What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
capbuster
Member
stodd, my wifey tells me ,that with her special computer skills sending you a picture is not a problem. I will get back to you.
oldreloader
Member
I'd like to see that primer deflector too.
mstreddy
Member
I'd like a picture of this as well -- please.
45crittergitter
Member
I used a Dremel on the primer exit port of my RCBS ram to smooth the way into the bottom of the black cup, instead of deflecting primers all over the room.
I got tired of screwing the lid down on my Lyman case tumbler. I went and stole a spring loaded clothspin from my wifes laundry bag. Now when I put the cover on the tumbler I just clip the clothspin in place of the nut and thats it, no more screw down. It works great and its realy quick. Try it I think you'll like it.
mstreddy
Member
Hello all. Some really great tips and info here.
Here's my idea on storage for ammo, mags, etc... Some years ago an office was throwing out 2 4-drawer lateral file cabinets, a little dirty looking but otherwise functional. I picked them up and brought them home. They cleaned up fine and were in good mechanical condition. Gave one to a friend or family member (should have kept it). This has served as my ammo cabinet since -- let me tell you those are some pretty heavy duty drawers - I have 3 filled with ammo and the top one with my sorted magazines. They open just fine even under some serious weight! Look around at maybe city/county or corporate type disposal sales -- they should be going cheap, or if you get lucky -- Free!
I'll also jump in on the military ammo cans -- they really are great for ammo! Imagine that, using them for the intended purpose? Also good small toolboxes, etc... I have a fair number of them and built a custom sized shelf unit for them, that way maximized space without dead space on sides or top. Simple (cheap) pine boards, I'll have to snap a pic of it sometime.
EM
Here's my idea on storage for ammo, mags, etc... Some years ago an office was throwing out 2 4-drawer lateral file cabinets, a little dirty looking but otherwise functional. I picked them up and brought them home. They cleaned up fine and were in good mechanical condition. Gave one to a friend or family member (should have kept it). This has served as my ammo cabinet since -- let me tell you those are some pretty heavy duty drawers - I have 3 filled with ammo and the top one with my sorted magazines. They open just fine even under some serious weight! Look around at maybe city/county or corporate type disposal sales -- they should be going cheap, or if you get lucky -- Free!
I'll also jump in on the military ammo cans -- they really are great for ammo! Imagine that, using them for the intended purpose? Also good small toolboxes, etc... I have a fair number of them and built a custom sized shelf unit for them, that way maximized space without dead space on sides or top. Simple (cheap) pine boards, I'll have to snap a pic of it sometime.
EM
Hand Sanitizer
This is the best stuff ever for cleaning off case lube. Of course the active ingrediant is about 65% alcolhol. The inactive ingrediants are Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Fragrance (parfum).
I pretty much do this the same way I lube. I soak a Water Wiz refill pad ($2 from Home Depot) with the hand sanitizer and roll the casings in/on it. I then roll them again on a paper towel. The feel smooth, from the glycerin I suspect, but no longer oily or greasy.
I've NEVER had a jam... but then everything else about my reloads is perfect.
So there you have it, no longer a secret.
This is the best stuff ever for cleaning off case lube. Of course the active ingrediant is about 65% alcolhol. The inactive ingrediants are Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Fragrance (parfum).
I pretty much do this the same way I lube. I soak a Water Wiz refill pad ($2 from Home Depot) with the hand sanitizer and roll the casings in/on it. I then roll them again on a paper towel. The feel smooth, from the glycerin I suspect, but no longer oily or greasy.
I've NEVER had a jam... but then everything else about my reloads is perfect.
So there you have it, no longer a secret.
Innovative
Member
Scope Leveling Tool
I made the simplest tool for leveling the crosshairs on your scope. It's an accurate level mounted on a powerful magnetic plate. Just level your rifle and look through the scope at a hanging string. Then rotate your scope until the verticle crosshair is parallel to the string.
You can also use this level for extreme long range shooting. The magnetic base is strong enough to stay firmly attached to a 300 Win. Mag. sporter.
I made the simplest tool for leveling the crosshairs on your scope. It's an accurate level mounted on a powerful magnetic plate. Just level your rifle and look through the scope at a hanging string. Then rotate your scope until the verticle crosshair is parallel to the string.
You can also use this level for extreme long range shooting. The magnetic base is strong enough to stay firmly attached to a 300 Win. Mag. sporter.
Floppy_D
Member In Memoriam
45crittergetter said:
I thought you weren't supposed to use a dremel to polish feed ramps.
