What are some good NON compound bows?

[Kestrel]

Who makes some good non-compund bows? I've never had bow (well, when I was a kid) and am just looking to kind of experiment. I'm not really interested in a compound - just a "plain" one. (???) Not an extremely lond one, though. I don't know if someone makes a kind of compact recurve or something?

Does anyone make one that is a take-down style?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Skofnung]

Try Fred Bear.

I got my hands on a used 45# recurve made by Fred Bear, and it is a great bow.

I am by no means an expert when it comes to archery, so others may have a better suggestion, but I like my Fred Bear.

Take care

 

[Normark]

Hey There...

Try an Excalibur recurve crossbow.
Best crossbow on the market..

I shoot an Exocet..

www.excaliburcrossbow.com

ttyle

Eric...

 

[bad_dad_brad]

Steve, I know this is not an answer to your question, and get a recurve if you are so inclined. They are out there, but decent ones are expensive because of low demand, of course there are those ultra-cheap fiberglass things that I shot as a kid that you can still get at K-Mart. But, if you want to experiment successfully with archery and capture the joy of this interesting hobby, try a beginners compound target bow. I would recommend the Matthews Genesis as a starter. A wonderful little bow at about $150 - 170.

Easy to pull + Quality + Accurate = Fun with a Matthews Genesis.

http://www.genesisbow.com/

 

[stevelyn]

Steve,

Do a Google search with the words 'traditional archery', 'longbows', 'recurve bows' and similar search words and you will get overwhelmed with info. Clicking on the link below should get you started in the right direction.
www.stickbow.com

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Martin makes some very nice traditional bows. I have a Martin Howatt Hunter recurve, which although I have not shot it (or any bow) in a few years, is beatifully made and shoots real nicely.

http://www.martinarchery.com/bows/traditional.htm

 

[Remington Employee]

What's your draw weight and your draw lenght?

Large guy , average frame, small?


I would look at Bear Archery


Grizzly

http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomf...e=NSCPTop&remove_url=http://www.fulldraw.net/

or

Kodiack Magnum

http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomf...e=NSCPTop&remove_url=http://www.fulldraw.net/

I love my 1972 vintage Kodiack Magnum

 

[Kestrel]

Rem Empl,

I don't know what my draw length would be. I'm 6', 200lbs., with a 35" sleeve.

Steve

 

[Baba Louie]

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...og/category-link.jhtml_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21424
Click on the "Compare" button
Takedowns gonna cost ya some money... PSE makes the Kudo series around $250 + shipping

Start simple, work your way up the ladder if ya choose. Don't get all he-man and order a 75# at the outset. Nothing wrong with a 50-55# and some 31"(maybe longer w/ 35" reach) arrows.

www.archerytalk.com is another place to take a lurk
www.edersbow.com is also fun to look thru

 

[Remington Employee]

To determine draw length, draw an arrow back and mark it at the point in which it is even with the front of the bow.

This is your draw length. (you can go to any archery shop and they should have a lightweight bow set up for this )

The only drawback to getting a new traditional bow is that after practice, you'll aquire the ability to shoot a greater drawweight.

I would suggest that you look into a USED Recurve from an archery proshop as your first bow.

If you can't find a good selection from a local dealer try this place for new and used traditional bows:

http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomf...=http://www.borg.com/~tollgate/tollgate2f.htm

These people are extremeley knowlegeable on traditional archery:

Tollgate Bowhunting Supply
Tollgate Traditions
1233 US HWY 20, West Winfield, NY 13491
Owners: George and Margaret Catlin
Phone: (315)822-5893

I have a short drawlenght, and the Kodiack Magnum fits archers with shorter drawlenghts.

I shoot a draw weight of 50 lbs and that is plenty for killing game.

Make sure to try a shooting glove, shooting finger tab, and an armguard to keep your sleeve from contacting the string.

The Quiver is up to you, they very in styles, I prefer either a hip quiver like ones used by 3d target shooters,

In rugged country, a back quiver, I'm in the process of fashioning my own out of one of these hip quivers and a red fox that I shot a few years ago. it will make an interesting backquiver when I'm finished


Arrows:
You can use wood, aluminum, or carbon out of a recurve.

(NEVER USE WOOD ARROWS OUT OF A COMPOUND!) You'll break an arrowshaft off about a quarter or half way back on release and DRIVE THE SHAFT THRU YOUR BOWHAND!

I use specially modified wood arrows made for me by George and Margaret
that have a small screw in adapter so I can use either fieldpoints or broadheads.

http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomf...=http://www.borg.com/~tollgate/tollgate2f.htm

Broadheads:

I use The Magnus II 2-blade #MA100 with both my recurve and compound bows.

http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomf...p&remove_url=http://www.magnusbroadheads.com/

If you have anymore questions, let me know

 

[Ullr]

Once you've done some research on what you want (45# recurve is perfect for experimenting with), be sure to hit eBay -- some great bargains on older Fred Bear models once you know what to look for. I picked up a Bear Kodiak in 45# @ 28in for myself and a Ben Pearson 35# for my wife for less than $100 total. We do some stump shooting and informal "target" shooting once in a while for kicks. Recurves are more fun than compounds imho -- if I want to be precise, I'll use a rifle!

 

[Sunray]

Hi, Steve. Don't buy any bow without visiting a bow shop. A bow is a very personal thing. Even a compound. It must be fitted to you. As do the arrows. An archery shop will be able to fit you with a bow that is within your budget and size requirements.
Long bows and recurves shoot differently. (Been playing with both for eons.) Generally, a recurve will shoot the arrows faster than a long bow of the same draw weight. A shorter recurve will shoot faster than a longer one of the same weight. The "weight" being draw weight. 40 pounds, 50 etc.
How much weight can you lift without straining or hurting yourself? The rule of thumb is if you can lift 50 pounds without trying all day, then that's not far off the draw weight for you. Do not buy a bow you cannot shoot all day without hurting yourself. Buy one you can easily pull all day. The bow shop will, or should, let you try any bow they have. If you have to struggle to pull it, it's too heavy.
The thing is that a non-compound requires you to hold the entire draw weight. Technique and upper body tone makes this easier. You use shoulder muscles drawing a bow that you use for nothing else. You don't really pull a bow. You push and pull at the same time using your back and shoulder muscles. Not your arms.

 

[ReadyontheRight]

http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/meadows/2870/

Chief Paduke Longbows.

I purchased a beautiful, traditional longbow from this guy a few years ago. It was very nice, but I ended up being stupid and breaking it while stringing it up as if it was a kid's fiberglass bow.

An alternative is to purchase the components and make your own bow. It looks like he is only selling the kits at this time.