What is the smallest sign of too many reloads: .303.

[Ignition Override]

Have been reloading a total of one year, just this caliber. Recently noticed possible stress indications, and have only neck-sized on simple, slow Lee gear.

1) There are very tiny ridges (almost invisible), right by the rim of several, which barely snag a careful, slow sharp fingernail 'scratch' moving down from the rim.

2) On several others, the shiny area has a very thin beige or white stripe. This must be trouble, and I've thrown those out, maybe a dozen.

3) So far there have been no visible cracks or splits.

Therefore, before I throw out some, how would you evaluate these signs?

Some of these are old HXP and some odd types I have not identified (sold to me), but some are newer Prvi, which might have been reloaded six times or more.
Have Only used 150 grain bullets, IMR 4064, 38 grains, no exceptions.

 

[FROGO207]

Take a paper clip or piece of wire of similar size and bend a small right angle in the end. make sure it will fit in the neck of said brass. Lower it down to top of web inside and place bent part on side of case, slide up and feel for an indent. Try on a once fired case to find a good feeling benchmark. If you feel a spot inside that catches just above the web scrap the brass as head is starting to separate. You can sometimes also see this as a ring that looks different on the outside of brass just above the web area but not always like feeling inside with the wire will show.

 

[James2]

If they are thinning at top of the web, you can sometimes see a ring that looks odd about 1/8 inch above the rim. That is where they will separtate if the head decides to come off. I have never had one come completely off, but sometimes I have had cracks develop and gas shoot out.

I figure if I get six loadings on rifle brass, it doesn't owe me anything.

 

[Ignition Override]

Thanks very much. Those tiny, very light stripes are closer to these rims.

The various indicators are with many of the older cases, which look like they must be of military origin. I should have marked them when I first reloaded them, and some have prob. been used about four times.

On many of the questionable types, you can barely see and feel one more thing just above the rim:
you feel a very slight tapering inwards, which once-fired cases don't have. It feels like the start of a very gradual hump, but you barely see it.

Am now marking once-used Prvi brass with tiny fingernail polish stripes, to count the reuse number.

 

[Walkalong]

A slight "ridge" on the outside near the web from expansion in the chamber is normal with some brass in some chambers. (Right where the solid head and case wall meet) Sometimes it is confused with the signs of impending case head separation. Check inside the cases.

 

[JimKirk]

Walkalone has the proper method/visual to find separating brass. Sometimes a sizing die will leave a ring around the outside of the brass where it stops sizing. Don't confuse this mark with the separating marks. The die marks mean nothing, the other is a "not good" waiting to happen.

Jimmy K

 

[243winxb]

The shiny ring can be in the body or in the web area. The case stretches on firing, causing brass to thin. As your neck sizing, (a good thing) this keeps stretching to a minimum. When firing new factory ammo in a rifle with excessive headspace, the brass can be damaged from that one firing.

 

[JimKirk]

Excellant example photo... showing the separation lines and right below you can also see the sizing die line.
Jimmy K

 

[A Historian]

If they are thinning at top of the web, you can sometimes see a ring that looks odd about 1/8 inch above the rim. That is where they will separtate if the head decides to come off. I have never had one come completely off, but sometimes I have had cracks develop and gas shoot out.

I figure if I get six loadings on rifle brass, it doesn't owe me anything.

+1

I've gotten pretty good at spotting incipient case-head separation. I wish I could remember the brass brand I used that had cracked on the second firing, and some were even complete separations. Either way, I stick to Winchester now, and I'm happy when I get six loadings. I've yet to try my hand at annealing, though, along with some other options, so I think I might be able to expand their case-life yet. I haven't been too worried since I've bumped into people who were proud of getting four firings from their brass.

As for the tiny ridges... Not sure what to say. I'll have to check my brass for those, just to see...

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

38 gr. IMR4064 with a 150 is a mild load. With a decent chamber and neck size only 6 reloads is entirely possible.

I recommend getting a broken shell extractor especially for the .303cause it's just a matter of time before you will need it.

 

[cheygriz]

Walkalong's method is by far the best.

And to extend brass life, use starting loads, not max, and NECK SIZE ONLY!

If you have more than one .303, as I do, keep the brass separate, and only use a particular batch in one rifle.

I use three different colors of nail polish on the primers to keep the reloaded cases separate for my three different rifles.

 

[dagger dog]

The real question is, how excessive is the headspacing on the rifle that your shooting?
Have it checked!

 

[A Historian]

I recommend getting a broken shell extractor especially for the .303cause it's just a matter of time before you will need it.

I let inertia and mother nature do my work for me. A lot cheaper. :\