THe Dove
BOOMER SOONER!!!
Where's the pic(s), capbuster?????
The Dove
The Dove
gun guy
Member
a cheap roller chest works as a great catch all for reloading supplies, you can also lock up powder and primers
sniper1259
Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2009
- Messages
- 38
to all; speaking of cheep roller chests, sears had one that was $99.00 a few years back with a bunch of drawers and it bolted on to a cart with 2 more drawers and a large bin in the bottom. it was aimed at the homeowner market but it works great for me. the upper drawer chest has a large one that holds die head assys for the 550B Dillon the big drawer in the bottom section holds the heads for the 650. primer straws fit neatly into the 1.5 inch tall drawers. it all fits!!!! spares, powder and primers in the bottom, its great.
rolls nicely too. had mine for 23 years. and its pad lockable!! its worth a look at....
snipe
rolls nicely too. had mine for 23 years. and its pad lockable!! its worth a look at....
snipe
196scoutmaster
Member
Recycled cartridge holders
I've come to believe reloaders are the ultimate recyclers. We can't throw anything away. Anyway....I'm cleaning out my ammo locker and I find some Remington .30-06 cartridge holders (Pic #1). I was about to toss them when...voila..I can use them on my bench. I reload both pistol and rifle by hand (single stage press). I'm pretty persnickity about my tasks - lube, resize/deprime, clean, inspect, trim, chamfer, clean primer pocket...blah, blah, blah. I use Frankford Arsenal shell holders - work great for neck up but I want to see the primer end at times during my process - have I cleaned it? Are all the primers set properly after priming, etc. .30-06 brass don't always sit perfectly when set on the neck in an FA holder. I shoot my Garand in CMP matches so I reload 50-60 rounds at a time. I duct-taped three cartridge holders together at the sides (giving me a 60 round "block") and lightly set the brass into the holder (Pic #2). When done cleaning the pocket or priming I have a good, accessible view of my work. (Pic #3).
I'm including Pic #4 more for the dark humor side...storing my .45 brass in an Animal Crackers plastic jug. Its the 4# size - you can get them at Sam's or Costco. The cookies are great with milk and you can store about 2000 pcs of brass in them.
I've come to believe reloaders are the ultimate recyclers. We can't throw anything away. Anyway....I'm cleaning out my ammo locker and I find some Remington .30-06 cartridge holders (Pic #1). I was about to toss them when...voila..I can use them on my bench. I reload both pistol and rifle by hand (single stage press). I'm pretty persnickity about my tasks - lube, resize/deprime, clean, inspect, trim, chamfer, clean primer pocket...blah, blah, blah. I use Frankford Arsenal shell holders - work great for neck up but I want to see the primer end at times during my process - have I cleaned it? Are all the primers set properly after priming, etc. .30-06 brass don't always sit perfectly when set on the neck in an FA holder. I shoot my Garand in CMP matches so I reload 50-60 rounds at a time. I duct-taped three cartridge holders together at the sides (giving me a 60 round "block") and lightly set the brass into the holder (Pic #2). When done cleaning the pocket or priming I have a good, accessible view of my work. (Pic #3).
I'm including Pic #4 more for the dark humor side
...storing my .45 brass in an Animal Crackers plastic jug. Its the 4# size - you can get them at Sam's or Costco. The cookies are great with milk and you can store about 2000 pcs of brass in them.Attachments
jaybirdjtski
Member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2009
- Messages
- 35
Ok, so I'm cheap and don't like to throw away brass. For military brass with crimps in the primer pocket, you will be able to resize and deprime but the problem comes in when trying to seat a new primer...unless you get rid of the crimp in the primer pocket. There are expensive (to me, anyway) tools for this. I found that my Wilson deburring/chamfering tool, (hand held and maybe $12 these days), works fine for this task. This tool is typically used for deburring and chamfering the case mouth on new cases or when you trim a case to length. It works for me on both sizes of pockets.
medalguy
Member
I use an RCBS Universal depriming die in my Rockchucker press to deprime military brass. The depriming pin comes with a small spring behind it, causing the depriming pin to be pushed back against the spring before it rebounds when pushing the primer out. With the release of the spring that's behind the primer punch pin, the spent primers were always bouncing off the bottom of the press and flying all over the room. I simply removed the spring and tossed it away. Problem solved-- the primers now neatly drop into the spent primer tray mounted on the press.
