What do I need to know about reloading for an AR15?

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I load for 308 and 223 ARs. I’ve only been doing it for about a year though. I use basic Lee dies. Budget dies for budget rifles (PSA PA15 and PA10). I don’t know if they are small base but I think if they were they would be labeled as such, which they are not.

I crimp every round save one, which is my 175 grain 308 Sierra HPBT load. I use the lightest crimp recommended on the Lee Factory Crimp Die. I ran a dummy round of the 175 SMK through the action a few times and measured an average of 0.001” movement longer per cycle so at least I don’t get setback.

For the time being I use whatever primers I can find which have been Winchester WLR, CCI #34, CCI 400, and CCI BR4. I have some CCI #41 but haven’t used them. I do make sure to remove any possible primer crimp from basically all 223 & 5.56 brass, as well as 7.62 x 51 NATO for use in the 308 rifle.

I’ve tried the common powders like TAC, H335, CFE 223, and IMR 4064. TAC has a slight edge over H335 in my rifles but that can reverse with any given bullet. IMR 4064 is the most consistently accurate in both calibers but it’s basically a tie with CFE 223. Both produced sub MOA loads in 223 and 308, I just haven’t used the CFE 223 in as many 308 loads. IMR 4064 doesn’t produce top velocity in 223 but basically is a draw again between the two in 308. I generally stay with 223 specs and don’t try 5.56 much if at all. I also stay on the lower half of the load range for 308 if possible.

I typically use either 55ish or 75ish grain bullets for 223 and 168 to 180 grains for 308. I haven’t tried the lighter ones in 308 and my 223s don’t seem to like mid-range 223 bullets. I typically seat to 2.200 or 2.255” for 223 depending on weight, and 2.8” for 308. I haven’t tinkered in this area much yet.

Overall it’s been loads of fun and I haven’t had any cycling issues except in my 308 with CFE 223. It seems to require me to dial down the gas block a little more.
 
I have no idea what a small base die is other than...it has a small base? Why should I get one with a small base? What do you guys recommend?
Neck tension? How the heck do I do that? Why? Again, any recommendations?
!!

Small base dies do full length sizing of cases. They size the base of the case at the head a smidge smaller than standard dies. Tolerances are a bit tighter for the base of the small base dies.

Some manufactures like Dillon and Lee, I believe, say their standard 223 Rem dies are made to small base specs.

If you do not have dies, there is no downside to buying small base dies.

Many folks never have chambering issues with their AR-15 ammunition made with standard sizing dies.

Generally, the chamber issues are caused by an accumulation of tolerances between chambers of a couple AR-15s and the sizing die. I have an AR-15 and a sizing die that produces ammunition that would not chamber in two other AR-15’s.

Another note, many case gauges measure shoulder position and overall length. They are cut generously in the body area. Sheridan case gauges are cut to minimum SAAMI dimmentions.

For neck tension, the expander ball in the sizer die should be .003” or so smaller than the bullet diameter.

A simple test is to take a loaded round and push the bullet against something and try to get the bullet to move. If the bullet moves easily, neck tension is too low. You can try it with a factory round to “calibrate” yourself. It is not a precise measurement but helpful.

Sierra Bullets has good info on loading for a semi-auto rifle. Do an internet search and you should be able to find it.

Edit, here is the link to Sierra Bullets info on loading for semi-auto rifles.
https://www.sierrabullets.com/reload-basics/reloading-for-semi-autos-and-service-rifles/
 
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Are the Lee dies marked that way and I just missed it or is it just the way they are to cause less issues for a wider audience? Either way I’ve had no issues in either caliber.
 
Are the Lee dies marked that way and I just missed it or is it just the way they are to cause less issues for a wider audience? Either way I’ve had no issues in either caliber.

