VonFatman
Member
Glad to be of service!
Bob
Bob
What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
WestGaHunter
Member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2008
- Messages
- 2
I got a pair of those "drug store" reading glasses with very high magnification. While I clear corn cob particles out with a small finishing nail, the glasses help with close inspection of brass right out of the tumbler.
Also: Years ago, my reloading teacher suggested rattling empty cartridges together, two at a time. When you get used to the right sound of brass clinking, a split neck or separating case head makes a very different sound. This habit also adds a little music to the reloading process ...
Also: Years ago, my reloading teacher suggested rattling empty cartridges together, two at a time. When you get used to the right sound of brass clinking, a split neck or separating case head makes a very different sound. This habit also adds a little music to the reloading process ...
Tony Sopranno
Member
I've been hearing a lot about different lubes. Imperial Wax Lube being the best hands down say many. Some use Imperial, some Dillon spray lube, and some like Vaseline.
I'm still very, very, new to this, but I started resizing with what I had around, and moly-grease worked well enough -- then a huge brainstorm: why not the lube-wax I use (very successfully) for my black powder revolver..???
I have tons of it around, so why not?
Anyway, I tried it and it worked really well, much smoother than the moly-grease or I would guess Vaseline. My thought is it will work as well as Imperial since it seems to be made of nearly the same kind of ingredients.
I was totally surprised at how smooth it ran though the Lee resizing die. I thought I'd throw this out for anyone wanting to give it a whirl.
Tony Sopranno's Re-Sizing Wax Lube
15% canning paraffin wax
35% beeswax
50% any kind of veggie-oil or animal fat you can scrape up
and a smidgen of Murphy's Oil Soap
After the two waxes are all melted down add the 50% oil-fat part and then a small tad of Murphy's Oil Soap as an emulsifier. I usually stop when the Murphy's smell is evident in the mix. This is the point where the emulsifier properties really take hold, and it makes a nice composite waxy-soap-oil mix. And nothing will ever rust or corrode when it comes into contact with this stuff.
As it cools down it looks just like saddle soap but it smells pretty close to Murphy's Oil Soap -- and it's great stuff! I have a bunch of it here (poured into little breath-mint cans) for my BP gun so trying it out made lots of sense. It's probably a hassle to mix-up but if you have this stuff around, or feel experimental, give it a try. I doubt you'll be dissatisfied.
If I'm wrong please let me know, but for me this stuff seemed as smooth as "grease through a goose."
I'm still very, very, new to this, but I started resizing with what I had around, and moly-grease worked well enough -- then a huge brainstorm: why not the lube-wax I use (very successfully) for my black powder revolver..???
I have tons of it around, so why not?
Anyway, I tried it and it worked really well, much smoother than the moly-grease or I would guess Vaseline. My thought is it will work as well as Imperial since it seems to be made of nearly the same kind of ingredients.
I was totally surprised at how smooth it ran though the Lee resizing die. I thought I'd throw this out for anyone wanting to give it a whirl.
Tony Sopranno's Re-Sizing Wax Lube
15% canning paraffin wax
35% beeswax
50% any kind of veggie-oil or animal fat you can scrape up
and a smidgen of Murphy's Oil Soap
(I've used just about anything and everything for the fat/oil component from neatsfoot oil, to mink oil, to hamburger fat drippings, bacon grease, and olive oil.... but just plain old Crisco is good 'cause is easier to collect from the supermarket shelf.)
...Point being if it's veggie oil or animal fat based it makes little or no difference.
...Point being if it's veggie oil or animal fat based it makes little or no difference.
After the two waxes are all melted down add the 50% oil-fat part and then a small tad of Murphy's Oil Soap as an emulsifier. I usually stop when the Murphy's smell is evident in the mix. This is the point where the emulsifier properties really take hold, and it makes a nice composite waxy-soap-oil mix. And nothing will ever rust or corrode when it comes into contact with this stuff.