Sawblade
Member
ReloaderEd
Member
Reloading Idea hood over lead pot
I have cast a lot of bullets in my life so my wife has alway worried about me breathing the fumes. I have a well ventilated garage but decided a hood would definitely be better So I build one over my lead pot which anyone can do using a bathroom vent fan mounted on an old cake pan. It works very well, can easily be vented outside or into a water bucket. I submitted this idea to Lee and he delined interest oh well.
http://yfrog.com/n7leadmeltingfluxinghood0j
I have cast a lot of bullets in my life so my wife has alway worried about me breathing the fumes. I have a well ventilated garage but decided a hood would definitely be better So I build one over my lead pot which anyone can do using a bathroom vent fan mounted on an old cake pan. It works very well, can easily be vented outside or into a water bucket. I submitted this idea to Lee and he delined interest oh well.
http://yfrog.com/n7leadmeltingfluxinghood0j
bomb dropper
Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2009
- Messages
- 134
A few of my experiences have made me come up with these "fixes"
1) a used primer cardboard package the large square ones unfolded and taped inside of the rcbs spent primer cup will cut down on flying primers
2) for .mil brass I deprime, resize and then chuck up a 3/8 drill bit that has a little steeper grind and just set the primer on the running bit and it will cut the old crimp out. I can do 100 in just a couple mins
I'm sure there's more but those are my two best
1) a used primer cardboard package the large square ones unfolded and taped inside of the rcbs spent primer cup will cut down on flying primers
2) for .mil brass I deprime, resize and then chuck up a 3/8 drill bit that has a little steeper grind and just set the primer on the running bit and it will cut the old crimp out. I can do 100 in just a couple mins
I'm sure there's more but those are my two best
TooTaxed
Member
Bombdropper, you have a misprint on your bit size...I'm not near any cases to check, but I assume you meant 1/8 rather than 3/8"?
bomb dropper
Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2009
- Messages
- 134
No it doesn't go inside of the primer hole. It's almost like using a chanfer tool but just in a drill. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow
1SOW
Member
Eliminate Static Permanently
I have an electronics background; so when 'static' became a problem with my plastic powder hopper, I installed a simple static eliminator.
Parts List: 1. A 1Meg 1/4-watt resistor (less than 50 cents)
2. Enough light stranded wire (18-20 gage/thin speaker wire is ok) to reach
from your press to a grounded outlet. (scrounge or $2)
3. A round terminal end big enough to fit your press mounting bolt
4. A short length of shrink tubing or some electrical tape to insulate a
solder joint. (Scrounge or $2)
Instructions: Solder the 1 Meg resistor to one end of the wire and insulate from the
solder joint to the resistor.
Put the terminal end on the other end of the wire.
Remove one of your press mounting bolts and reinstall it with the terminal
end under the bolt head like a washer.
Route the wire to the grounded outlet using staples or tape.
TURN OFF THE POWER (cicuit breaker) to the outlet.
Remove the outlet cover
Attach the free end of the resistor to ground. (Either under the green
screw inside the outlet box or inside the wire nut over the "Ground" wire
which goes to the "round" ground hole in the outlet).
This list makes it sound like a job, but we're talking less than 30 mins.
I have never had ANY static build up since installing this simple circuit. Powder does not stick the plastic hopper-ever.
I have an electronics background; so when 'static' became a problem with my plastic powder hopper, I installed a simple static eliminator.
Parts List: 1. A 1Meg 1/4-watt resistor (less than 50 cents)
2. Enough light stranded wire (18-20 gage/thin speaker wire is ok) to reach
from your press to a grounded outlet. (scrounge or $2)
3. A round terminal end big enough to fit your press mounting bolt
4. A short length of shrink tubing or some electrical tape to insulate a
solder joint. (Scrounge or $2)
Instructions: Solder the 1 Meg resistor to one end of the wire and insulate from the
solder joint to the resistor.
Put the terminal end on the other end of the wire.
Remove one of your press mounting bolts and reinstall it with the terminal
end under the bolt head like a washer.
Route the wire to the grounded outlet using staples or tape.
TURN OFF THE POWER (cicuit breaker) to the outlet.
Remove the outlet cover
Attach the free end of the resistor to ground. (Either under the green
screw inside the outlet box or inside the wire nut over the "Ground" wire
which goes to the "round" ground hole in the outlet).
This list makes it sound like a job, but we're talking less than 30 mins.
I have never had ANY static build up since installing this simple circuit. Powder does not stick the plastic hopper-ever.
