What can I get in S&W?

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Bigkrackers

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I have a GP100 in 6" and it's my only revolver. I have been buying autos for a while now and want to get back into revolvers.

My main use for a new/used revolver would be for carry and light range work. I'd like a 3"- 4", chambered for .357 mag.

I'm looking for new or used so the help I need is in the area of used. I have looked a S&W's site so I know what the current models are but I'm at a loss for the older models and what one could expect to pay.

I don't know what the used market is around here yet but I want to become more knowledgeable before I go looking just in case I find something.

Thanks for the help.
 
Some samples:

I picked up a very well used model 28 (N-frame) this spring for $275. I was watching some fair-to-good model 19s (K-frame) last week on GBroker that went just a little over $300. Model 66s (stainless model 19s) were high
$300s-$400. These were some better priced ones --- of course, minty guns go up from there.

Q
 
The K frame .357's would probably be the best bet for your intended use. I would suggest something along the lines of a M19 or a 66. While some say that you shouldn't shoot a steady diet of full house .357's through them, I have never been able to wear any of mine out. There are the fixed sight versions (M13 or 65) also that are usually somewhat cheaper.

My knowledge of S&W's pretty much stops after about 1980, so someone else who is more versed in the later models will have to chime in about them.
 
Not knowing where there is I must speak to here. I have seen a 60-10 3" for $375, a 66 in 2.5" for $425, a 686 in 4" for $390, an alloy J-frame demo not quite Performnace Center grade that brought $650, a near mint 13 in 3" for $500.

Generally less than 4" pull a premium price, 2.5 and 3" more desireable.
 
I just sent payment to another THR member for what I hope is a very nice S&W S&w 65-3 4". I paid $350 shipped but I don't know if that was a great price or not. I don't always shop for long periods of time.
 
If you'll be shooting more .38spl's than you do .357mags then I second, third or whatever the count is now for a K frame gun. The K frame guns are a little lighter and more compact than your GP so a 3 or 4 inch barrel would be a bit nicer on your hip all day long. There's a number of options depending on if you want the fixed or adjustable rear sight style.

I say this from the standpoint of having shot a lot of different revolvers both of my own and belonging to others. None of them fits and balances like a K frame in my hands. My N frame 28 is only around because it shoots so well. But it doesn't balance as nicely. If I manage to score a 29 some day I'll likely part with the 28.
 
BC Rider said it well. I have three K frame magnums. I have one 13, two 19s and one 66. In my humble opinion the finest handling and best balanced revolver around. And the double action trigger is better than most any revolver I have used. You can expect to paid $350 to $500 depending on condition.
Another option is Rugers Security/Service Six series revolver. The handling and balance are almost as good as the S&W. Price should be less than the Smith.

I have all of the above revolvers and as a group than are some of the best shooting revolvers.

Good luck,
Howard
 
S&W K Frame .357s include the model:

13: 3" and 4" barrels, blued or nickel, fixed sights (about $500 in my area for a 3", $400 for a 4")

19: 3" and 4" (also 2.5" and 6"), blued or nickel, adjustable sights (note the 3" 19s are pretty rare, and the most expensive of all barrel lengths) (about $450-$500 for a 4", $700+ for a 3")

65: basically a stainless Model 13 (not up on my 65 prices, but probably about like the 13)

66: basicallly a stainless Model 19 (prices seem to be about the same)

Another option would be a 2.75" or 4" Ruger "Six" revolver (3" barrels are out there, but they are rare), including the Security Six (adj sights, square butt), Police Service Six (fixed sights, square butt) and the Speed Six (fixed sights, round butt). All models are available in blue or stainless. Prices vary anywhere from $275 for a 4" Police Service Six to $500 or so for a mint 2.75" Security Six. Just be aware that they were offered in .357 and .38 Special (and a few Speed Sixes in 9mm).

I own both a 4" Ruger Police Service Six .357 and a 3" S&W Model 13. I greatly enjoy both, and both are easy to carry with a good gunbelt and holster.


Ruger Police Service Six (paid $274 in 2009):


DSC07849.jpg


S&W Model 13-3, 3", paid $450 in 2010:


DSC07829.jpg
 
Eh, I'll share a different opinion. Already owning a GP100 and a SP101, I purchased a Model 10 S&W (k-frame, 38spl). The SA trigger is a bit better than the GP100, a decent amount better than the SP101, but ... the grip doesn't fit me AT ALL. Feels it was molded for some dude who is 5 feet tall (I'm only 5'10", not like I'm some huge guy), makes me hold the gun at at an unnatural angle... and my k-frame feels like some delicate flower compared to my rugers. Feels like I could take my sp101, physically beat my k-frame to death with it, and then head to the range and the sp101 wouldn't give a crap.

In short... I bought into the hype and wasn't impressed.
 
@jad0110 - That's a nice breakdown. Thanks. So is there a dash mark that I should stay at or under? This wont be a safe queen, it will be carried so I'm not looking for any kind of collectors gun. From what I have been reading in various forums a lot of folks are shying away from the safety that the newer S&W have and make a big deal over a no dash find. I presume a no dash is the earliest production run in the model?
 