As it cools down it looks just like saddle soap but it smells pretty close to Murphy's Oil Soap -- and it's great stuff! I have a bunch of it here (poured into little breath-mint cans) for my BP gun so trying it out made lots of sense. It's probably a hassle to mix-up but if you have this stuff around, or feel experimental, give it a try. I doubt you'll be dissatisfied.
If I'm wrong please let me know, but for me this stuff seemed as smooth as "grease through a goose."
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
I have assorted Frankford Arsenal reloading trays (each holds 50 rounds).
When I'm in the process of making up loads, if I should need to stop for a little while, I place an identical reloading tray, upside down, on top of the 50 brass cases to protect anything from getting into the cases and to protect my cats from knocking the tray with cases over.
When I resume reloading, I simply lift the top tray off and pick up where I left off.
When I'm in the process of making up loads, if I should need to stop for a little while, I place an identical reloading tray, upside down, on top of the 50 brass cases to protect anything from getting into the cases and to protect my cats from knocking the tray with cases over.
When I resume reloading, I simply lift the top tray off and pick up where I left off.
VonFatman
Member
Inspector...good idea. Cats are not an issue in my home.
Bob
Bob
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
I have two cats who are pretty good at staying off my workbench which has the reloading bench at one end. I think they're afraid of the workbench because it is so cluttered with tools that they dare not even try to get up or something will undoubtedly fall on the floor and frighten them!
I don't like to take chances, though, when it comes to reloading.
When I got the Frankford Arsenal reloading trays, I was playing around with them and that's how I came up with the idea of covering the brass casings.
Those trays sure beat the "one-size-fits-all" RCBS tray! I have several of different ones for each caliber I reload.
Thanks, Bob, for the thumbs up!
I don't like to take chances, though, when it comes to reloading.
When I got the Frankford Arsenal reloading trays, I was playing around with them and that's how I came up with the idea of covering the brass casings.
Those trays sure beat the "one-size-fits-all" RCBS tray! I have several of different ones for each caliber I reload.
Thanks, Bob, for the thumbs up!
45crittergitter
Member
I keep my animated targets outside.... 
robertg5322
Member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2007
- Messages
- 28
Die Racks
Dillon die racks, hold 3 or 6 dies on the wall, off the bench top.
2 inch by 3 inch angle iron single stage press mount, used for decapping, bullet pulling, and occasionally sizing rifle brass. Allows press to be mounted on wall, out of the way when not in use, and clamped in vise for use. Also mounted RCBS case trimmer on same material.
Dillon die racks, hold 3 or 6 dies on the wall, off the bench top.
2 inch by 3 inch angle iron single stage press mount, used for decapping, bullet pulling, and occasionally sizing rifle brass. Allows press to be mounted on wall, out of the way when not in use, and clamped in vise for use. Also mounted RCBS case trimmer on same material.
Attachments
VonFatman
Member
Dang robertg5322, You are one of the handiest reloaders I've come across. Very nice work! Impressive to say the least!
Bob
Bob
Canuc Shooter
Member
Awesome piece of reloading handy work, boy I wish I could weld.
Again great work.
Again great work.
TooTaxed
Member
Just a quick couple of simple things in addition to my previous posts:
Reloading components and round equipment tend to roll off my reloading bench...to prevent this, just fasten a piece of trim with a raised edge to the edge of the bench top. Has saved me a lot of cussin!
I also find the various sizes of Zip-Lok plastic bags (the type with the zipper, NOT the "press & seal" type!) useful for storing those small parts that tend to get separated and lost after removal from the wrappers. They are transparent and you can write on them with a permanent marker.
Reloading components and round equipment tend to roll off my reloading bench...to prevent this, just fasten a piece of trim with a raised edge to the edge of the bench top. Has saved me a lot of cussin!
