm near my limits of elevation at 200 yards, and with some scopes past them. I'd like to push things a little farther. I ordered a 15 MOA rail for the Ruger VTR and hopefully it will get me a little farther down range. The Ruger isn't as accurate as the Tikka, but is respectable. The Tikka does limit my choices in mounts.

Big adjustment in the optic helps a lot, but we can get a LONG ways with even conventional scopes if we use the right mount. I’m sure you’re well aware, but I talk to a lot of folks each year which aren’t - a 22LR needs a 20moa rail just to have HALF of its adjustment range left after a 100yrd zero! Standard velocity ammo (~1050) will usually have 17moa of gravitational drop at 100yrds, plus 2” of optic height to be compensated, totaling 19moa, so we need 19moa just to put our scope at optical center at 100yrds.

The cheapest means of doing so is to use Burris Signature Zee rings with Posi-Lign inserts.

It’s true, a common optic with 50MOA internal adjustment, mounted on a flat base and rings, will run out of adjustment somewhere around 125 yards. Level scope = 1/2 of adjustment available, meaning 25moa available, then subtract 2” optic height at 100 = 2moa, and 17moa absolute drop, we have 19moa compensated in our zero, so we only have 6moa left available to dial past 100yrd zero. But for about $60, we can get a set of Burris Signature Zee rings plus an extra set of 20moa shims, put in a total of 40moa of angle in the rings, giving us access to ~46 out of the total 50MOA capacity of the scope, reaching somewhere around 315-330yrds with SV ammo.

Naturally, optics with more internal elevation capacity will reach farther, one of my 22’s is set up to shoot a hair past 500yrds by using a scope with 103moa internal capacity and 60moa of combined base and ring angle.

Honestly, I wish all 22’s came from factory with 40moa of scope base angle. This would compensate for a 100yrd zero PLUS give us access to ~20moa of elevation beyond 100yrds, which fits under the top of almost all scopes on the market. 22’s should at LEAST come with 20moa bases, just to get us back near optical center, nearly equivalent to a centerfire rifle with a flat base.
 
Here, when he was 6, about to turn 7, my son was shooting 300yrds a rifle and scope which totaled under $400 (including the new stock, and knock off bipod) - a $50 scope, and rot-gut Winchester Wildcat ammo. 50MOA available in that Bushnell Trophy 3-9x40, with the old school, inexpensive elevation dials which require a coin for adjustment - he had Burris Signature Zee rings with 20moa shims front and back, totaling 40moa. Sure, the target is big, 12”x20”, but the wind was blowing to beat hell (check out his hair!), and the Win Wildcat ammo ain’t very impressive - and he was 6… The real bad news that day, he was holding at the left POST of his mil-dot reticle to make up for wind, and a +/-2mph wind bracket was wider than the target!

29B106DB-71B5-4E5E-A4F0-69C8CC41632A.jpeg

If we can do it, anyone can!
 
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