What exact model is this revolver and how much is it worth?

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EnderWiggin

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Can anyone tell me what model S&W revolver this is and if it is worth anything? I believe it was purchased in the 1950's.

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Thanks in advance.
 
Four or five screw Model 10 S&W that has been re-barreled. The markings on the frame aren't right though and it can be a replica from Spain. Also incorrect for S&W is the ejector rod. The knob on the end isn't knurled.
 
It may be a wartime Victory Model/British Service Revolver that has had the barrel cut down and has been refinished. The side plate appears to be a replacement part or the frame has been heavily buffed before rebluing.
If the serial number on the butt is between 665000 and 999999 or V1 to V7650000 then it is a wartime production gun. The British Service Revolver was chambered in .38 S&W caliber, not .38 S&W Special. After WWII a lot of these guns were sold in the USA, with the barrel cut down and the cylinders bored out to accept .38 Special. Often they were refinished in Nickel and fitted with fake stag horn grips. Cutting down the barrel removes the front locking lug for the ejector rod and the .38 S&W chambers were wider than the .38 Special case, so the converted guns are prone to bulged or split brass.
If it is a converted gun don't shoot Plus P in it, and value would be around $150 or so. If a Spanish copy don't shoot it at all and value is as a curio only.
 
The issue with S&W revolvers is that the cylinder turns counter-clockwise, which means that the hand that rotates the cylinder is tending to push the crane/cylinder OUT of the frame. Hence S&W's require a front locking lug for the ejector rod.

Note also that certain S&W revolvers had a THIRD lock for the crane at the front of the frame, so they are known as "triple-locks".

But a S&W revolver with only one lock for the cylinder is mechanically suspect.
 
I'm almost thinking it's a Spanish fake. Otherwise what's with the single "S" along with the last four digits of the serial on the frame under where the crane sits? Or would war time guns not have the usual model information stamped there? And is it just me or does the S&W logo seem to be a little too small?

I only learned last week sometime, thanks to THR, that there were even any Spanish counterfeits at all and here I am thinking I spotted one.... :D

On the other hand it WOULD explain the "S", the seemingly small S&W cartouche and the lack of knurling on the end of the ejector.

One other thing, If it were a real S&W the center of the ejector knob would push out when the cylinder release toggle is pushed forward.
 
An S stamp under the crane or on the crane is not unknown, my early 70s Model 66 has the same font on the inside of the crane, but not on the frame. I wish I knew what it stood for.
A small S&W trademark was used on the left side of early guns, all the sideplate pics I have seen use the large trademark, so you may be right, it may be a poor copy of a bubbaed wartime S&W.

EnderWiggin:
tpelle is correct about it being mechanically suspect, I had a small J frame .357 magnum that I replaced the barrel on with a custom four inch barrel with no locking lug. 5 rounds of Plus P .38 special sprung the crane. Don't shoot PlusP in this gun.
 
BC/Rad: I'm with you.

OP a good Pic of the serial number on the butt as well as the right side forward of the trigger where the MADE IN U.S.A. should be. (I ran it up to 400% and I can't make the print). Logo size?

I have to admit at a glance its a whacked Victory. Starring at it??????
 
It is an S&W. When those pre-Victory and Victory revolvers were sold off as surplus, many had the barrel shortened and were sold as "detective" revolvers. Of course that did away with the front lock, but what do you expect for $29.95?

IIRC, the S indicates that the gun had been altered for the new style hammer block. Those originally made for the new type had the S on the butt.

Jim
 
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