I also find the various sizes of Zip-Lok plastic bags (the type with the zipper, NOT the "press & seal" type!) useful for storing those small parts that tend to get separated and lost after removal from the wrappers. They are transparent and you can write on them with a permanent marker.
Smiling Bob
Member
Here's something I came up with for my Lee Auto-Disk (Pro Upgrade) powder measure. Makes it quick and easy to swap between single disk or adjustable charge bar and double disk kit without tools. Used a 6-32 brass screw 2" long, a 6-32 brass hex nut, and a 6-32 brass knurled nut. Put a dab of locktite on the threads just under the head of the screw and tightened the knurled nut. Works like a champ and cost about a buck and a half.
Smiling Bob
Smiling Bob
BADUNAME37
Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
No big deal,
But I've been getting those large plastic coffee containers that seemed to have just come out.
They are perfect size for collecting, sorting and storing brass! And, I believe they are stackable (probably if you always buy the same make of coffee/container).
Doing a quick search (after I posted), posts 263 and 324 also mentioned this. Sorry.
But I've been getting those large plastic coffee containers that seemed to have just come out.
They are perfect size for collecting, sorting and storing brass! And, I believe they are stackable (probably if you always buy the same make of coffee/container).
Doing a quick search (after I posted), posts 263 and 324 also mentioned this. Sorry.
I had to disassemble 200 rounds and found that the biggest pain was separating the bullet from the powder. I stole a food strainer from the wife's kitchen and set it over a Mason jar. The stainer caught the bullet and the powder fell right through and collected in the clean jar.
The biggest thing that I learned from this event; don't assume anything, including that which is printed on the outside of your box of bullets; weigh 'em before you load 'em!
The biggest thing that I learned from this event; don't assume anything, including that which is printed on the outside of your box of bullets; weigh 'em before you load 'em!
AKGuy
Member
Pill bottles and vitamin bottles make great little storage containers for virgin bullets...and for completed loads/rounds, too. Wrap a bit of electrical tape around the base of the lid and they're reasonably water/rainproof, too, for packing into the field. Easy to label, etc etc etc. If your rounds are rattling inside, stuff a bit of sponge or cloth in with the rounds...
I "color code" my loaded rounds with combination streaks of nail polish that also matches the parent product bottles. Two reds means 225gr Barnes with max load 748, and so on...easy to tell at a glance what ya got in yer hand...
I "color code" my loaded rounds with combination streaks of nail polish that also matches the parent product bottles. Two reds means 225gr Barnes with max load 748, and so on...easy to tell at a glance what ya got in yer hand...
williamthedog
Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2006
- Messages
- 97
you guys probably already do this but...
i used a silver sharpie on my dillon shellplates and wrote what i use them for.
it isnt a big deal if you only have a couple of them .
but it is one when you end up with 17 like i did.
i used a silver sharpie on my dillon shellplates and wrote what i use them for.
it isnt a big deal if you only have a couple of them .
but it is one when you end up with 17 like i did.
FROGO207
Member
I'm new to the forum and after reading this I find after many years reloading we all "discover" many of the same tricks for speed and efficency as well as savings.
Here's one
I took an old battery drill mounted it to a plywood platform with a metal band. Then after removing the switch and such, ran the power wires to a foot switch then to an old 12 volt battery out of a hotwheels car, hooked up a wallwart type trickle charger. Clamp it to the table, chuck in a lee lockstud of the apropriate size for the shell and length size away. Also if you choose the correct size round Just load a FMJ into the brass to make a platform to push a piece of dirty brass over the bullet point from other end, push on till it seizes in place and use steel wool to clean complete cases. For example a 9MM casing will fit over a 8MM neck and the 9MM can be polished completly including primer pocket before removing it. 32 SPL in the drill will hold a fired 30 cal brass, a 25 cal will hold a 223 fired casing. You get the idea. Lots faster than the tumbler if you are trying to get heavy tarnish off! It pays to reload about 25 different cartridges, lots of combos to try. There seem to be a lot of old drills out there with dead batteries to be recycled by one with a little time. I found no need to make this reversable but the hand-tighten chuck was a real help, no key to loose.