Generally speaking,the earlier the gun is, the more desirable (expensive) it is. The first version of a particular model will be a no-dash. As they revised a model they would add a - then a number (1,2,3 etc) to denote the change.

I have a different take from harmon rabb in that the grip on a Smith K frame fits my hand perfectly. Remember, they have round butt frames, square butt frames + a variety of stocks for them. However, he is right in that the Ruger products are very robust guns.

The fact that S&W has been around so long should attest to the strength of their design and construction.
 
So is there a dash mark that I should stay at or under? This wont be a safe queen, it will be carried so I'm not looking for any kind of collectors gun. From what I have been reading in various forums a lot of folks are shying away from the safety that the newer S&W have and make a big deal over a no dash find. I presume a no dash is the earliest production run in the model?
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As highpower states, generally the older guns are more desirable for collectors, but honestly as long as it passes the checkout process and the price is reasonable, I'd consider it. Of the 12 S&W revolvers I own, 2 have the lock and MIM parts. The MIM parts don't really bother me, though the ILS does irk me a bit. I've made a personal decision to not purchase any more S&Ws with locks, but that's my choice and I respect other's opinions to come to a different conclusion.

The first version of a particular model may not have a model # at all. S&W introduced the model numbering familiar today back in 1957, IIRC. It may have been '58 or '59. Today, models that ran back past the adoption of model #s are referred to as "pre model X", such as a pre-model 19, which would be .357 Magnum K Frame revolver with a blued finish, also known as the Combat Magnum. Note that the only .357 S&W K Frame that existed before model #s were adopted was the Model 19, and those pre-19s are pretty hard to find these days. The easiest way to spot them is the lack of a "Mod 19" designation on the crane and the 5 screw configuration (4 screws on the left sideplate and a 5th at the front of the trigger gaurd). The first Model 19 (aka "19 no dash") may have also had the 5 screw configuration, but I don't recall for sure at the moment.
 
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a pre-lock pre MIM Smith 686 can be had for about 400 bucks.

versatile gun, good price

I picked up a police trade in last year. It had been carried by a policeman in Victoria policeman and he didn't shoot it much.

A lot of gun for the money
 
"a pre-lock pre MIM Smith 686 can be had for about 400 bucks."

Where do you shop?

All local gun stores and gun shows say otherwise.
 
Where do you shop?
Click to expand...

sorry

I should have said "around here".

The 686 I purchased was from a local "cop shop" called GT Distributors located in Austin Texas.

Please accept my apologies for misleading you if I did so.
 
+1...

Some one mentioned "wearing out a K-Frame" I personally do not think that is possible.. We had a dozen K-22's at the Academy that were in use from about 1958, through 1995. They were used with every cadet class that came through.. when they were removed from service, the finishes were almost white. They still ran like the day they were bought..

I have 2, that I personally put about 150,000 rounds EACH through, and never HAD to replace a part... mind you, they were mostly wadcutters.. but they have NEVER failed to function... I wore out presses, but the pistols kept working..
 
This is what works for me.....

The way to get good deals on firearms is to hit all your local gun shops as often as possible. That will put you in a position to have the first shot (pun intended) at any fresh guns that might come in.

DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU START LOOKING. I cannot stress this enough, I see countless threads with people asking "what do you think of this gun?" Or "is this a good deal?"

First thing, no one can give a real qualified opinion about a particular gun without handling it. Even the best pictures fall short of being able to examine it in person.

Secondly, firearms prices differ wildly with different areas of the country. In your particular neighborhood, guns sell for what they they are worth in that area and may sell for more or less somewhere else.

Only you can decide if the price is fair for you, and really good deals don't last. Sometimes there just isn't time to dither around and you just have to suck it up and make a quick decision.
 
Add my name to those who advocate a pre-keylock 686 (or even better, IMHO, a 586). Just as light/handy as a K-frame, but that piece of mind that you can't damage it with full-power .357 loads (yeah, I know it's unlikely that one would wear out a K-frame).

Anyway, the S&W just doesn't feel as klunky in my my hands as a Ruger.....but maybe that's just me.
 
Excuse me while I finish up a good belly laugh at reading harmon rab's account in Post #10...

... OK, I'm finished for now... :D Thanks for a good belly shaker there harmon :D I don't feel slighted that you don't like the K frame guns. Just a really good chuckle at your accout of the Ruger tough guy beating :D The world is big enough for everyone and their varying tastes. That's the joy of having more than one maker and multiple designs so we have options and can all find our own "G spot" gun that makes us feel "just right" :D

I guess it's all what we get used to using. Once acustomed to a specific feel everything else seems somehow odd without a lot of changeover time. For me having shaped my revolver tastes with the K frame guns when I got to shoot a couple of GP100's I found them nice but big in my hands. Much like shooting my Model 28 N frame in fact. At present I have four different K frame guns and one N frame. So obviously I'm biased. But I'm happy with my bias.

By the way, nothing sucks on a K frame like the small stock service grips. At the very least you want to get a gun with target grips or get a set really soon. Even better are Hogue grips in either rubber or wood depending on if you want classy and a half or utilitarian. For me the guns didn't feel right without at least the S&W target grips. And even those are a distant second to Hogues for my hands.
 
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