What Components Are Most Important For A $1000 1911

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BigMike66

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Long time reader, first time poster.

I'm looking to purchase my first 1911. It's very easy to be overwhelmed with the quantity of 1911s available, especially for someone who has limited gun experience, as compared to the majority of members at THR. Example, the well known "K" brand has 62 + models!

I've determined that a budget on my first 1911 purchase will be approx. $1000. I know this amount is the lower end for 1991s, but I plan on additional gun purchases in the near future and cannot afford multiple $2000 handguns.

I'm considering that my decision be based on the components that make the package. A few examples would be match grade steel barrel or stainless steel, the frame and slide of aluminum or stainless.

I intend on carrying this 1911.

How would you go about making a first 1911 purchase in this price range?

TIA,

Mike
 
If it was just a little bit higher on the price range (1200-1400), I'd do what I did for my first, which was find a nice used Les Baer. With that range, I don't have too much experience with the kimbers, but a friend has several and likes them as long as it has an internal extractor. Find one with the features and size you want and you should be fine. I've had trouble with my springfield as has one of my other friends.
 
With me, Kimber stepped up to the plate three times, and struck out each time. Mine all pre-dated the internal firing pin lock and external extractor, so they did not have that excuse. First of all, none would work with their own magazines. The two Classic Customs would not feed with Wilson magazines, and would not lock open on an empty mag. I replaced the slide stops, and after experimentation, learned to use only 7-round Metalform magazines with steel followers, and stock Colt 7-round magazines. Not too bad, I guess, but more finicky than I really like in my duty pistols, which they were, from 1997 to 2002. I later bought a Stainless Gold Match, which is outside the price range under discussion here, so I won't go into details, but it was an absolute lemon.
 
You can get a ton of gun for $1,000.

Springfield Loaded with Novak night-sights.

Rock Island Armory Tactical with Novak night-sights, new trigger, mag-well, etc.
 
If you were to get a bare bones 1991A1 Colt and have EGW fit a bushing, you'd be well ahead of the game already. Most people do sights, hammer, trigger, and a replacement magazine well, perhaps the MSH, as well.

http://www.egw-guns.com/
 
$1k is a lot of money for a pistol and you should be able to really get something nice for that price.

Honestly, though, what I would do is buy a Dan Wesson and then spend the rest of the money on ammo.
 
the most important is sights, trigger and 100% reliability.

other things that i look for are accuracy, extended thumb safety, and good grips.

i have a sa mc operator and it can be had right around 1k.
 
For a grand I would expect no less than a perfectly machine exterior , no blems at all on the frame and slide .

I would expect the slide when slowly hand cycled to cycle very smooth without any bumps or hesitations due to any internal burrs on the slide or frame .

I would also expect a fairly good trigger pull in the 5# range that isn't gritty as hell .

Lastly when I test fired it I would bench it with factory ammo and a rest and it had better be able to keep all of it's shots in the 8 ring at 25 yards .

I got all of this from a $380 Charles Daly so I would certainly expect it from a gun costing almost 3 times as much especialy if it is American made .
 
...sorry, I reread the title again and here is my answer.

Any well fit 1911 would be EVEN BETTER with these new items:

1) Wolff Springs throughout pistol,
2) gunsmith fitted barrel bushing
3) gunsmith fitted trigger components
4) gunsmith tuned/fitted extractor
5) turned/tested magazines
6) sights if you so desire

Reliability first, accuracy second, everything else is just fluff.
 
The most simplified means to sum-up what you need, is to say: 1) forged steel, 2) as few MIM parts as possible, and 3) will fact-firm will run right out of the box with no break-in.

Colt!

Stainless Colt Series 70 Reproduction is hand-fit in the Colt Custom Shop: $750.00
(Has about 3 MIM parts)

Kimber Gold Combat is hand-fit in the Kimber Custom Shop: $1,700.00
(Has about 8 MIM parts)

How dumb can I be?! I forgot to add $300.00 for 500 rounds of .45 ACP to break-in that Kimber.
 
I'm with takhtakaal - go with a bare bones Colt and have a bushing fitted, the newer Colt barrels shoot very well!

My NRM Colt Commander came alive after a fitted Ed Brown bushing (swapped in short trigger and arched MSH; stock sights, sloppy factory trigger and sloppy slide to frame fit)

dsc02110.jpg


Since this is your first 1911, spend the next 6 months or so on the range getting used to her and see what you like/don't like, and then start changing things out (gives you a little bit of time to set money aside for changes you may make).

best of luck in your 1911 quest ;)
 
Yeah!!! Love that Colt!!! I just bought exactly that same model as well last week. It's a nice shooter.

Hey..great picture!

Doc2005
 
a vote for kimber

i own two, a 3" and a full size. Both have been flawless (ok, ok, after break-in on the 3") and for LESS than a grand, you can buy the stainless Custom II. great fit, very accurate. as always, just my $.02.
 
$1k is a lot of money for a pistol and you should be able to really get something xxxx reliable for that price.
Click to expand...

At $1000, nice is not enough. Anything reasonably expected to be reliable out of the box is a start. Nice, pretty, fancy, custom fit, or similar adjectives should not come first.

I've heard some good things about SA Milspec 1911s. Add a bunch of custom fit things and the price goes above the limit.
 
PRICE is by far not the most imortant. There are those that think you cannot get reliability for under 1k. Not true.
#1 Reliability. To be proven after the purchase if everytime you pull the trigger it goes bang w/o malfunction. I don't care if it is a 200.00 or 2000.00 dollar gun. Reliability not longevity is #1

#2. Sights/accuracy. You gotta be able to see the sights and hit what you are aiming at. An inexpensive accurate gun with good aftermarket sights (if required) could be an excellent firearm. It does not have to be a Wilson combat, nighthawk custom or les bear to be accurate by SD standards.

#3. Trigger. Kind of goes hand in hand w/ #2. Hard to be a consistantly good shot w/ a bad heavy, gritty trigger.

Personally a 700 dollar entry level smith,kimber,SA with some aftermarket accesories are some of the best and most reliable shooters out there.
 
For $1000 I would look at a STI Trojan.

Don't buy Wolf springs, use ISMI. Wolf springs wear out fast.

What's important
Slide, Frame and Barrel fit
Crisp Trigger
Good Sights
 
The most simplified means to sum-up what you need, is to say: 1) forged steel, 2) as few MIM parts as possible, and 3) will fact-firm will run right out of the box with no break-in.

Colt!

Stainless Colt Series 70 Reproduction is hand-fit in the Colt Custom Shop: $750.00
(Has about 3 MIM parts)
Click to expand...

+1 on the Colt

If this is your first 1911 buy a quality pistol with a forged frame, slide and barrel. Shoot it for six months and then decide what you need based upon your experience, not what works for someone else.

If after six months you find a 1911 is not for you, the Colt will have a better resell.
 
weisse52 is right on a few counts, the most important being that you'll never get the money back out of your modifications if you go to sell and they're permanent. I'd say, too, shoot it fairly plain Jane for a bit and then think about tooting it up with gunsmith-added extras. If you were already sure on the 1911, there are plenty of packages that already have the bits and pieces added in, at various price points, depending upon the quality of the add-ons and the original base frame.
 
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