What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
SP Shop Foreman
Member
That was my dad posting. He used a shaped steel wedge on top, real rubber in the center and a formed spring steel clip to slide over the dust cover.
Latigo
Latigo
First Big Foot
Member
Finally found a solution for running a tumbler for a few hours and turning off by itself.
Since bath fan timers run between fifteen minutes to half an hour, and jacuzzi bubble timers about an hour, they didn't allow enough time. But this last christmas I found an in-line timer for outdoor lights, that has a photo sensor to come on at dark, and run for sellected number of hours, from one to eight. So I set it for four hours, turn off the lights in the garage, and about my bedtime it turns off automatically. Won't come on again until I visit the garage again, (when it thinks it is daylight).
In Your Service:
First Big Foot
Since bath fan timers run between fifteen minutes to half an hour, and jacuzzi bubble timers about an hour, they didn't allow enough time. But this last christmas I found an in-line timer for outdoor lights, that has a photo sensor to come on at dark, and run for sellected number of hours, from one to eight. So I set it for four hours, turn off the lights in the garage, and about my bedtime it turns off automatically. Won't come on again until I visit the garage again, (when it thinks it is daylight).
In Your Service:
First Big Foot
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NorCalRanches
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2008
- Messages
- 55
Most all hardware stores sell a regular appliance timer that you can set for any period of time. Only $10 or so.
I have a trick I use with timers. I have one of those with a green "on" peg and a red "off" peg. I just took the green one off all together. I turn on the tumbler and put the red peg 4 hours from current time. It runs for 4 hours and does not come on again. This is handy if I want to run a batch but won't be back for a couple days.
First Big Foot
Member
Dear Nor Cal:
I know of them but they come back on the next day.
But the following fellow has a solution that I didn't think of, remove the "on" pin. Duuh! (Smack on the forehead!)
Thank you Ditzman.
But mine works well
I know of them but they come back on the next day.
But the following fellow has a solution that I didn't think of, remove the "on" pin. Duuh! (Smack on the forehead!)
Thank you Ditzman.
But mine works well
nalioth
Member
zombieoutfitters
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 54
Easy Case Measurement
I'm VERY new to reloading - just 9mm for now. I figured an easy way to measure cases.
Take an empty stock ammo box - for me a box of 50 9mm. Remove the ammo tray from the box. Load your rounds in your press. When done take out 4 random rounds, measure them with your case gauge or measurement device. If all is well, place the measured rounds in the tray, one in each corner. Then load up your ammo tray with the other 46 reloads. Take a CD case or other flat hard object and lay over the top of your reloads, press down on the rounds in the four corners and raise to eye-level...wiggle tray, you should see all rounds moving freely - or at least see if any are short/long. Then you can remove the CD case and easily inspect your primer seating by eye and touch. Viola!
I'm VERY new to reloading - just 9mm for now. I figured an easy way to measure cases.
Take an empty stock ammo box - for me a box of 50 9mm. Remove the ammo tray from the box. Load your rounds in your press. When done take out 4 random rounds, measure them with your case gauge or measurement device. If all is well, place the measured rounds in the tray, one in each corner. Then load up your ammo tray with the other 46 reloads. Take a CD case or other flat hard object and lay over the top of your reloads, press down on the rounds in the four corners and raise to eye-level...wiggle tray, you should see all rounds moving freely - or at least see if any are short/long. Then you can remove the CD case and easily inspect your primer seating by eye and touch. Viola!
closetgunnut
Member
^^^^^^
NICE JOB, jtuck!!!
NICE JOB, jtuck!!!
tumbler timer
I also use and outdoor light timer, about $10.
Set the timer dial for 2 or 4 hours past sunset, turn on tumbler, then put a piece of black tape over the sensor.
Tumbler runs for 2 hours and stops and stays off.
My on/off switch is now the piece of tape.
I also use and outdoor light timer, about $10.
Set the timer dial for 2 or 4 hours past sunset, turn on tumbler, then put a piece of black tape over the sensor.
Tumbler runs for 2 hours and stops and stays off.
My on/off switch is now the piece of tape.
Riss
Member
Made a chamber polisher for the Garand
Can be adapted for any rifle or pistol with the correct fired case and diameter rod. Got a 1/4" x 3 ft brass rod and tapped one end for a screw. Drilled a hole through a fired case so I can attach the case onto the rod after it is inserted in the bore. Pull the case, loaded with metal polish up into the chamber and spin with a drill to polish the chamber. Since the brass is soft and the polish is NOT lapping compound and has not grit is easily removes any fine particles from the chamber that otherwise prevent a fired case from being ejected. It CURED my Garand from tearing off case rims.
Can be adapted for any rifle or pistol with the correct fired case and diameter rod. Got a 1/4" x 3 ft brass rod and tapped one end for a screw. Drilled a hole through a fired case so I can attach the case onto the rod after it is inserted in the bore. Pull the case, loaded with metal polish up into the chamber and spin with a drill to polish the chamber. Since the brass is soft and the polish is NOT lapping compound and has not grit is easily removes any fine particles from the chamber that otherwise prevent a fired case from being ejected. It CURED my Garand from tearing off case rims.
