Wet Tumbling

Status
Not open for further replies.
Brass can be less slick after using a detergent or citric acid or both. My solution is to dry-tumble them in corncob media afterward. This also helps confirm even the primer pockets are dry.

I use dish detergent and lemishine. Automotive wash/wax products are an alternative. Experiment to see what you prefer.

I do deprime first and use pins. I found the most popular size pin and practically the only size available is just the right length to get jammed in 6.5mm case necks. Because of this, I want to try chips instead of pins, but since I overwhelmingly tumble straight-wall pistol brass, I haven't been motivated enough to do it yet.

The biggest problem I have in my experience with wet tumbling is peening of the case mouths. I'm working on solving this, but it takes time to confirm because the peening accumulates over time. My first potential solution is to reduce tumbling times. I bought dial timers and reduced my tumbling time to less than 1 hour. I may cut it to as little as 30 minutes. My second potential solution is to reduce the violence of the tumbling. I could slow the tumbler with a larger drum pulley. I've been experimenting with different water levels (brass should fall slower when the tub is totally full of water versus half-full). I also want to try adding more stainless media as a buffer.

The best advice I have to offer for anything related to brass batch processing is to go big. We spend enough time on the press whether single-stage or progressive. The last thing we want is to waste time cleaning or drying brass one case at a time, or 200 cases at a time, or even 500 cases at a time. The biggest drawback of the popular tumblers is they are too small. The FART, Thumlers, and STM all have less than 20 pound capacity. I think 35 to 50 pounds is a better size for non-professional hobbyists that might shoot more than 1000 rounds a month. The Frankford tumbler is one of the biggest of the popular tumblers and it can only hold "1000 .223 cases" without media. This is only the right size if you want to incorporate your whole cleaning brass routine into every range trip, or every other range trip, or at least once or twice a month. Personally, I would be happier if I only had to think about cleaning brass quarterly or semi-annually and I'd like to be able to clean a few thousand cases with media in one batch. The pros will use cement mixers to clean thousands of cases. Some of those cement mixers, cheap imports or Craigslist specials aren't more expensive than the popular tumbler models. They do take up more shop space than I have.

I rinse brass in hot water and I have no trouble with pin separation (other than the 6.5mm case issue I mentioned). I use a Frankford Standard Media Separator over a 5 gallon bucket. Its very simple and it works very well. I have one of those super neodymium magnets, but I only ever use it to pick up stray pins and that's very rare nowadays. I could just do without it.

I dry brass with a big towel. Having rinsed it in hot water, the hot brass dries pretty quickly. If I'm really in a hurry, I can use an air compressor, leaf blower, shop vacuum on blower mode or a heat gun. My tumbler limits me to about 500 cases at a time and for that volume, those methods work fine. If I was processing more brass (many thousands), I would pour it out single-layer on a mesh screen (hardware cloth) and leave it in the sun. Again, in my mind the key to efficiency is large scale, so kitchen appliances aren't going to help.
 
I would never wet tumble pistol brass. For me, its not worth the extra hassle. But for rifle brass its definitely worth the extra work. I am lubing even new rifle brass for processing so I don’t know about brass sticking, but I would think it would help rather than hurt.

I like Dawn and pins for the initial cleaning and plane (no pins) wash and wax for the final (after processing) cleaning. I’m cleaning brass from an AR after annealing it. Its filthy gross and the pins are an absolute necessity for me.

I have not tried just using wash and wax for the primary cleaning. I will have to give it a try next time. The Limi-Shine doesn’t seem to do anything for me, so I quit using it.

If I hadn’t found a used setup (cheep) I would have bought a FART. I feel like it’s the gold standard.
 
I use the pins. Pins, laundry soap (not much needed) and water (no polish yet). I have yet to experiment with lemon shine, but it seems widely recommended. Then use hot water to rinse, I fill the tumbler with hot water to force all the dirty water out. Then empty the cleaned and rinsed case into the separator (Lyman Cyclone tumbler and 'kit'). Recover all the pins I can. Shake the loose water from the cases.
To dry, I tumble cases in corn cob or such. And with the media, I add a bit (capfull?) of "Nu-shine" car polish. Run until dry (couple of hours). Separate the media as usual. Run the magnet through the media to find some more pins. Leave the lid open on the tumbler to allow the media to dry (evaporate).

The cases are clean (I deprime first) and bright and have a slight protective coating. And dry, ready to prime and load or whatever comes next.
 
