Gun values, like water, seek their own level.
Unfortunately, the costs of making a high quality, all metal handgun of the 1911 design . . . and have it be both very accurate AND very dependable force the price up above $ 1,000. That's just the way it is, and gun sellers know what they are worth. Plus, the markup on guns isn't great to begin with.
Here are several suggestions to consider:
1. A QUALITY, USED GUN
Start attending IDPA, IPSC and other sanctioned handgun events in your geographic area and let shooters know you are looking for a good used gun that fits your specifications.
I guarantee you that someone there is eyeing yet another high-dollar gun and is thus ready to part with a great used gun of top quality. Just make sure it isn't worn-out and that it functions really well. Other serious shooters there can help you make this call, and most competitors wouldn't think of cheating you either. Not being retailers, but simply shooters, most guys love helping others get good stuff at decent prices . . . and it helps them get their new dream gun too!
2. START WITH QUALITY AND FEATURES . . .
Hold off and save the money to get the gun you want new! If you already have most of the money now anyway, I assure you that you'll find a way to save the rest faster than you can imagine.
Go with QUALITY . . . not features!!! Once you find the quality product you want, THEN load it with the features you want. Don't buy a low-end jam-o-matic loaded with lots of features yet it isn't reliable or accurate.
3. GET THE QUALITY BRAND BUT INITIALLY LEAVE OFF A FEW FRILLS . . .
Go with a quality handgun that lacks a couple of the features you want, then add them later. Ambi-safeties are one of those things. I'm left handed and so I "need/want" an ambidexterous safety but frankly, unless I was shooting competitions, I COULD manipulate the left side safety fairly quickly with my right hand as I brought the weapon up to point. Later, I could add the ambi-safety. It is NOT a difficult job to do or to have done on a 1911!
SKIP THE CHECKERING . . . Cut checkering is a nice LOOKING feature, and I currently have it on my Kimber CDP Ultra .45 auto used for concealment. HOWEVER . . . skateboard tape applied to the same area does just as good a job, and that's what I use on my full-size competition .45. Hand checkering is EXPENSIVE but does nothing for the function of the gun that skateboard tape doesn't do for a couple of bucks in material!
Hope this helps. Here are the main things you REALLY need:
1. It HAS to go "BANG" every time!
2. It HAS to be accurate, and for this to happen . . .
3. It HAS to have a great trigger pull. Finally, if you are left handed . . .
4. It HAS to have an ambidexterous safety.
New guns this reliable, near or at your price range, would probably include:
Kimber, Colt, S&W and Dan Wesson. I'm leaving a lot of other brands out for various reasons.
Finally, budget for at least 250-500 rounds of cheap but new ammunition. I wouldn't trust my life to ANY automatic until it could digest this amount of ammo without jamming.
which allowed me to NOT use my conversion kit.