what makes the CZ P01 and 75B different?

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stzd8

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Besides the outer looks, what else is different on both guns? The P-01 has a shorter barrel and maybe little lighter but is there anything else different from the 75B?

I only have a Walther P99, so I decided to get an all metal gun. I would appreciate your input. Either one, I am getting CZ. But is up to the audience to help me decide which one goes and which one stays.... (Sorry if I sound like those TV shows 'American Idol, ect...).
 
1) The P-01 is a compact version of the full-size gun.

2) Standard hi-caps hold only 13 or 14 rounds (depending on the follower design), as opposed to the 15/16 of the full-size version. The grip is shorter. Full-size mags will work in the gun, but will stick out. Many folks carry a 16-round standard mag on their belt, and a factory 13/14 round mag in the gun.

3) The P-01 has a decocker. It cannot be carried "cocked and locked"; the standard 75B can. (There is a decocker version of the standard CZ, too, called the 75BD.) The P-01 and other decocker versions are carried on the half-cock notch, the place to which it is decocked. All "B" series CZs have a firing pin block, so decocking to the half-cock notch is not a safety issue.

4) The P-01 has an alloy frame; its noticeably lighter than the standard steel frame.

5) The P-01 has an accessory rail, to accomodate tactical lights and similar attachments. It is wider at that end than the standard compact CZ (PCR, or 75 Compact), and will not fit a typical CZ holster.

6) The P-01 has a recurved trigger, which shortens the trigger reach for those with shorter fingers or smaller hands. Not a big deal, but noticeable.

7) There may be slight differences in the sights, but the top ends are othewise the same as the other "compact" CZ; the slide will work on any other 75B-based gun.

8) The P-01 has undergone a rigorous NATO testing regimine. Its a very robust gun. The 75B didn't go that route, but with a steel frame, its probably not necessary.

9) The P-01 has a full-length guide rod. Many P-01 owners convert the plastic guide rod (which works perfectly) to a steel one, because they think it looks better or functions better. There's no question that it looks better.

(There may be other differences... but that's all I can think of, at the moment.)
 
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which one is prone to corrosion the most?

Wow,

Thanks for the in-depth info. I really like to get the full info this one, certainly I would do the same to others. Say which one is more corrosion resitant? Will these guns required lot of oiling ? I had to oil my Beretta stainless once a month to keep parts fluidly moving.

With the Walther not much oil since the frame and bottom rail is plastic.
 
Well CZ makes three different finishes:

Black Polycoat
Blued
Some type of stainless

I have experience with the Black Polycoat and the stainless. The BP is on a 75B SA and the Stainless on a 75B.

The BP is very, very durable and after over a year of daily handling, holstering and reholstering shows ZERO wear or corrosion. Unfortunately the same cannot be said of the grip screws which I've had to scrub the rust off of twice.

The stainless finish seems a bit weird. It doesn't rust, it's still smooth but it has become discolored. Grayish black and blue swirls on and around the front and back straps that I think have resulted from either my sweaty hands (probable) or some sort of reaction with hoppes #9. These swirls aren't exactly ugly and don't bother me at all but they tick off my wife who's gun the stainless finish is on.

I have seen the blued finish and cannot speak to it's durability but I can say that it is IMO not a nice finish. Something about the color, depth, texture etc just rubs me the wrong way.
 
I think that Walt will agree with me that corrosion isn't much of an issue with the polymer finish, at least not on the slide or frame. This stuff is tough, and when applied correctly resists salt spray testing far longer than either hard chrome, electroless nickel, or SS.

It's not paint. It's a two or three-part resin applied over a phosphate base and heat cured. What it might lack aesthetically, it more than makes up for in functional practicality.

Personally, I use a light coating of grease applied with a q-tip on the frame and slide rails. I also put a little where the slide stop pin rides. There are lots of choices, from super-zoot high-tech to plain ol' GI 'red' in the little plastic pot. A drop of oil on the pivot points, barrel lugs, sear and exterior of the muzzle should be pretty much 'it' for lubrication.

Any machine, including your Walther, needs lubrication for good function and long service life. Your manual will give you recommendations as to what and where. Only experience will tell you how often for your uses.

FWIW, I've very seldom had to relube anything in between routine cleanings. The sole notable exception was with unusually extensive firing in the course of training. When you're putting six or seven hundred rounds through it in a day's class, and there's no time for tear-down and cleaning, expect to have to put some extra oil here and there in order to keep things moving.

IMO, no other 'service' sidearm in recent history has been subjected to such a stringent testing regimen and exceeded the specs so completely as the PO1. You'd be hard-pressed to find a more reliable sidearm.
 
I have the 75B and love it Very accurate and easy to shoot I also have a CZ-40P which I believe is based on the P-01 frame. Both are great guns IMHO Walt did a great job breaking it down There is also a CZ Forum you can visit as well
 
+2 on Walt nailing it...

Now I wish I had kept mine...if I could have carried the P01 "cocked and Locked I prolly would still have it..
 
Yes, as usual Walt did a nice job. You may want to also consider the CZ-75 D "PCR". Its similar to the P-01, but does not have the light rail making it slimmer in the muzzle end. Some people, myself included, feel the light rail is not needed. Either way you can't go wrong. Having the 75B and PCR, I now find myself wanting a standard 75 Compact. Don't know why, just think they're cool.
 
WEREWOLF.

CZ is making a new stainless gun, but they're not exporting to the US, yet. What you thought was a stainless-like finish was nickel.

Otherwise its as inidcated: polycoat, high-gloss blue (which is almost as pretty as the old S&W bluing), and a satin nickel finish. I've had all three, but greatly prefer the satin nickel -- which is the most durable of the three.

Polycoat isn't bad, though.
 
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