No, Lee dies are not specifically marked as "small base" dies or something similar. Their web site says the dies size the cases back to "new factory dimensions". See the following links.
https://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/rifle-dies/
https://leeprecision.com/ultimate-rifle-die-set/

Here is what Dillon says about their rifle sizing dies.
https://www.dillonprecision.com/steel-rifle-dies-individual-and-three-die-sets_8_4_24494.html
 
H335, BL-C(2), TAC, anything in that burn range should work well enough.

There are a miraid of powders that work these are a few I look at shooters refrence, a Dada base of manufactures load data, for nato data as well as 223data just to confirm or try different powders. I've used hodgen, imr 4895, blc2 as well as tac in AR and bolt guns with a bullets from 50 to 68 gr. My AR and bolt gun both like hornandy 62 gr hpbt over tac the best, so far, that is.

I was going to comment, but I think your already well covered. I like AA2230 for the AR.

Friend and new liader bought as 2230 ,tac and has loaded quite a few 62 gr fmj and 62 hpbt's. So far no co.plaints from either of us
 
That’s a nice looking AR! Lots of good advice so far. There’s opinions on the primers, CCI41 are military spec, with a harder cup to prevent a slam fire, but they are still SR. I haven’t had a slam fire yet with regular CCI 400, perhaps I’m fortunate. At this time, I think you’ll probably use whatever you can get.
RMR has really good deals on bullets and they have one they make in house. They were running a special where you buy 5K and get 500 free, don’t know if that’s still in effect or not but check them out. Good luck.
 
Loading for AR-15’s is exceptionally tricky.

I mean, you have to get hundreds, maybe thousands of little kernels of black stuff into this tiny little hole, oh, but be sure you put this silver cap thing in the bottom of the case first, otherwise some of the kernels might leak out, and then you have to plug the top hole, where you put the power into, with this tiny little plug...........................................................................................................
 
......as for loading them to go exactly where you want, that is a rabbithole you could spend a lot of time in. ;)

I've used (in order of preference) BL-C(2), Varget, Power Pro Varmint, 2230, IMR 3031, CFE223, and IMR 4064. 55, 60 and 62 gr. bullets. Never had a 4MOA load out of any of them, most are 1.5-2, my pet load is just over 1.
 
If you are going to be reloading your 5.56 brass your will need a way to swag or ream the crimped primer pockets. It will give you the biggest headache you have ever had if you don't, besides it will waste your primers.
 
I find loading .223 to be a PITA, so much so that I have avoided doing it as long as I can source 5.56 brass cased ammo at a reasonable price. I’m almost through my stash though so I may need to get some Valium and start sizing/brass prep again. :fire:
 
Well I went to my nearest range up in the mountains here and tried out my new AR15 (Stag-15), Kimber 1911 .45ACP and my new hydraulic shooting rest.
I didn't spend much time shooting as it was too dang cold for these old bones and I'm waaaay too outta shape to be walking up hill (both wayso_O)
100 yards at 9000ft!!!
Everything seemed to work fine. The scope I put on the AR (cheap Walmart) malfunctioned so I didn't bother zeroing out the rifle. I got another cheap scope I'll try. I got a Vortex red dot but haven't tried it out yet.
The Kimber 1911 did great!!! Hit junk out to 50 yards with no problem. Sights seem to be spot on!
The hydraulic shooting rest is cool to watch work but it needs to be used on a much more stable platform than a folding picnic table.
I'll be heading out to my brother-in-law's ranch Sunday and will probably be sending a few hundred seeds of freedom down range and will have a more detailed report to post.
 
I load 223 on a single stage and enjoy it as I too have the time to enjoy it. I use a universal deprimer on all my cases, then wet tumble them. Next up is lubing them and resizing them all, then swage, trim, chamfer, debur and dry tumble them all. Lastly they get primed and stored till time to load. The swaging is done with an RCBS setup for a single stage. The trim/chamfer/debur is now done with a new Lee die powered by a cordless drill(definitely look into one of these).

If you get Lee dies you also get a shell holder with it, most others(if not all) don’t.

https://leeprecision.com/deluxe-power-quick-trim.html

https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/accessories/primer-pocket-swager-combo-2/16-9481.html
 
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