What is Involved in Reloading for the 10 ga?

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Kestrel

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I've never reloaded anything (rifle, pistol nor shotgun). I don't have any reloading equipment at all. Now I'm wondering about reloading 10 ga, for waterfowl. I'm just in the tire-kicking stage.

Can someone tell me the low-down on what it takes to reload for the 10? I'm assuming 10 ga. plastic hulls, wads, powder of some sort, primers and shot. What equipment would I need and approximately how much is each component? Is reloading shotshells pretty straightforward and easy?

I've read that factory loaded 10ga. is a good bit less in power than what 10ga. can be loaded to, so it sounds like to get the most out of the 10, you need to reload. If I need to be straightened out on this, I'm all ears.

Thanks for any help.
 
http://www.chuckhawks.com/reloading_shotshell.htm

Reloading shot shells is relatively easy. Just like any reloading, you have to use common sense and be careful. I reload 12, 20, and .410 but never had a 10 ga. I would estimate that you will spend between $200 and $300 getting set up. The first thing would be to visit your local library and check out some books on reloading for shotgun. Once you understand the process, get a good reloading manual for shotgun. They usually also have a good bit of information on how to do it safely. Then it is on to the purchase of equipment and components. Follow the recipes in the manual exactly, don't make substitutions since you don't know what effect that will have on the final product. I end up enjoying the reloading nearly as much as the shooting.
 
Get a copy of Lyman's 4th Edition Shotshell Reloading Manual, can be found in bookstores, Sporting Goods or gun shop (if they carry reloading equipment) or on e-bay/Amazon, etc. While we're waiting for the 5th Edition (Coming Soon). It's still a great place to start.

Also check out www.reload-nrma.com Good Info and good links to powder and equipment manufacturer's along with a great link to find NRA trained reloading instructors near you. I highly recommend finding a good teacher, you can do it on your own, but I prefer to learn from other peoples mistakes rather making my own, especially when it comes to things that can and do go KA-BOOM. :D

The powder manufacturers will also send you free recipe booklets and/or you can download them from their websites. Follow recipes exactly, don't substitute components, get a good scale, use it frequently while reloading.

As far as equipment, well that will start the whole Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge, Remington vs Winchester vs Mossberg, et al debate. But it really depends on how much you plan to reload. I've got a progressive machine because I shoot alot, my daughter on the other hand has a Lee Load-All II for 20 ga. that I got for $15 (NIB) at a gun show which works great for her 75-100 rounds per week that she shoots. Both actitivities are Quality Family Time.

Also good info at http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=13 but don't use someone else's recipes, only use recipes from SAAMI manufacturers or reloading manuals.

And yep, reloading is as much fun as shooting.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll read through the links. (Shotgunworld seems to be down at the moment.)

Can anyone tell me an approximate cost difference in what is costs to load/reload a 10ga shell vs. the price of a new loaded shell? I'm not considering this for the 10 as a cost savings primarily, but for increased performace from the shell, but am interested in the differences.

Thanks again.
 
for increased performace from the shell
Dude, the only thing that needs to be increased for better performance from 10 gauge is the shoulder of the guy holding it! What more do you want? More recoil? Louder report? A three foot tongue of flame?! :what:
 
Bigger blast radius.

Just kidding.

The reason I'm asking is, I've read some posts on ShotgunWorld that factory 10ga ammo isn't much better than factory 3.5" 12ga, in steel shot. The posters were stating that 3.5" 12ga is where the manufacturers are focusing their efforts. They indicated that factory 10ga steel shot was not loaded to it's potential, like 12ga is. Just about every poster said they loaded their own, for the best steel shot performance in the 10.

Now, if they are all wrong and I'm just wasting my time, I'm open to that, too. My interest is in the pattern density advantage of the 10, over the 3.5" 12 steel loads, as well as increased fps of the shot.

Are these folks wrong?

Thanks
 
I'll bet that when you compare a factory load with a reload (regardless of who made it), the duck/goose/waterfowl on the other end won't know the difference. Also, I have seen people load for a little more velocity but then destroy the pattern density. I reload shotgun since it saves me some $$ which then allows me to shoot more. And I just plain like squeezing them out, sort of like red sausages.
 
Yep, and to quote Mr McC (and others). "You don't save money reloading, you just get to shoot more for the same amount of money."


I do it because I can tailor my loads for my gun and the task at hand. Plus shoot more !!!


And I just plain like squeezing them out, sort of like red sausages.

My sauages are blue !!! :D :D

(I prefer to load Peters Blue Magic's, followed closely by STS's/Nitro's/Gun Club's. I use the Remington Black Hulls for hunting loads.)

Too many squished AA's once they went from the unibody to the two piece hull. (Doesn't stop me from picking them up at the range though....... I probably got about 3 White Flyer boxes of once fired AA Hulls.


Now Back to the Topic.

Steve what you'll find is that you can make a load that matches your gun and your hunting/shooting style by rolling your own as opposed to buying off the shelf.
 
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As far as the 12ga 3.5" shells being lots better than a 10ga 3.5" shell I don't see it myself. You have a longer narrower shot string compared to a 10 ga shorter denser shot string. I am not saying that you can't wring better performance from a good reload in either the 12 or 10 gauge, it can be done. But unless you are going to shoot at least a case of ammo a season I don't see where loading for the 10 ga is gonna help.

I reload for 12, 20, 28, and .410, as well as about 30 rifle and pistol cartidges. I also have a 10ga that sets in the safe most of the time unless I go goose hunting. I don't waterfowl hunt enough to make a 10ga loader a priority.
 
Huh?

I reload for my 10ga's, Brn. Gold & Gold lite, BPS, italian O/U, and a spanish (american arms) SxS. I use a Ponsness/warren 375c or a MEC single stage. The reason a 12 3.5" is about equal to a 10 ( also 3.5" ) is the fact that the 12 is made for a much higher operating pressure than the "modern" 10ga 3.5". I have a parker made in 1876 that uses 2 7/8" shells- blackpowder, naturally. I started reloading steelshot ( and hevi & bismuth ) to try and get some decent waterfowl loads- about the same time I was trying to get some 12ga dove loads with steelshot because I hunt in a wetlands area and must use non toxic for anything. At the time the factory stuff available was crappy, so I got the stuff and went to town. You can get great patterns from a 1550 fps 1 3/8oz 10ga load- I get the geese,when I get close enough but that's another story, and have spent countless hours working up loads from published recipes. Reloading magnum loads can get a fella injured, and not just from the recoil. The single most important part of the process is to achieve proper crimp depth, too deep causes a major pressure spike ( read deadly ). Ballistic Products,Precision Reloading, and Reloading Specialties all have web sites- but watch out for Precision Reloading on their shipping cost- make you upset :banghead: Most of the "regular supply houses carry everything you might need- Graf's comes to mind as a reasonable place. You WON'T save any money rolling your own- factory ;loads run around 75 cents per- reloads can cost more like 80 is you don't purchase wisely. Reloaders like the P/W will set you back around $325 new, $200+ on ebay. They are good ones that will last awhile.
 
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