What about using a sheetrock knife for caping elk?

[nm_shooter]

Last year, I was frustrated again while field dressing an elk. I have several inexpensive knives that sharpen easily, but dull easily. Once I get through the hide, no problem. I use a small filet knife to quarter, but getting through the neck hide / back hide is a pain.

I need a decent knife, and am prepared to buy one, but with funds tight I don't want to screw this up.

I have also considered carrying a disposable blade sheetrock knife to make initial cuts through the hide. Once through the hide, things move quick. Has anyone used a sheetrock knife with heavy duty blades for skinning?

I've found that a small sharp knife, a filet knife, and knowing where to cut gets the job done fast for quartering. But I'm tired of having to resharpen my old hunting knife over and over and over.

Yeah, I know... this is actually two problems. I'll take advice on a blade that will hold an edge too

Thanks!

 

[Brian Williams]

Mora, made by Frost, and they are inexpensive.

 

[hso]

The Scandinavians have been harvesting Caribou and Moose forever and using moras for nearly as long.

That said, my wife's BIL uses utility knives and selected different blades for different purposes when dressing game. He did have to modify the body's with friction tape and cleaning the things was a pain.

 

[Sav .250]

Why not buy yourself something other than a "cheap" knife? I`ll leave it at that.

 

[Brian Williams]

Also one of the problems with a cheap construction "safety" is they are cheap, slippery when wet, and break easily.
If you want to use one get a good one.

 

[R H Clark]

The Mora is the best cheap knife I know of.It's probably a lot better than the cheap knives you are using now.You can use anything that will work but if you want a real quality knife that will hold an edge,my siggestion would be a Bob Dozier in D2.I also love the Wilderness sheath.It will run you around $200 but you will have a quality piece that will last longer than your lifetime.

 

[Coyote3855]

My son uses a disposable blade utility knife for those first cuts on big game. Says it works great. I have a couple where the blade retracts into the handle. I'd trust those over the ones that fold.

 

[rcmodel]

Concerning MORA knives?
They sure are sharp all right.
I cut all four fingers to the bone with one when I was a teenager.

No guard, and a blood slick hand in below zero temp allowed it to slip though my nearly frozen fingers while field dressing game.

If you go that route, be aware of that No Guard, Slick Handle thing about them.
To some it's a feature I guess.
To me it's a defect in an otherwise great hunting knife!

rc

 

[Gordon]

I used the original one of these for many years with a pack of blades to skin elk and bear ect. before I found something better.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wyoming-Knife/7080141

 

[JHK94]

Concerning MORA knives?
They sure are sharp all right.
I cut all four fingers to the bone with one when I was a teenager.

No guard, and a blood slick hand in below zero temp allowed it to slip though my nearly frozen fingers while field dressing game.

If you go that route, be aware of that No Guard, Slick Handle thing about them.
To some it's a feature I guess.
To me it's a defect in an otherwise great hunting knife!

rc

While the original version lacks a guard, they do have some models that do have guards.

 

[nmlongbow]

I used and Outdoor Edge caper and guthook this year on my elk. 90% of the work was done with caper including quartering and boning out in the field. Neither knife needed resharpening and could easily do another elk without a touchup. Both of these can be found for about $50.

The OE swingblade is another good one and also runs about $50.

If this is too much $$ then the Mora is your best best but they don't hold an edge for as long.

 

[ArfinGreebly]

Modern Mora

For those concerned about Mora knives "not having a guard" I would recommend viewing the RagweedForge Swedish Knife Catalog page and take note of the newer handle designs.

For example, the Bushcraft Triflex (carbon steel), a tough, sharp-as-heck knife with a modern grippy handle with the finger guard molded in:

The Bushcraft Force (stainless) is similar:

The Bushcraft Survival is also Sandvik stainless, but it's a little outside the "cheap" zone:

Yes, they still have the classics, but they've got some modern patterns in both carbon and stainless. You'll find that several of them have molded finger guards.

 

[The Highlander]

I recently got a 6" Old Hickory Skinner and it's really nice for the price ($5-10) Came extremely dull but takes a really nice edge. 1095 carbon steel. Haven't had any issues with rusting. If you want something a bit smaller and you have a dremel, many people have converted their hickory skinner into a nesmuk pattern. Still has a lot of belly but with a more useful tip. I haven't done it personally, but it's on my list of things to do. It's one of my sharpest knives. (one of my favorites too)

 

[Mp7]

guard



ugly and useful as heck. I bought 10 of them for like 7$ a piece.
Wish i had bought more, when the i had the chance top get that price.

....gave most of them to folks who had crap knives

 

[22-rimfire]

As said, a Mora should take care of your issues. Guards? Take a look at the Mora Scout Classic knife. Very traditional with a large metal guard. I'm not a big Mora user, but they work and they are inexpensive.

 

[Brian Williams]

Heck, even a Lowes special/Case Jr Sodbuster would work better than a Safety razor knife.

 

[Gordon]

I can't believe you people never used a Wyoming Hunter ! In Alaska in the 70s and 80s it ws quite the rage for the purpose. You can forget sharpening in the field basically with one. A blade was good for one brown bear or a couple elk or carabou. I have done 3 large pigs on one blade in an afternoon and the boar gristle on 200 pound plus pigs is nasty caked with mud. I actually would get a couple dull blades for mine and sharpen them on a 325 Norton stone and use them again, the blades are pretty thick and good stainless, at least they were. I put up the link to Walmart that sells the new plastic ones.

 

[Frozen North]

I saw this post with full intent of opening it and recommending a Mora.... looks like everyone beat me to it!

I like the companion series. They have grippy when wet and full of animal fat grips, and can be found for under $12.... They are sharp, stay sharp, and sharpen easily when they dull. How can you beat that? I like a fancy knife as much as the next guy, but you don't have to worry about abusing the tar out of these due to the price.

 

[Bobson]

For those concerned about Mora knives "not having a guard" I would recommend viewing the RagweedForge Swedish Knife Catalog page and take note of the newer handle designs.

Just saw this, not trying to bring this thread out of it's comatose state. Quick question. Is this company a good (safe, legit, etc) place to buy a Mora from? If not, or if you're not sure, what would you suggest?

I want to come up with some inexpensive gift ideas, and I could also use a good quality knife. This seems like a great option.

 

[ArfinGreebly]

Ragweed Forge

For those concerned about Mora knives "not having a guard" I would recommend viewing the RagweedForge Swedish Knife Catalog page and take note of the newer handle designs.

Just saw this, not trying to bring this thread out of it's comatose state. Quick question. Is this company a good (safe, legit, etc) place to buy a Mora from? If not, or if you're not sure, what would you suggest?

I want to come up with some inexpensive gift ideas, and I could also use a good quality knife. This seems like a great option.

Ragnar, the proprietor of Ragnar's Forge (aka Ragweed Forge) is top drawer.

I recently received a shipment of Swedish folders from him. All good.

Ragnar is an actual knife guy, not just sum dood selling knives.

I have no complaints, and haven't seen any regarding him here or on the knife forums.

 

[Bobson]

Outstanding. Thanks a lot, AG.