Rick
Here's one
I took an old battery drill mounted it to a plywood platform with a metal band. Then after removing the switch and such, ran the power wires to a foot switch then to an old 12 volt battery out of a hotwheels car, hooked up a wallwart type trickle charger. Clamp it to the table, chuck in a lee lockstud of the apropriate size for the shell and length size away. Also if you choose the correct size round Just load a FMJ into the brass to make a platform to push a piece of dirty brass over the bullet point from other end, push on till it seizes in place and use steel wool to clean complete cases. For example a 9MM casing will fit over a 8MM neck and the 9MM can be polished completly including primer pocket before removing it. 32 SPL in the drill will hold a fired 30 cal brass, a 25 cal will hold a 223 fired casing. You get the idea. Lots faster than the tumbler if you are trying to get heavy tarnish off! It pays to reload about 25 different cartridges, lots of combos to try. There seem to be a lot of old drills out there with dead batteries to be recycled by one with a little time. I found no need to make this reversable but the hand-tighten chuck was a real help, no key to loose.
Rick
bertus
Member
some presses like my rcbs partner chuck the spent primers through the ram.
What I did was inverting the righthand side bolt wich clamps the press to the tabe/bench hung a 3"funnel on same inverted bolt stuck a piece of discarded garden hose on the other end of the funnel wich ends up in waste basket and 99% of your primers end up in the basket.
The sound of the primer also confirms that it was removed.
Oscar
What I did was inverting the righthand side bolt wich clamps the press to the tabe/bench hung a 3"funnel on same inverted bolt stuck a piece of discarded garden hose on the other end of the funnel wich ends up in waste basket and 99% of your primers end up in the basket.
The sound of the primer also confirms that it was removed.
Oscar
moooose102
Member
OAL adjustment case mod
i made up a few of there so i could push the bullet back out easier than loading it into the "whack-a-mole" bullet puller for adjusting the oal while trying to get the bullet to just touch the rifleing. so i could find out how far out to seat the bullet. it works pretty good, but if you make one, use a 10-32 screw instead of the 10-24 i used. it will take less effort to push the bullet back out. also, if you use a little lube in the bullet it pushed back out easier.
i made up a few of there so i could push the bullet back out easier than loading it into the "whack-a-mole" bullet puller for adjusting the oal while trying to get the bullet to just touch the rifleing. so i could find out how far out to seat the bullet. it works pretty good, but if you make one, use a 10-32 screw instead of the 10-24 i used. it will take less effort to push the bullet back out. also, if you use a little lube in the bullet it pushed back out easier.
janobles14
Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2008
- Messages
- 1,095
^ now that i like!
janobles14
Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2008
- Messages
- 1,095
if you are like me and hate cleaning your reloading dies then heres your answer. i also now do this with new dies to get better results.
disassemble your dies and run them through your tumbler. use flintz metal polish and walnut media. after a couple of hours you have newly polished dies with no residue once they are cleaned. blow out media and reassemble.
disassemble your dies and run them through your tumbler. use flintz metal polish and walnut media. after a couple of hours you have newly polished dies with no residue once they are cleaned. blow out media and reassemble.
Jimfern
Member
45-70 Reloading tray
I took a piece of scrap wood and drilled 5/8" holes in it to make a loading tray for my 45-70 brass. The standard MTM and RCBS trays are too small.
I took a piece of scrap wood and drilled 5/8" holes in it to make a loading tray for my 45-70 brass. The standard MTM and RCBS trays are too small.
moooose102
Member
your supposed to CLEAN your dies???!!!
moooose102
Member
i did the same thing, only it doubles as my powder measure stand. be certain to use a FLAT WOOD CUTTING BIT so the cartridges will sit flat. if you use a metal cutting bit, the catridges will tilt, and possibly spill.