I cut the socket off a nut driver with a 3/8" OD hollow shaft and formed the ears for an Enfield firing pin. The dremel tool worked best for forming the ears. I used a Klein 7/16" nutdriver that I picked up on sale for $5, but anything similar would work as long as it is 3/8" OD.
Steel Talon
Member
pennrg, can you post a picture?
Cry Havoc! said:I've made a few changes to my reloading area. Here are some pics I thought you might like to see.
In this picture you can see the 2 pieces of plywood my wife and I glued together. This is much stronger and so far has handled all of the torque I've put on it.
My first "reloading bench" was an old office table with a 3/4" MDF top. I mounted the press, an RCBS Jnr, and I managed to resize about 5 rounds before it snapped the table top across the holes drilled for the press..
So when I got the "Mk 2" bench, I decided to mount the press as in the pic below to avoid a repeat of the first incident..
AirplaneDoc
Member
Used superglue to attach the washer to the lid of my tumbler so there is only a wing nut to keep track of.
Added a leftover cabinet door knob or drawer pull to the top of my tumbler to make the lid easier to pickup.
Added a leftover cabinet door knob or drawer pull to the top of my tumbler to make the lid easier to pickup.
upjeeper
Member
my reloading bench is a countertop about 1 inch thick, deflects when i try to resize rifle brass. so I nailed two 2x4's together to make a 4x4, fabbed some brackets out of angle iron, and used a ramset to secure the brackets to the ground then the 4x4, and again i secured the 4x4 to the table top with brackets. DOES NOT MOVE AT ALL!!
i can post pictures if that would help anyone.
i can post pictures if that would help anyone.
SciFiJim
Member
upjeeper, The more pictures the better. If your particular application doesn't work for someone it might inspire a solution to a different problem.
upjeeper
Member
Here's what I did to my bench. I'm sure i could full length size .50's and it wouldn't budge. Wish I had used the 2" angle iron on into the concrete, but still works no problem.
VonFatman
Member
upjeeper,
THAT'S so me serious reinforcement!! Good idea a and good job!
claphoto,
Good idea. I use a Sharpie to mark all my tool-heads. Also to mark the nut/bolt/screw sizes on the press.
Bob
THAT'S so me serious reinforcement!! Good idea a and good job!
claphoto,
Good idea. I use a Sharpie to mark all my tool-heads. Also to mark the nut/bolt/screw sizes on the press.
Bob
Maj Dad
Member
A Crown Jewel
is this string (or rope - it's pretty big!). It should be compiled and printed, or put into a file that could be printed. There must be a thousand years of reloading experience in all these gems. I've seen a dozen or more I came up with on my own, and there are a couple of mine I need to look over & post. Kudos to all who have contributed!
I have had the Dillon and Midway spray on case lubes for years (bought several out west some years back) and tried tumbling it off after use, but rock-hard crud built up on the cases, so I wiped it off with big towels laid flat and folded over on top of the brass. I was ruminating lately and tried some solvents (isopronanol among them, since it's the solvent) but didnt get good results until I tried brake cleaner sprayed on the brass laying on a small towel and rolled them around on it and wiped them broadly with a rag. Works, and although I am 100% certain there are other, and surely some better ways (and they may already be on here & I just missed it), I have a suitable algorithm for processing large numbers (relatively speaking, again) of brass lubed with this type of lube. Keep up the good work & let's keep commenting on these topics without worrying about getting chided for repeating hints. There is a lot of info here!
Cheers,
Maj Dad
is this string (or rope - it's pretty big!). It should be compiled and printed, or put into a file that could be printed. There must be a thousand years of reloading experience in all these gems. I've seen a dozen or more I came up with on my own, and there are a couple of mine I need to look over & post. Kudos to all who have contributed!
I have had the Dillon and Midway spray on case lubes for years (bought several out west some years back) and tried tumbling it off after use, but rock-hard crud built up on the cases, so I wiped it off with big towels laid flat and folded over on top of the brass. I was ruminating lately and tried some solvents (isopronanol among them, since it's the solvent) but didnt get good results until I tried brake cleaner sprayed on the brass laying on a small towel and rolled them around on it and wiped them broadly with a rag. Works, and although I am 100% certain there are other, and surely some better ways (and they may already be on here & I just missed it), I have a suitable algorithm for processing large numbers (relatively speaking, again) of brass lubed with this type of lube. Keep up the good work & let's keep commenting on these topics without worrying about getting chided for repeating hints. There is a lot of info here!
Cheers,
Maj Dad
NotSoFast
Member
It would be nice to have a more pemanent photo. Your Dad's is already gone.
Tom S.
Member
I built an electronic round counter. Although it's on a Dillon 650, it could be modified to work on just about any press. Pictures, part numbers and schematic are here:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76531&hl=
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76531&hl=
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When cleaning rifles that you have to clean from the muzzle end.
Take an end from a squeeze mustard, honey, or catsup bottle- like the red ones from the restaurant. Cut it just right to fit into the bore and over the cleaning rod, hold it to the muzzle when pushing the cleaning rod in and out, helps in not damaging the crown.
Take an end from a squeeze mustard, honey, or catsup bottle- like the red ones from the restaurant. Cut it just right to fit into the bore and over the cleaning rod, hold it to the muzzle when pushing the cleaning rod in and out, helps in not damaging the crown.