I've just about stopped using pins. They are a pain and they would wind up everywhere. I reload in the garage and have found pins in my bedroom :)

I size/=deprime and tumble with wash n wax and lemmishine. I recently bought the Frankford Arsenal drier. Its just a food dehydrator. It works great.

I found if i wet tumble without depriming, moisture can stay trapped in the primer pocket even if the cases have been sitting for awhile.
 
Where do you find Lemi-Shine?

I use Citric Acid, in the canning section of your supermarket. (usually less expensive than Lemishine)

Car wash and Wax, about a 9mm case of Citric acid.
How much Lemishine/Citric acid depends on your water PH, Higher PH water requires more.


Wash and Wax I don't even measure, just a dollop out of the bottle.
 
I like Dawn and pins for the initial cleaning and plane (no pins) wash and wax for the final (after processing) cleaning. I’m cleaning brass from an AR after annealing it. Its filthy gross and the pins are an absolute necessity for me.

I have not tried just using wash and wax for the primary cleaning. I will have to give it a try next time. The Limi-Shine doesn’t seem to do anything for me, so I quit using it.
I do similar to your method for rifle brass. I use Dawn, no pins, for a quick initial cleaning (15 to 20 minutes) just to make sure there is no dirt that can scratch my dies. I lube and size, and for the final cleaning I used Wash-n-Wax with pins. I don't worry about peening since I will trim and chamfer afterwards. IMHO, it is a good idea to use Dawn for the initial cleaning, since it is more concentrated and takes less than the Wash-n-Wax.
 
I've been wet cleaning, rifle and pistol, for years and won't go back to corncob. Deprime, then an ounce or so of Dawn, 1/4 teaspoon of Leminshine and cold water. A dryer (Hornady, it was on sale) and I am ready to go.

I totally agree with really clean brass is easier to inspect.
 
You mentioned on a post a year or so ago that you shouldn’t wet tumble lanolin lubed cases, is there a lube you recommend to someone making the jump to wet tumbling?

Or use lanolin spray and wash the cases in Woolite.
Lanolin is hard to break down. It will leave a sticky gloppy residue when it doesn’t get spectated from the brass. I like OneShot.
 
If you want a "jewelry" like finish to your brass, wet tumbling is a way to achieve that. However, as I shoot and plink so much, generally just giving the brass a "bath" is sufficiently clean and bright enough. So, I don't tumble as much anymore except if the brasses are very weathered/tarnished.

For wet tumbling, I use a Thumlers high speed. The recipe is 1/4 TSP Lemi-Shine and 1 ounce of auto wash and wax (any brand - I've tried them all and have seen no appreciable difference) with about 5 pounds of pins with a 0.047" diameter as these will not stick side-by-side in flash holes.

Pics of typical results:

IMG-20150221-182103.jpg

IMG-20150611-111556.jpg

IMG-20151210-112830.jpg


IMG-20160401-141930.jpg

Bayou52
 
Last edited:
You mentioned on a post a year or so ago that you shouldn’t wet tumble lanolin lubed cases, is there a lube you recommend to someone making the jump to wet tumbling?
...Is one shot lanolin based?
One shot is not lanolin based and works pretty well on handgun cases...I don't reload for rifle.

Lanolin lube is popular because it is easy to make at home and more economical than the Dillon case lube which is the same thing.

The easiest way to clean off lanolin after sizing is to use Woolite in a wet wash.
If you don't have many cases to clean, you can wipe them off with alcohol.
For handgun rounds loaded with jacketed bullets, I just throw them into my vibratory cleaner with corncob for 20-30 minutes
 
One shot is not lanolin based and works pretty well on handgun cases...I don't reload for rifle.

Lanolin lube is popular because it is easy to make at home and more economical than the Dillon case lube which is the same thing.

The easiest way to clean off lanolin after sizing is to use Woolite in a wet wash.
If you don't have many cases to clean, you can wipe them off with alcohol.
For handgun rounds loaded with jacketed bullets, I just throw them into my vibratory cleaner with corncob for 20-30 minutes
Thank you for responding. Think I’ll go with the wash n wax in the tumbler and see how it does, and try one shot if I get any stickiness when sizing or flaring
 
I have been using a FA-RT tumbler since they first came out. The base on my first one died last year. Unfortunately they dont sell a replacement so I had to order a whole new kit. I have 2 drums now so I use one without pins using Dawn to clean brass for resizing/decapping then use the second one with pins for a good clean before priming using ArmorAll Ultra Shine Wasn N Wax and lemi-shine.

Harbor Freight sells the same magnet that FA does except it has a 20" stem on it and is great for getting the pins off of the floor.
I use a regular Presto food dehydrator for drying the brass
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top