What are some good arows for deer hunting?

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i like the easton axis arrows. slim and heavy, they are accurate and have great penetration. a little pricey though.


my old stand by....beman ics hunters. a little fatter and lighter, penetration isn't as good, but i have taken several deer with these and never had any problems
 
I use Gold Tip XT Hunter carbon arrows.

Have used XX75's and XX78's as well.

Depending on your budget. Make sure you select the right arrow for your set up. Arrow spline is very critical for proper arrrow flight. Easton has a good selection chart on their website as does just about any arrow manufacture.
 
i use the eaton exel st 's. they work very good out to 50 yds. and are not that expensive.
 
I shoot Carbon Express Terminator Hunters. If you go the Carbon Express's website there is a chart that tells you which size arrow will work best with your set up.
 
I may be stuck in the past but it seems to work for me, I'm still using aluminums.
 
Gold tip carbon arrows are for me. Carbon arrows eliminated the need for an overdraw, and they are either straight, or broken. Aluminum arrows are going the way of the betamax vcr.
 
There are getting to be alot of new companies makeing arrows now but
imho Carbon express are the best. You dont need the Maxims for hunting
you will never know the difference between them and the Terminators
unless you are a very good target shooter.
The Gold tips are also a good choice and they run about the same price.
I just got a 1/2 dozen at Gander mountain for $39.99. I use to buy
them from a local custom arrow maker who white dipped and fletched them
to your specifications but he is gone now.
 
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I'm stuck in the distant past.

Wooden arrows, made of port orford cedar. Fletch with traditional turkey or goose feather fletching and a good broadhead.


For best results, launch from a good longbow or recurve.

Sam
 
Lennyjoe,

Invest in a fletching jig if you intend to fletch your own. Otherwise, it's a pain in the rear. Its great though, seeing something you put together with your own hands penetrate and kill your target so you can bring home meat.

Sam
 
I've fletched aluminums in the past but cant seem to find my jig anymore. Pretty much hung up the bow while I was in Arizona. Took up the rifle again there due to the terrain.

Now that I'm back east I'll be getting into archery hot and heavy again. First on my list is a new jig and a quality target.
 
Since when does an aluminum arrow require an overdraw? I've never used one on my bows. Theres a such thing as too light for hunting arrows. I've seen more carbon arrows broken than aluminum arrows bent. For that matter in my experience aluminums are straight or broken. Whatever you shoot needs inspected regularly. Look on archerytalk.com for pictures of what happens when arrows explode on firing.

Come to think of it I've a set of cedar arrows for Grandpas old recurve. I just don't shoot it much anymore. I figure its more of a family heirloom.
 
Aluminums dont really require a overdraw unless your draw length is longer than the arrow is made.. Overdraws are more for getting more speed byusing a shorter arrow...
Carbon arrows break under high stress.. You will know a carbon is breaking by the crackling sound of the fibers seperating...

Carbon is the easiest to inspect.. I always flex mine back and forth a little bit to see if they crackle or bend easily... I always tighten my tips after each shot.. Field points will back out of carbons easily...


For me i shoot Beman ICS 340s...
To pick a carbon arrow you do it by your draw weight...
400s are very light and are made for 50-60 pound bows
340s (and comparable sizes) are a little stiffer and are good for up to around 72-75... Anything heavier and you will want a 300 arrow...
 
I'm with Waid. kinda I'm not standing next to him but same idea.:) I'm also having to buy for two right now. 15 year old son so you know.
 
i like the game getter 4 made by easton its an aluminum arrow but it has good penetration. i have shot clear through deer at 77 yards. most people like the carbon arrows but i have tried different kinds and they had a tendency of breaking off just below the fletching so i personally do not care for them but for the most part it is personal preference. you just need to find a good broadhead (i like the 100 grain thunderheads) that shoots well with your choice of arrow.
 
For that matter in my experience aluminums are straight or broken
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:confused:

I've seen plenty of aluminum arrows that were bent. Roll them across a table or board that doens't interfere with the fletchings and you'll see a few that are not true.

Carbon arrows are either good or bad, no in between.

As for overdraws, to each his own. I've used them in the past but have since gone to a lighter carbon arrow over a shorter aluminum with overdraw. If you have any flaws in your shot, an overdraw will definitely multiply the flaw.


I repeat;
Make sure you select the right arrow for your set up. Arrow spline is very critical for proper arrow flight
Click to expand...
 
Take note, Ricky:
Lots of people talk about what arrow to use, but are hard pressed to tell you why they use that particular type, medium, or design.
Most people either buy whatever they can find, and when it doesn't break or otherwise immediately malfunction, they call it good. Or, they use what their buddies use.

These days, with the market shared by self bows and high tech compounds and everything in between, arrow choices have never been more diverse.

If you take the time to learn what arrow shafts, fletching, nocks, and tips are workable for your setup, and why, then you'll be ahead of 99% of archers out there.

If you don't want to worry that much with it, there are many good opinions out there.

What's a good arrow for your bow? You tell me.
 
If you take the time to learn what arrow shafts, fletching, nocks, and tips are workable for your setup, and why, then you'll be ahead of 99% of archers out there.
Click to expand...

Very true statement. The other 1% of us do our homework, rangework and math before purchasing just any arrow.
 
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